
cmssTSLL£1_L 

Book*_ 

Copyright If _ 



CGEffilGHT DEPCSm 



CLARK'S 

Weave Room Calculations 

A practical treatise of cotton yarn 

and cloth calculations for the 

weave room, especially 

applicable to 

Southern 

Mills 




By W. A. GRAHAM CLARK 

Textile Expert of United States Tariff Commission 



-^ 



fc* . 



.a 



Copyright 1920 
Clark Publishing Company- 



v ~wi5 



©CU622230 

JUL 27 1921 



PREFACE. 



This book is intended primarily for use in the 
mill, as an aid to those who have to make calcu- 
lations dealing with cotton cloth. It can also be 
used as a text book. 

There is apparently a need for a work of this 
character as there have been few books dealing 
with weave room calculations from the practical 
standpoint and most of these are out of print. 

The first part of this study contains concise 
rules for making cloth calculations and these have 
been grouped to facilitate use. The cloths used 
to illustrate the working out of the rules are 
mainly staple plain fabrics such as occur most 
largely in actual practice. One of the most orig- 
inal features is that dealing with the ascertain- 
ment of the contraction in length of warp and 
filling yarns in the weaving of plain fabrics; in 
addition to rules there has been compiled a table 
that shows the contraction percentages for a wide 
range of combinations of yarn counts and spac- 
ings and this is illustrated graphically. Attention 
is called to this particularly because most textile 
books gloss over this vital phase by intimating 
that it is impossible to formulate practical rules 
for ascertaining the contraction in length of yarns 
during weaving. 

The second part of this book lists over one thou- 
sand typical American cloths and shows full par- 
ticulars including the counts of yarn used in each 
case. These cloths have been carefully selected 
and arranged and this tabulation should prove of 
value alike to cloth manufacturers, cloth dealers, 
and textile students. 



A short chapter is added to show the systems 
used in numbering yarns of different materials, 
and to bring out salient facts as to materials of 
interest to the cotton weaver. The, leading tex- 
tile industries are becoming more and more inter- 
dependent and silk and artificial silk are now so 
largely used in cotton mills that the information 
given as to these materials should prove pertinent. 

In the appendix are to be found tables of the 
usual weights and measures, also metric conver- 
sions for those interested in export trade. 

W. A. GRAHAM CLARK. 

Washington, D. C, July 1, 1920. 



CONTENTS. 



CLOTH CALCULATIONS: Page 

Introduction 11 

Cloth contraction 13 

Cloth regain 17 

Reed calculations 20 

Warp length compared with cloth length 32 

Contraction in weaving plain cloths 36 

Table— Faces 36 

Chart— Faces 37 

Average yarn count 39 

The cloth constant 47 

Construction calculations 53 

Width calculations 56 

Weight calculations 59 

Percentages of warp, filling, and sizing 63 

Selection of yarn counts to make a certain cloth 68 

Grey cloth analysis 73 

Production problems 80 

Table of 100% loom production 90 

Loom speed calculations 98 

TYPICAL AMERICAN CLOTHS: 

Cloths woven of unbleached yarns: 

Duck fabrics: 

Number ducks 111 

Ounce ducks 111 

Tire fabrics 113 

Twills and sateens: 

Grey drills, 3-leaf 114 

Gray jeans, 3-leaf 115 

Wide grey drills, 3-leaf 115 

Grey twills, 3-leaf 116 

Grey twills, 4-leaf_ 116 

Canton flannels 117 

Corset coutils 117 

Alberts (5-leaf lining twills) 118 

Warp sateens 118 

Venetians (mere. 8-harness warp sateens) 119 

Filling sateens 119 

Sheetings (under 28s yarns): 

Grey osnaburgs 120 

Coarse sheetings (14s range) 121 

Coarse sheetings (18s range) 122 



CONTENTS. 

Page 
TYPICAL AMERICAN CLOTHS (Continued): 

Cloths woven of unbleached yarns (cont'd): 

Print cloths (28s to 42s yarns): 

Sheetings (22s range) 123 

Sheetings (26s range) 124 

Wide sheetings 125 

Linoleum fabrics 126 

Narrow cheese cloths 127 

Tobacco cloths 127 

Wide cheese cloths 127 

Narrow print cloths 128 

Wide print cloths 130 

Grey shirtings 131 

Fine plains (yarns averaging above 42s): 

Longcloths 132 

Nainsooks 132 

India linons 133 

Combed lawns 134 

Persian lawns 134 

Voiles 135 

Pajama checks 135 

Cotton blankets 136 

Quilts (Dimity, crochet, Marseilles, satin) 136 

Cloths woven of dyed yarns: 

Denims, coverts, tickings 137 

Coarse stripes, cheviots, siitings, checks and 

plaids 139 

Flannelets, outings, domets 141 

Cretonnes 142 

Table damasks 143 

Ginghams and chambrays 143 

Miscellaneous cloths 145 

TEXTILE MATERIALS AND YARN NUMBERING: 

Introduction 151 

Raw cotton 153 

Cotton yarn 156 

Table of lengths for cotton yarns 157 

Silk (raw, thrown, waste, spun) 160 

Artificial silk and artificial horsehair 166 

APPENDIX: 

Weights and measures 169 

Metric equivalents 170 



CLOTH CALCULATIONS 



CLOTH CALCULATIONS 

INTRODUCTION 



In cloth calculations the basic factors are the 
yarns and their spacing, in other words the warp 
counts, the filling counts, the sley, and the pick. 
The other factors are all based on these. Every 
factor is part of a mathematical equation so that 
no factor can be changed without involving a 
change in one or more other factors in order to 
make the equation balance. The problem is to 
define the nature of the relationship between vari- 
ous factors so that in cloth calculations any un- 
known factor may be readily ascertained from 
its relationship to known factors. 

The study of cloth calculations and the use of 
the most concise rules would be much aided if 
each factor had a standard symbol; for instance 
there is a saving of both time and space in using 
the letter "T" instead of writing out "total threads 
per square inch" or "the sum of the sley and 
pick." It would be well if the cotton trade and 
industry would adopt uniform symbols for the 
main factors that occur in clotji calculations. 
Where possible these should be, for convenience 
in remembering, the first letter of the factor re- 
ferred to and the following are those most largely 
used: 

Let A = Average yarn count. 

W = Warp yarn count. 

F = Filling yarn count; 

E = Ends per inch in cloth. 

P = Picks per inch. [■[ ' ■ 

T = Total threads per square inch ■ 
- ' • - (=E-KP) •■ 

B = Breadth Or width of cloth. 

Y — Yards per pound. 



12 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

Z = Ounces per yard. 

S = Square yards per pound. 

R = Reed, in dents per inch. 

C = Cloth Constant that allows for con- 
traction in warp and in filling and 
for sizing on warp. 

Tne most important cloth calculation equation 
is AC = BYT. This equation is a basis for as- 
certaining various factors and will be discussed 
in detail later on. 

Cloth calculations are also sometimes facili- 
tated by the use of certain constant numbers. 
For instance in calculations involving 7000 
(grains in a pound) and 840 (yards in a hank), 
the constant 8.33 can be substituted if the 7000 is 
divided by the 840, or the constant .12 can be sub- 
stituted if the 840 is divided by the 7000. Simi- 
larly .2314 can be substituted for 7000 divided by 
36 X 840, or 4.32 can be substituted for 36 X 840 
divided by 7000. In simple equations, however, 
it is often quicker to cancel numbers common to 
both dividend and divisor rather than to substi- 
tute decimal numbers. 

A "cloth constant" is used to compensate for 
contraction in width and length and for sizing on 
warp. It is, however, constant only for the par- 
ticular set of conditions stated and in the follow- 
ing pages the method of ascertaining it for any 
known set of conditions is fully stated. 

A description of a cloth involves stating the 
weave, the width, the ends per inch, the picks per 
inch, the warp yarn, the filling yarn, and the 
weight. For instance a full description of the 
cloth that is most typical of the American cotton 
industry today would be : A 38% inch, 64 X 60, 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 13 

30s.40s, 5.35-yard print cloth. This description 
gives every essential particular. In commercial 
quotations the yarn counts are usually omitted 
and different mills will use slightly different yarn 
counts, and slightly different percentages of sizing 
on the warp, to get the same result. 

The number of warp threads or "ends" in the 
cloth is known as the sley, whereas the number of 
filling threads per inch in the cloth is known as 
the pick. The term "cloth construction' ' usually 
refers to the ends and picks in a square inch of 
cloth, thus the construction of the print cloth 
above is 64 X 60. In stating the construction the 
sley is always given first and the pick second, the 
64 in this case therefore referring to the ends of 
warp per inch and the 60 to the picks of filling per 
inch. Similarly in giving yarn counts, say 30s. 
4Qs, the warp yarn count is stated first and the 
filling yarn count second. 



CLOTH CONTRACTION 



The width of the woven cloth is less than the 
width of the warp in the reed. The length of the 
woven cloth is less than "the length of the warp 
from the slasher. The contraction (also called 
shrinkage or take-up) in width and in length is 
affected by several factors but as it is due to the 
necessity of the two sets of interweaving threads 
bending out of their course to pass around each 
other it depends primarily on the spacing of the 
yarns and on their diameters. The subject of 
contraction, which merits more attention than is 
usually given to it, may be clarified by stating 
certain known facts in regard thereto. 

The spacing of the interlacings is, in ordinary 



14 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

cloths, a more important factor than the diameter 
of the yarn counts, that is, an increase of one pick 
per inch will normally increase the warp con- 
traction more than hea vying the warp or filling 
yarns by several counts. 

The more the interlacings the more the shrink- 
age and therefore the greater the length of yarn 
required to produce a given width or length of 
cloth. A plain- woven cloth will require a greater 
length of yarn than a 2-up and 1-down twill and 
this in turn will require a greater length of yarn 
than a 2-up and 2-down twill. Using print-cloth 
yarns of the same counts, a 40 X 40 tobacco cloth 
will shrink less in warp and filling than will a 
60 X 60 print cloth and this in turn will shrink 
less than an 80x80 longcloth. 

When sley and pick are equal and the warp 
and filling of the same counts, the contraction will 
be nearly equal in width and in length ; the greater 
tension on the warp yarn in some cases making 
the filling contraction slightly the greater. 

In ordinary plain cloths, where the warp and 
filling yarns do not differ greatly, and the sley 
is slightly in excess of the pick, the filling con- 
traction exceeds the warp contraction. In a 
64 X 60 print cloth made of 30s and 40s yarns 
the warp contraction will normally be around 
5%% and the filling contraction around 61/2%- 
Using the same yarns but making the cloth 
60 X 64 the warp contraction would be around 
6.%% and the filling contraction around 5%%. 

Warp sateens will shrink more in width and 
less in length than will filling sateens of the same 
class. 

Fine-yarn goods shrink less than coarse yarn 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 15 

goods. The coarser and H stiff er the- .yarn the 
greater the shrinkage. 

Soft-spun filling is flattened by harder twisted 
warp and-- Mie warp contraction is therefore ordi- 
narily less than would be the case if the filling 
was twisted as hard as the warp. 

Ply yarns are normally harder twisted and 
therefore shrink more than would equivalent sin- 
gle counts. 

Th* rules that the more trie interlacings the 
more the shrinkage and the finer the yarns the 
less the shrinkage are subject to modifications for 
special conditions. In filling-corded fabrics such 
as repps and poplins, where the filling is consid- 
erably coarser than the warp and the sley greatly 
in excess of the pick, the filling lies almost straight 
and the warp does all the bending. This is due 
to the fact that the warp ends are too close to- 
gether to afford room for the coarse filling to 
bend around them. Some velvets and other pile- 
fabrics contain so many picks that beyond a cer- 
tain point the warp contraction is decreased be- 
cause the warp yarn is held and stretched beyond 
its elastic limit. 

In fancy fabrics the shrinkage of. different 
ends, due to difference in yarn counts or W dif- 
ference in character, of weave, is frequently such 
as to necessitate their being wound on separate 
beams. In some instances, however, this may be 
obviated by proper variation ip i; reeding. For in- 
stance a warp satin stripe with a plain ground 
may be woven on one beam, because- th&>warp; ends 
in the stripe are drawn four or six to a dent, and 
being crowded together they do not have to lie as 
straight and flat as they would if drawn two to 



16 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

a dent as are the warp ends for the plain ground. 

The shrinkage or contraction is affected not 
only by the nature of the fabric but also by the 
loom on which it is woven. Cloth woven on a 
loom with a high take-up roller will not shrink 
as much in width as cloth woven on an ordinary 
loom. The greater the tension in weaving the 
more the shrinkage in width and the less the 
shrinkage in length. For instance, cloth woven 
on looms with stop motions will usually show one 
or two per cent more shrinkage in width and one 
or two per cent less shrinkage in length than 
would the same cloth on ordinary looms, this 
being due to the fact that the warp has to be 
kept more tightly stretched to prevent contact by 
the drop wires. 

Any variation in the spacing of interlacings or 
in the diameter of the yarns means a variation in 
the contraction and hence in the length of yarn 
required to weave a certain length and width of 
cloth. 

To find filling contraction, knowing cloth 
width and width warp in reed: 

Rule 1. — Subtract the width in cloth from the 
width in reed and divide by the width in reed. 

Example: The warp for a 36-inch sheeting 
was spaced 39% inches in reed. What was the 
contraction from reed to cloth? 

39.375 — 36 

Answer: — = 8.57% filling con- 

39.375 
traction. 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 17 

To find warp contraction, knowing cloth 
length and warp length: 

Rule 2. — Subtract the length of cloth from the 
length of warp and divide by the length of warp. 

Example : A 40-yard cut of sheeting was made 
from 43% yards of warp. What was the contrac- 
tion from warp to cloth? 
43.75 _ 40 

Answer: = 8.57% warp con- 

43.75 
traction. 

To find length of filling or warp used, know- 
ing cloth width or length and contraction per- 
centages: 

Rule 3. — Divide the cloth width or length by 
1 minus the percentage of contraction. 

Example : A heavy sheeting is 36 inches wide 
and 40 yards long. If the filling contraction was 
8.57% and the warp contraction also 8.57%, what 
was the width of warp in reed and the length of 
warp required? 

Answer : 
36 (inches) 36 



39.375 in. width in reed. 



1 _ .0857 .9143 

40 (yards) 40 



= 43.75 yards warp re- 



1 — .0857 .9143 quired. 

CLOTH KEGAIN 

Expressed in inches, contraction and regain are 
the same. Expressed in percentages, as more 



18 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM C ADULATIONS 

customary, contraction and regain are never the 
same, as the percentage of contraction is based on 
the original width or length, whereas the percent- 
age of regain is based on the finished width or 
length. Errors are occasionally made in cloth cal- 
culations through confusing regain with contrac- 
tion and an illustration may be useful in empha- 
sizing the difference. 

Suppose width of warp in reed to be 30 inches 
and width of cloth made therefrom to be 28% 
inches. The warp has shrunk 1% inches in width 
and the cloth would need to regain 1% inches to 
attain its original width. 

The percentage of contraction in width is the 
original width minus the finished width, divided 
by the original width. In this case, : 
30 _ 28i/ 2 li/ 2 1 

== = • — = 5% contraction. 

30 30 20 

The percentage of regain to be added to the 
cloth width to give the original width of warp in 
reed is equal to the original width minus the fin- 
ished width, divided by the finisnen width, in 
this case: 
30 _ 28i/ 2 1% 1 

= = — = 5.26% regain. 

28% 28i/ 2 19 

The same relation between contraction and re- 
gain applies to the warp as well as to the filling. 
Suppose 63 yards of warp from the slasher are 
required to produce a 60 yard cut of cloth. Then 

63 — 60 

the warp contraction is == 4.76% and 

63 
63 — 60 

the warp regain is = 5%. 

60 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 19 

From the above the relationship between con- 
traction and regain is seen to be as follows : 

1 
Per cent contraction = 1 



1 + % regain 
1 
Per cent regain 



1 — % contraction 
and (1 — % contraction) X (1 + % regain) = 1 



REED CALCULATIONS 



Calculations for reed, for contraction in width, 
and for regain in width, are interdependent and 
a rule for one implies a rule for the others. This 
is sometimes overlooked and we have the anomaly 
afforded by a writer stating that it is impossible 
to formulate a rule for contraction in width and 
then going ahead and stating a rule for ascer- 
taining the reed to give a certain sley. 

There is one point here that should be noted. 
Contraction in width from reed to cloth is based 
on width of warp in reed, and regain from cloth 
to reed is based on clo^h width. The ends per 
inch, however, are a reciprocal of the width, that 
is, 64 ends to the inch means that the threads are 
spaced one sixty-fourth of an inch apart. In 
reed calculations, therefore, the use of contraction 
and regain percentages must be the reverse of 
their use in width calculations. For instance, if 
the filling contraction for a 36-inch, 48 X 48, 
sheeting is 8.57% we would find width of warp 
in reed by dividing 36 by .9143 (i. e. by 1 minus 
8.57%), obtaining 39.375 inches, but we would 
find the reed by multiplying 48 by .9143, obtaining 
43.88 ends per inch in reed and this latter divided 
by 2 ends per dent would give 21.94 dents per 
inch. 

Warps may be sleyed 1, 2, 3, 4, or even more 
ends to the dent ; for ordinary plain cloth 2 ends 
to the dent is the rule. In reed calculations it is 
only necessary to give rules for finding the ends 
per inch in reed as the dents per inch are obtain- 
able therefrom by dividing by a simple number. 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 21 

To find dents per inch in reed, knowing ends 
per inch in reed and ends per dent: 

Rule 4. — Divide ends per inch in reed by ends 
per dent. 

Example : A warp is to be drawn in with 60 
ends to the inch in the reed. What reeds would 
be required if the warp were sleyed 1, 2, 3 or 
4 ends per dent respectively? 

Answer: If there are 60 ends to the inch a 
60 reed is required for 1 end per dent ; a 30 reed 
for 2 ends per dent; a 20 reed for 3 ends per 
dent ; a 15 reed for 4 ends per dent. 

To find number of dents occupied by an 
equally reeded warp, knowing total ends, sel- 
vage ends, and ends per dent: 

Rule 5. — From total ends subtract half the sel- 
vage ends and divide by number of ends per dent. 

Example: A print cloth is woven with 2500 
ends in the warp, including 32 selvage ends. How 
many dents required? 

2500 — 16 

Answer : — = 1242 dents total. 

2 

To find width of warp in reed, knowing total 
ends in warp, selvage ends, ends per dent, and 
reed: 

Rule 6. — From total ends subtract half the sel- 
vage ends and divide by ends per dent and b$ 
dents per inch. 



22 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

Example : A print cloth is woven with 2500 
ends in the warp, of which 32 are selvage ends 
drawn in 4 ends to the dent. Using a 30 dent 
reed, what is width of warp in reed ? 

2500 — 16 

Answer: = 41.4 inches in reed. 

2 X 30 

To find reed required to produce a given sley 
with a known or estimated contraction in width 
from reed to cloth: 

Rule 7. — Multiply ends per inch in cloth by 
1 minus the percentage of filling contraction; di- 
vide result by ends per dent. 

Example : A print cloth has 64 ends per inch 
in the cloth. How many dents per inch in reed if 
filling contraction be taken as 6%%? 

Answer : 1 — .065 = .935. 64 X .935 = 59.84. 
For plain cloth there are used 2 ends per dent so 
59.84 -f- 2 = 29.92 dent reed. 

Note — If the regain had been given instead of 
the contraction, say 6.95% filling regain, then the 
reed would have been found by division instead of 
by multiplication, thus 64 ~ 1.0695 = 59.84 and 
this divided by 2 ends per dent would have given 
the same 29.92 dent reed as above. 

To find average number of ends per inch in 
an unequally reeded fabric, knowing the ends 
and dents per pattern and the reed: 

Rule 8. — Multiply number of ends in one pat- 
tern by number of reed; divide result by number 
of dents in pattern. 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 23 

Example: What is the average number of 
ends per inch in reed if the warp is drawn in with 
24 ends in 12 dents and 48 ends in 12 dents alter- 
nately, using a 30 dent reed ? ° l 

Answer: ! 

72 ends in pattern X 30 dent reed 



24 dents in pattern 
ends per inch in reed. 



90 average 



To find ends per inch in reed, knowing sley 
and yarn counts: 

Rule 9. — Square the distance between warp 
ends in cloth and add the square of the diameter 
of the average yarn count. The reciprocal of the 
square root of their sum is the number of ends 
per inch in reed. 

Example: A print cloth is to be made with 
64 ends of 30s warp and 60 picks of 40s filling. 
How many ends per inch in reed required? 

Answer : The average yarn count is 33.8s and 
this has 33.8 X 840 or 28,392 yards per pound. 
The square root of 28,392 is 169 and the diameter 

1 

of 33.8s yarn is therefore inch. The distance 

169 

between warp ends is equal to the reciprocal of 
the sley, in this case it is 1/64 inch. Let r == dis- 
tance between ends in reed, e === distance between 
ends in cloth, and d == diameter of average yarn 
count. Then 



24 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

r 2 = e 2 + d 2 

= (l/64) 2 + d/169) 2 (A) 

1 1 
== + (B) 



4096 28,392 
32,488 



116,293,632 
1 




(C) 
(D) 
(E) 



59.84 



Therefore 59.84 is number of ends per inch in 
reed. 

With 2 ends to the dent we have 59.84 ~ 2 = 
29.92 dents per inch in reed. 

Since the diameter of yarn is equal to the recip- 
rocal of the square root of the number of yards 
to the pound, and since the above rule calls for the 
squaring of the diameter, which gets back to the 
number of yards to the pound, the equation (A) 
may be eliminated and the above rule shortened to 
the following : 

Rule 9-a. — To the square of the reciprocal of 
the sley add the reciprocal of the number of yards 
to the pound of the average yarn count. The re- 
ciprocal of the square root of their sum is the 
number of ends per inch in reed. 

Note — From equation (B) it is seen that the 
spacing between ends in the cloth has a much 
more important influence on the reed and hence 
on the contraction between reed and cloth than 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 25 

has the diameter of the yarns. In obtaining equa- 
tion (C) we add 4096 and 28,392 to get the divi- 
dend 32,488 and multiply 4096 by 28,392 to get 
the divisor 116,293,632. Dividing 116,293,632 by 
32,488 we simplify the equation (C) to the equa- 
tion (D). The square root of the latter repre- 
sents the distance between ends in the reed so its 
reciprocal 59.84 must be the number of ends per 
inch in the reed. 

Having the number of ends per inch in the 
reed and in the cloth the contraction from reed 
to cloth is simply a matter of subtraction and di- 
vision, thus in the above case (64 — 59.84) -r- 64 
= 6.5% filling contraction. The above rule for ob- 
taining ends per inch in reed therefore implies 
also a rule for ascertaining the filling contraction. 




Fig. 1. 

Explanation of Rule 9 : 

Rule 9 is almost obvious from Fig. 1 herewith 
which represents a cross section across the cloth 
and shows how a pick of filling is bent out of its 
course by having to pass over and under the warp 
threads. The relation of the reed to the sley is 
made plain from the triangle having one side 
marked d, one side marked e, and the sloping por- 
tion, which is known as the hypotenuse, marked r. 

The side d represents the distance from the 
center of a filling thread to the center of a warp 
thread at the point where they cross, in other 



26; ; .CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

words it is the average diameter of the two. As 
the diameter of the warp yarn is increased by the 
addition of sizing, d is taken as the. diameter of 
the average yarn count. This is more correct 
than to use the diameter of the arithmetical aver- 
age of, the warp and filling before weaving but 
the margin of error in the latter case would 
usually be very slight. 

The side e represents the distance between warp 
ends in the cloth and is therefore the reciprocal 
of the sley. The hypotenuse r represents the dis- 
tance between warp ends in the reed, this is clear 
as it is the length of filling required to produce a 
width of cloth equal to the distance between warp 
ends. By mathematics the square of the hypote- 
nuse of a right angled triangle is equal to the sum 
of the squares of the two sides, therefore 
r 2 = e 2 + d 2 . 

In rules that are often used for ascertaining the 
reed from the sley alone, disregarding the yarn 
count as the less important factor, there is used 
as a base a number that is 1 less than the sley 
and the reed figured from this with the use of an 
average regain or contraction of 5 per cent. The 
reduction of the sley by 1 is due to the necessity 
of obtaining a sliding rate of change in the regain 
or contraction that will approximate as near as 
may be to that obtained in actual practice where 
ordinarily the finer the reed the finer the yarn 
counts. We will state both rules and see how near 
they approach to the more accurate system out- 
lined in Rule 9. 

To find approximate ends per inch in reed, 
knowing sley: 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 27 

Rule 10. — Deduct 1 from the sley and multiply 
by .95. 

Example : A cloth has 64 ends per inch. How 
many ends per inch in reed ? 

Answer : 64 — 1 = 63. 63 x .95 = 59.85 
ends per inch in reed. If 2 ends to the dent then 
the reed has 59.85 -h 2 == 29.92 dents per inch. 

To find approximate ends per inch in reed, 
knowing sley: 

Rule 11. — Deduct 1 from the sley and divide 
by 1.05. 

Example : A cloth has 64 ends per inch. How 
many ends per inch in reed? 

Answer : 64 — 1 = 63. 63 ~- 1.05 = 60 ends 
per inch in reed. If 2 ends to the dent then the 
reed has 60 -f- 2 = 30 dents per inch. 

Note.— 1 — 5% = .95. 1 + 5%"= 1.05. It will 
be seen in Rule 10 there has been assumed a 5% 
contraction, and in Rule 11 a 5% regain, after sub- 
tracting 1 from the sley to compensate for the 
variation in contraction or regain due to varia- 
tion in yarn counts. 

Contrast op Rules 9, 10 and 11. 

To contrast Rules 9, 10 and 11 we will first se- 
lect three standard cloths and ascertain the re- 
sults. Suppose we take a coarse cloth, say a 
48 X 48, 14s. 14s, sheeting; a medium cloth, say 
a 64 X 60, 30s.40s, print cloth; and a fine-yarn 
cloth, say an 88 X 80, 60s.l00s, India linon. For 
the cloths stated the results according to the three 
rules would be as follows: 



28 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

Sheeting. Print Cloth. India Linon. 
Reed 



By Rule 9 21.95 29.92 41.50 

By Rule 10 22.32 29.92 41.32 

By Rule 11 22.38 30.00 41.43 

Contraction 



By Rule 9 8.54% 6.45% 5.70% 

By Rule 10 7.00% 6.45% 6.08% 

By Rule 11 6.75% 6.67% 5.95% 

It is evident that the approximate" Rules 10 and 
11 are based on print cloth constructions and 
print cloth yarns. If Rule 9 is accepted as accu- 
rate for plain cloths then both of the approximate 
rules show too fine a reed, giving too little contrac- 
tion, on coarse goods, and too coarse a reed, giv- 
ing too much contraction, on fine goods. For 
coarse goods Rule 10 is more nearly correct than 
Rule 11, whereas on fine goods Rule 11 approxi- 
mates better the actual conditions. The farther 
away from print cloth yarns used in print cloth 
constructions is the problem given the greater is 
the error in using the approximate rules 10 
and 11. 

The error in considering only the yarn spacing 
and disregarding the other factor of yarn diame- 
ters can be brought out by considering different 
yarn counts used in the same reed. For instance, 
let us compare a wide sheeting, say a 63-inch, 
64 X 68, 21s.24s, 2 yds. per lb., and a print cloth, 
say the 38i/ 2 -mch, 64 X 60, 30s.40s, 5.35 yds. per 
lb. In the first case the average yarn count is 
22.4s and in the latter case 33.8s. Using Rule 9 
we find that the sheeting was woven with a 29 
reed and the print cloth with a 29.92 reed. Ac- 
cording to approximate rule 10 both would be 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 29 

woven with a 29.92 reed, and according to approx- 
imate rule 11 both would be woven with 30 reed. 
Rules 10 and 11 would therefore show filling con- 
traction for both sheeting and print cloth to be 
the same, 6.45% according to the first rule and 
6.67% according to the second. That this is not 
correct is obvious and Rule 9 brings out the true 
condition, that the filling contraction on the sheet- 
ing would be 9.375% as compared with 6.45% on 
the print cloth. 

To find sley that would be woven with a given 
reed and yarn counts: 



Rule 12. — From the square of the distance be- 
tween ends in the reed, subtract the reciprocal of 
the yards per pound of the average yarn count. 
The reciprocal of the square root of their differ- 
ence is the sley. 

Note — This rule is derived from Rule 9-a. 

Example: A wide sheeting is to be woven 
with 21s warp and 24s filling, using a 29 dent 
reed. How many ends per inch in the cloth pro- 
duced? 



Answer: The ends per inch in reed are 
29 X 2 = 58. The distance between ends in the 
reed is therefore 1/58 and this squared is 1/3364. 
The average yarn count is 22.4s and this contains 
22.4 X 840 = 18,816 yards to the pound. Then 
from Fig. 1 and explanation under Rule 9, we 



30 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 



know that 


r 2 = e 2 
e 2 

and e 
•e sley = 


+ d 2 , therefore 

i = r 2 — d 2 

1 1 






3364 18,816 
15,452 






63,297,024 
1 




Therefoi 


4096 
1 

~64 

= 64 ends per inch in 


cloth, 



To find approximate sley that would be woven 
with a given reed: 

Rule IS.— Divide ends in reed by .95 and add 1. 

Rule 13-a. — Multiply ends in reed by 1.05 and 
add 1. 

Example : A wide sheeting is to be woven with 
21s warp and 24s filling, using a 29 dent reed. 
How many ends per inch in cloth produced ? 

Answer: (29 x 2) ~ .95, + 1 = 61 + 1 = 62 
ends per inch in cloth. 

Answer: (29 X 2) -=- 1.05, + 1 === 60.9 + 1 = 
61.9 ends per inch in cloth. 

Note — These approximate rules are based on 
Rules 10 and 11. In this case of a standard cloth 
which uses coarse yarns in a medium reed the 
margin of error is even larger than in the con- 
trast made after Rule 11 where coarse yarns were 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 31 

used in a coarse reed, medium yarns in a medium 
reed, and fine yarns in a fine reed. Rules 10, 11, 
13 and 13-A are safe only for print cloth yarns in 
print cloth constructions and to find reed from 
sley or sley from reed it is safest to use Rules 9 
and 12. 



WARP LENGTH COMPARED WITH CLOTH 
LENGTH 



To find length of warp required to produce a 
given length of cloth, knowing picks per inch 
and yarn counts- 

Rule 14. — Square the reciprocal of the pick 
and add the reciprocal of the number of yards to 
the pound of the average yarn count. Obtain the 
reciprocal of the square root of their sum. Sub- 
tract this from the pick and divide by the pick to 
get percentage of warp contraction. The length 
of cloth required divided by 1 minus the per cent, 
warp contraction gives length of warp required. 

Note — This Rule is derived from Rule 9-A. 

Example : A print cloth is made with 64 ends 
of 30s warp and 60 picks of 40s filling. How many 
yards of warp required for a 60 yard cut of cloth ? 

Answer : Pick = 60. (1/60) 2 = 1/3600. Av- 
erage yarn count is 33.8s and this has 33.8 X 840 
or 28,392 yards to the pound. Then 

1 1 

r 2 = 1 

3600 28,392 
31,922 



102,211,200 
1 



3195 
1 
and r = — 



56.52 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 33 

The warp contraction = (60 — 56.52) -f- 60 = 
5.6%. 

The length warp required = 60 yards -~ 
(1 ._ 5.6%) = 60 -f- .944 = 63.55, say 63i/ 2 yds. 

Note — Attempts have been made by some to 
formulate empirical rules for quickly ascertaining 
the approximate percentage of warp contraction. 
A rule that is often given is : "Multiply the pick 
by 3.5 and divide by the counts of the filling." This 
is a very unsafe rule; nine times out of ten the 
results are entirely wrong. For instance it would 
show the warp contraction on a 48 X 48, 14s. 14s, 
sheeting as 12%, whereas Rule 14 would prove it 
to be the same as the filling contraction or 8.54% ; 
it would show the warp contraction on a 64 X 60, 
30s.40s, print cloth as 7%, whereas Rule 14 shows 
it to be 5.60% ; it would show the warp contrac- 
tion on an 88 X 80, 60s.l00s, India Hnon as 
2.80%, whereas Rule 14 shows it to be 4.78%. 
This approximate rule is an attempt to take into 
consideration both the spacing and the yarn 
counts but goes at it in a more or less hit-or-miss 
method. 

Warp contraction, like filling contraction, is 
based on the spacing and the yarn diameters so 
if an approximate rule is desired the best results 
would be obtained from an adaptation of Rule 10, 
thus 

To find approximate warp contraction, know- 
ing pick: 

Rule 15. — Deduct 1 from the pick and multiply 
by .95. Subtract result from the pick and divide 
by the pick. 



34 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

Example : A cloth has 60 picks per inch. What 
is warp contraction? 

Answer : 60 — 1 = 59. 59 X .95 == 56.05. 
60 — 56.05 

- = 6.58%. 



60 

Knowing cloth length and warp contraction the 
length warp required in this case is 60 yards -4- 
(1 — 6.58%) = 60 -4- .9342 = 64.22 yards. 

Note — This rule would show, similarly, 7% 
warp contraction for a 48 X 48, 14s.l4s, sheet- 
ing and 5.56% warp contraction for a 88 X 80, 
60s.l00s, India linon. As in the case of Rule 10 
it gives too little contraction on coarse goods and 
too much contraction on fine goods but is a closer 
approximation than the rule for dividing pick by 
filling counts and multiplying by 314. It is much 
safer to use Rule 14, which is much simpler to op- 
erate than to state, even though a few more fig- 
ures are involved, than to use rough approxima- 
tions which may or may not be within speaking 
distance of the correct answer. 

To find length of warp required for a given 
length of special cloths such as lenos, lappets, 
or towels: ■■ J 

Rule 16. — Measure off a convenient length in 
the cloth, say 36 inches, and cut; take out sndS 
of ^special yarns included, straighten without 
stretching, and re-measure. The length of the 
yarn out of the cloth minus the length of the yarn 
in the cloth, divided by the length of the yarn out 
of the cloth, is the warp contraction of each.; 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 35 

Example: The ground threads from a yard 
of lappet-woven cloth, after straightening with- 
out stretching, measure 38 inches; similarly the 
lappet ends from a yard of cloth measure 60 
inches. What was the warp contraction of each 
kind of yarns? 

Answer: Ground ends: (38 — 36)^-38 = 
5.26% warp contraction. 

Lappet ends : (60 — 36) -+- 60 = 40% warp 
contraction. 

Note — This operation has to be performed 
very carefully so as to get the correct original 
length of the yarns by taking out all of the wavi- 
ness without unduly stretching. It is best to take 
at least 36 inches for with a short length such as 
5 or 10 inches the margin of possible error would 
be much increased. 



CONTRACTION IN WEAVING 
PLAIN CLOTHS 



Calculations for the reed to produce a given 
sley and for the slasher length required to pro- 
duce a given length of cut are both based on the 
ascertainment of the percentage of contraction or 
take-up in weaving. It has been shown that for 
any individual case Rule 9, with the derived Rule 
14, will give accurate results. For the convenience 
of those who have to ascertain either the reed or 
the warp length the following table, based on 
Rule 9, has been worked out to show the contrac- 
tion in warp and in filling in the weaving of plain 
cloths. The table is arranged to include all plain 
cotton cloths using from 6s up to 100s yarns and 
constructions of from 32 to 136 ends per inch. 
It has been charted so that any intermediate set 
of conditions can be readily ascertained without 
the necessity of working out the formula given. 

The contraction in weaving depends primarily 
on the threads per inch crossed by the yarn, warp 
or filling, and secondarily on the average yarn 
count. The size of warp and of filling yarns to- 
gether affect both warp and filling contraction, 
so that the average yarn count is the correct basis 
to use. If the average yarn count is not known 
accurately then it is permissible to use the arith- 
metical average of the warp and filling counts as 
the margin or error in such case will usually be 
small. 

In using the table or chart the fact should be 
borne in mind that the contraction of warp yarn 
depends most largely on the number of picks 



Contraction In Weaving PlainJCloths 



Average 

varn Threads per inch crossed by the yarn 

C _^ 3 1 3 1 4 ° 44 1! 5? 5? «? 64 68 72 76 80 84 88 92 96 100 104 108 112 116 120 124 128 132 136 

6 8.8 10.8 12.9 15.0 17.1 19.3 21.3 23.4 25.6 27.8 .... ■ — — — — ^ 136 

7 7.7 9.5 11.4 13.3 15.2 17.1 19.0 21.0 23.0 25.0 27.0 29.0 

8 6.8 8.4 10.1 11.9 13.7 15.5 17.3 19.1 20.9 22.7 24.6 26.5 28.4 . 

9 6.1 7.6 9.2 10.8 12.5 14.2 15.9 17.6 19.3 21.0 22.7 24.5 26.3 28.1 • 

10 5.6 7.0 8.4 9.9 11.4 13.0 14.6 16.2 17.9 19.6 21.3 23.0 24.6 26.3 280 

12 4.7 5.8 7.1 8.4 9.8 11.2 12.7 14.2 15.7 17.2 18.7 20.2 21.7 23.2 24.7 2.6*2 27*9 

14 4.1 5.0 6.1 7.3 8.6 9.9 11.2 12.5 13.9 15-3 16.7 18.1 19.5 20.9 22.3 23.7 25'l 26*5 279 

16 3.6 4.5 5.5 6.5 7.6 8.7 9.9 11.1 12.4 13.7 15.0 16.3 17.6 18.9 20.2 21.5 22.8 24*2 25.6 27'(3 28*4 

18 3.2 4.1 5.0 5.9 6.8 7.9 9.0 10.1 11.3 12 - 5 13-7 14.9 16.1 17.3 18.5 19.8 21.1 22.4 23.6 24.8 26.0 27.2 28'.4 

20 2.9 3.7 4.5 5.3 6.2 7.2 8.2 9.2 10.3 n - 4 12.5 13.6 14.8 16.0 17.2 18.4 19.6 20.8 22.0 23.2 24.3 25.4 26 5. 27 4 28*8 

22 2.7 3.4 4.1 4.9 5.7 6.6 7.5 8.5 9.5 10 -5 11.6 12.7 13.8 14.9 16.0 17.1 18.2 19.3 20.4 21.5 22.6 23.7 24.8 25.9 27.0 28 2 

24 2.5 3.1 3.8 4.5 5.3 6.1 6.9 7.8 8.8 9-8 10.8 11.8 12.8 13.8 14.8 15.9 17.0 18.1 19.2 20.3 21.4 22.5 23.6 24.7 25.8 26.8 27 8 

26 2.3 2.8 3.4 4.1 4.9 5.7 6.5 7.3 8.2 9-1 10.0 11.0 12.0 13.0 14.0 15.0 16.0 17.0 18.1 19.2 20.3 21.4 22.4 23.4 24.4 25.4 26.4 

28 2.1 2.6 3.2 3.8 4.5 5.2 6.0 6.8 7.7 8.6 9.4 10.3 11.3 12.2 13.2 14.2 15.2 16.2 17.2 18.2 19.2 20.2 21.2 22.2 23.2 24.2 25.2 

30 2.0 2.4 2.9 3.6 4.2 4.9 5.6 6.4 7.2 8.0 8.9 9.8 10.7 11.6 12.5 13.4 14.4 15.4 16.4 17.3 18.2 19.2 20.2 21.2 22.2 23.2 24.1 

32 1.9 2.3 2.8 3.4 4.0 4.6 5.3 6.0 6.8 7.6 8.4 9.0 10.1 11.0 11.9 12.8 13.7 14.6 15.5 16.4 17.3 18.2 19.1 20.0 21.0 22.0 23.0 

34 1.8 2.2 2.7 3.2 3.8 4.4 5.1 5.8 6.5 7.2 8.0 8.8 9.6 10.4 11.2 12.1 13.0 13.9 14.8 15.7 16.6 17.5 18.4 19.3 20.2 21.1 22.0 

36 1.7 2.1 2.6 3.1 3.6 4.2 4.8 5.5 6.2 6.9 7.6 8.4 9.2 10.0 10.8 11.6 12.4 13.3 14.1 14.9 15.8 16.7 17.6 18.5 19.4 20.3 21.2 

38 1.6 2.0 2.4 2.9 3.4 4.0 4.6 5.2 5.9 6.6 7.3 8.0 8.8 9.6 10.4 11.2 12.0 12.7 13.5 14.3 15.1 15.9 16.8 17.7 18.6 19.5 20.4 

40 1.5 1.8 2.2 2.7 3.2 3.8 4.4 5.0 5.6 6.2 6.9 7.6 8.3 9.1 9.8 10.6 11.4 12.2 13.0 13.8 14.6 15.4 16.2 17.0 17.9 18.8 19.6 

45 1.4 1 7 2.0 2.4 2.9 3.4 3.9 4.4 5.0 5.6 6.2 6.8 7.5 8.2 8.9 9.6 10.3 11.0 11.8 12.6 13.3 14.0 14.8 15.6 16.4 17.2 18.0 

50 12 15 18 2 2 2 6 3.0 3.5 4.0 4.5 5.0 5.6 6.2 6.8 7.4 8.0 8.7 9.4 10.1 10.8 11.5 12.2 12.9 13.6 14.3 15.0 15.8 16.6 

60 10 13 1.6 1.9 2.2 2.6 3.0 3.4 3.8 4.3 4.8 5.3 5.8 6.3 6.9 7.5 8.1 8.7 9.3 9.9 10.5 11.1 11.7 12.2 13.1 13.8 14.5 

70 9 11 13 16 1.9 2.2 2.5 2.9 3.3 3.7 4.1 4.6 5.1 5.6 6.1 6.6 7.1 7.6 8.1 8.6 9.1 9.7 10.3 10.9 11.5 12.1 12.7 

80 8 1 1 2 1 4 1 7 2 2.3 2.6 2.9 3.3 3.7 4.1 4.5 4.9 5.3 5.7 6.2 6.7 7.2 7.7 8.2 8.7 9.2 9.7 10.3 10.9 11.5 

90 7 '8 10 12 15 17 2 2.3 2.6 2.9 3.2 3.6 4.0 4.4 4.8 5.2 5.6 6.0 6.4 6.9 7.4 7.9 8.4 8.9 9.4 9.9 10.4 

100 6 '7 '9 l'l 1 3 1 5 1 7 2 2.3 2.6 2.9 3.2 3.6 4.0 4.4 4.8 5.2 5.6 6.0 6.4 6.8 7.2 7.6 8.0 8.4 8.9 9.5 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 37 

around which the warp has to bend; also that 
the contraction of filling yarn depends most 
largely on the number of warp ends around which 
the filling has to bend. 

As an illustration of the method of using this 
table let us take a 39-in., 68x72, 30s.40s, 4.75-yard 
print cloth. Suppose the average yarn count is 
34s. The 34s is found on the left hand side of 
the table and by following the horizontal line until 
we reach the vertical column headed 72 threads 
we find that the warp contraction or take-up in 
weaving will be 8 per cent. The 72 threads in 
this case represent the picks with which the warp 
interlaces. The filling interlaces with 68 warp 
ends and by finding the intersection of the 34s 
average yarn count and the vertical column 
marked 68, which in this case represents 'warp 
ends, we find that the filling contraction or take- 
up in weaving is 7.2 per cent. 

Knowing the contractions the results desired 
are easily obtained. For a 60 yard cut we would 
need 60 divided by 1 minus 8%, which is 60 di- 
vided by .92, or 65% yards from the slasher. The 
reed required would be 68 (sley) multiplied by 1 
minus 7.2%, which is 68 X~ .928, or 63.1 ends per 
inch in the reed; this divided by 2 ends per dent 
would give 31.5 dents per inch reed required. 



AVERAGE YARN COUNT 



The ascertainment of the average yarn count 
in a cloth is a matter of prime importance as this 
factor is necessary as a basis in making or prov- 
ing various other calculations dealing with cloth. 
To obtain the average yarn count accurately it is 
necessary to take into consideration the contrac- 
tion or take-up of warp and of filling and also the 
percentage of sizing added to the warp. 

The average yarn count is rarely the same as 
the arithmetical average of the warp and filling 
counts; it is usually coarser by reason of there 
being a larger proportion of the coarser than of 
the finer counts involved. For instance if a cloth 
is made with 60s warp and 100s filling the arith- 
metical average would be 60 plus 100, divided by 
2, which would give 80s. Taking into considera- 
tion contraction and sizing and the larger per- 
centage of warp than of filling the average yarn 
count is more likely to be around 74s. 

The basic formula in cotton cloth calculations is 

Formula I : AC = BYT 

where A = Average yarn count. 
C = Cloth constant. 
B = Breadth or width of cloth in 

inches. 
Y = Yards per pound. 
T = Total threads per square inch. 

The above is an exact equation as each side of 
the equation represents the number of yards that 
weigh one pound. The English cotton yarn num- 
bering system is based on the count indicating 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 39 

the number of 840-yafd hanks that weigh one 
pound, so the yarn count times 840 equals yards 
of yarn per pound. If there were no contraction 
or sizing then C would equal 840. Under actual 
conditions, C, a length of yarn, as measured in 
the cloth, that weighs the same as a hank of the 
yarn as ; spun, must always be. less than 840 by 
reason of the contraction and sizing. Under all 
circumstances the average yarn count A, multi- 
plied by the cloth constant C, will represent the 
number of yards of yarn that weigh one pound. 
T, which is the sum of the number of threads of 
warp and filling in one square inch, necessarily 
represents the inches of yarn as measured in one 
square inch of the cloth ; this multiplied by B, the 
cloth width, equals the inches of yarn in one inch 
of cloth of that width or the number of yards of 
yarn in one linear yard of cloth; this in turn mul- 
tiplied by 'Y, the linear yards of cloth per pound, 
equals the yards of yarn in one pound of the cloth. 
Therefore AC represents yards of yarn to the 
pound, and BYT represents yards of yarn to the 
pound, and consequently AC == BYT. 



To find average yarn count in a cloth when 
widtn, weight, sley and pick, and cloth constant 
are known: 



Rule 17 : Multiply width of cloth in inches by 
yards per pound and by total threads per square 
inch; divide product by suitable cloW Constant 
that allows for contraction and 'sizing. 

The above may be. expressed, by transposition 



40 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

of the basic Formula 1, as 
BYT 
Formula 2: A = 



Example 1: A heavy sheeting is made 36 
inches, 48x48, 3 yds. per lb. If the cloth constant 
is 735, what is the average yarn count? 

BYT 36 X 3 X 96 

Answer : A = = = 14s 

C 735 

average yarn count. 

Example 2 : A print cloth is made 38% inches, 
64x60, 5.35 yds. per lb. If the cloth constant is 
756, what is the average yarn count? 

BYT 38.5 X 5.35 X 124 

Answer : A = = = 

C 756 

33.8s average yarn count. 

Example 3 : An India linon is made 30 inches, 
88x80, 11.35 yds. per lb. If the cloth constant is 
775, what is the average yarn count? 

BYT 30 X H.35 X 168 

Answer: A = = = 

C 775 

73.8s average yarn count. 

To find average yarn count in a cloth when 
warp and filling counts and percentages of 
warp and filling are known: 

Rule 18 : Multiply the warp count by the per- 
centage of sized warp and the filling count by the 
percentage of filling. Add their products. 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 41 

Example : A print cloth is made of 30s warp 
and 40s filling. The sized warp constitutes 60% 
and the filling 40% of the weight of the cloth. 
What is the average yarn count? 

Answer: 30 x .60 = 18 

40 X .40 == 16 

34 = average yarn count. 

To find average yarn count in a cloth when 
width, weight, sley and pick, and percentages 
of contraction and sizing are known: 

Rule 19. Divide total ends in warp by 1 minus 
percentages for warp contraction and sizing. Mul- 
tiply cloth width by picks per inch and divide by 
1 minus percentage for filling contraction. Add 
foregoing lengths of warp and filling; multiply by 
yards per pound and divide by 840. 

Example : A grey shirting is woven 40 inches, 
80x92, 3V2 yds. per lb. Warp contraction 12%, 
sizing on warp 6%, filling contraction 9%%. 
What is average yarn count? 

Answer : Total ends in warp = 40 X 80 = 
3200. 3200 + 40 selvage ends == 3240. 

3240-=- (1 — 18% contraction and sizing) = 
3240 -7- .82 = 3951 equivalent yards of warp. 

(40 inches X 92 picks) -r- (1 — 9i/ 2 % contrac- 
tion) = 3680 ~ .905 = 4066 yards of filling. 

3951 -f- 4066 = 8017 yards yarn in one linear 
yard of cloth. 

(8017 yards yarn X 3.50 yds. per lb.) -=- 840 = 
33.4s average yarn count. 

Note — The yards of warp shown are the equiv- 



42 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

alent yards considering sizing as yarn. The actual 
length of warp yarn would be 3240 divided by 1 
minus 12% contraction or 3682 yards. In calcula- 
tions involving length only 3682 would be used but 
where the weight in yards per pound enters in it 
is necessary to add to the actual warp length a 
length equivalent to the sizing and thus 3951 as 
used above is correct. 

To find average yarn count in a cloth when 
sley, pick, counts of warp and filling, and con- 
traction and sizing percentages are known: 

Rule 20 : Divide ends per inch by 1 minus per- 
centages for warp contraction and sizing. Divide 
picks per inch by 1 minus percentage for filling 
contraction. Divide each of above quotients by its 
own yarn count; add the results and divide into 
the equivalent inches of yarn in a square inch. 

Example: A grey shirting is woven with 80 
ends per inch of 30s warp, having contraction of 
12% and sized 6% ; and with 92 picks of 38s fill- 
ing, having contraction of 9%%. What is aver- 
age yarn count? 

Answer: 80-=- (1 — 18%) = 80 -h .82 = 97.6 
inches of warp required to produce an inch of 
cloth, considering sizing as yarn. 

92 -4- (1 — 91/2%) = 92 -f- .905 = 101.7 inches 
of filling required to produce an inch of cloth. 

Then : 
97.6 -f- 30s = 3.25 (relative weight of warp) 

101.7 -=- 38s = 2.68 (relative weight of warp) 



199.3 -1- 5.93 = 33.6s average yarn count 
Note — The above is based on the fact that the 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 43 

length divided by the count times 840 is equiva- 
lent to the weight, and that the length divided by 
the weight is equivalent to the counts times 840. 
The sley and pick represent inches of yarn in a 
square inch, as measured in the cloth, and allow- 
ing for contraction and size, represent inches of 
yarn used to produce a square inch, considering 
sizing as yarn. As they represent the inches of 
yarn in a square inch or the yards of yarn in a 
square yard the lengths 97.6 and 101.7 may be 
considered as hanks and 840, the yards per hank, 
are therefore omitted from the calculations. The 
above gives exact results but where contraction 
and sizing percentages are unknown fairly ap- 
proximate results can be obtained from the fol- 
lowing rule which is largely used. 

To find average yarn count in a cloth when 
sley, pick, and counts of warp and filling', are 
known: 

Rule 21 : Divide sley by warp count, and pick 
by filling count. Add the results and divide into 
sum of sley and pick. 

Example: A grey shirting is woven with 80 
ends of 30s warp and 92 picks of 38s filling to 
the square inch. What is the average yarn count? 

Answer : 

80 -=- 30s = 2.67 
92 -f- 38s = 2.42 



172 -f- 5.09 = 33.8s average yarn count 

Note — The average yarn count as obtained by 
this abbreviated rule is usually not materially 



44 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

different from the results obtained by the more 
accurate Rule 20, but where the contractions in 
warp and filling are very different, for instance in 
such goods as Venetians or crepes, there is a larger 
variation. 

To find average yarn count in a cloth con- 
taining' more than one count of warp or filling, 
when ends and picks of each count of yarn are 
known: 

Rule 22 : Divide average sley by average warp 
count. Divide number of single threads of filling 
in an inch by average filling count. Add the re- 
sults and divide into the sum of the average sley 
and pick. 

Note — This rule is based on Rule 21. In find- 
ing the average sley, average pick, and average 
yarn count, it is necessary to first reduce all ply 
yarns to equivalent single yarns. 

Example: A mercerized corded check is 
woven 36 inches wide, using 2736 ends of 70/1 
plain and 432 ends of 10/2 mercerized; and hav- 
ing 76 picks of 90/1 plain and 8 picks of 
24/2 mercerized, to the inch. What is the aver- 
age yarn count? 

Answer : 

432 ends of 10/2 = 864 ends of 10s. 

864 + 2736 = 3600 single threads in warp. 
3600 -f- 36 inches = 100 average sley. 

864 ~ 10s = 86.40 
2736 ~ 70s = 39.09 



3600 -^ 125.49 == 28.69 aver, warp count. 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 45 

8 picks of 24/2 = 16 single threads of 24s. 
16 + 76 = 92 single thread of filling in an inch. 

16-=- 24s = .667 

76-^- 90s = .844 



92 ~ 1.511 = 60.89 average filling count. 

Then: 

100 average sley divided by 28.69 aver- 
age warp =3.485 
92 single threads of filling divided by 

60.89 average filling = 1.511 



192 total single threads yarn in square 

inch divided by 4.996 

== 38.43s average yarn count. 

To find average yarn count in a cloth contain- 
ing more than one count of warp or filling, 
when ends and picks of each count of yarn are 
known: 

Rule 23 : Divide the average number per inch 
of single threads of each kind of yarn by its yarn 
count; add the results and divide into total threads 
per square inch. 

Note — This is an abbreviation of Rule 22. 

Example : (Same as in Rule 22.) 

Answer: This mercerized corded check aver- 
ages 24 single threads of 10s warp and 76 single 
threads of 70s warp to the inch ; it has 16 single 
threads of 24s filling and 76 single threads of 90s 
filling to the inch. 



46 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 



Then 


: 






24- 


-10S: 


= 2.400 




76- 


-70S: 


= 1.086 




16- 


-24s: 


= .667 




76- 


-90S: 


= .844 




192 


4.997 = 


= 38.43s 



aver, yarn count. 



THE CLOTH CONSTANT 



In cloth calculations there is an appreciable 
saving of time and effort in using a constant 
that automatically allows for contraction in width 
from reed to cloth, for contraction in length from 
slasher to cloth, and for the addition of sizing to 
the warp. The "cloth constant" is frequently 
stated as 756 or 764, and apparently no book on 
textile calculations shows how these constants 
are obtained or under what conditions they are 
correct. We propose to show the theory under- 
lying this matter so that, knowing the particulars 
in regard to the cloth under consideration and 
the conditions under which it is woven, any one 
can figure out the correct cloth constant. 

At the start, it may be noted that the term 
"constant" does not mean constant for all condi- 
tions but constant only for one set of conditions. 
Cloth constants actually used vary from less than 
700 up to over 800, although for ordinary plain 
cloths they are usually between 735 and 775. 

The "cloth constant" is based on the hank of 
840 yards and represents a length of yarn, as 
measured in the cloth, that is equivalent in weight 
to a hank of the average of warp and filling counts 
before sizing or weaving. 

In figuring the cloth constant it is usual to con- 
sider the take-up or contraction in length of yarn 
during weaving and the addition of sizing as 
having the same effect, as either results in the 
yarn in the cloth measuring less to the pound than 
the same yarn as spun. For instance, using 30s 
warp, we know that it measures 840 X 30, or 
25,200 yards to the pound. If it takes up 10% 
in weaving it occupies a length in the cloth of 
25,200 X .90 or 22,600 yards ; 22,600 divided by 
840 equals 27s so that after take-up 30s may be 



48 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

considered as 27s. 30 — 10% = 27s. If the 30s 
was sized 10% it would be very slightly finer 
than 27s. If the 30s was sized 5% and the take- 
up in weaving was 5%, the equivalent count in 
the cloth would also approximate very close to 
27s. In any one of these three cases we could, for 
cloth calculation purposes, disregard contraction 
and sizing, and figure on 27s instead of 30s or, 
to put it another way, figure that each hank had 
contracted 10% and therefore measured 756 yards 
instead of 840 yards. 

To obtain a constant that will allow for con- 
traction and sizing, so that in cloth calculations 
these may be disregarded and the yarn considered 
as lying in the cloth in a straight line and unsized, 
it is necessary to know the percentages of warp 
and of filling in the cloth, in addition to the con- 
traction in width, the contraction in length, and 
the percentage of sizing added to the warp. 

The constant 764 is primarily based on the 
assumption that there is 6% contraction from 
reed to cloth, 6% contraction from slasher length 
to cloth length, and 6% sizing added to the warp, 
also that the weight of filling and of sized warp in 
the cloth are the same. If the filling contracts 
6% then a hank of 840 yards will measure in the 
cloth a distance equal to 840 X .94 or 789.6 yards. 
If the warp contracts 6% a hank also measures 
840 X -94 or 789.6 yards in the cloth, but it is also 
sized 6% and this, for cloth calculation purposes, 
may be considered as having the same effect as 
contraction. 6% + 6% == 12%. 1 — 12% = .88. 
Then 840 X .88 = 739.6. On the assumption that 
warp and filling each account for 50% of the 
weight of the cloth, we then obtain the cloth con- 
stant as follows : * 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 49 

Warp = 840 X .88 X .50 == 369.6 
Filling == 840 X .94 X .50 = 394.8 



Cloth constant == 764.4, say 764. 

An idea of the range of cloth constants to be 
expected can be obtained by assuming the weight 
of warp and of filling in the cloth to be the same 
and figuring out the results with some normal 
variations in contraction and sizing. For instance 
the following may be taken as representative : 

Pet. of Pet. Warp Sizing Filling Cloth 

sized warp, of filling, contraction, on warp, contraction, constant. 



50% 


50% 


4% ■ 


4% 


4% 


790 


50% 


50% 


5% 


5% 


5% 


777 


50% 


50% 


6% 


6% 


6% 


764 


50% 


50% 


7% 


6% 


7% 


756 


50% 


50% 


7% 


7% 


7% 


752 


50% 


50% 


8% 


7% 


8% 


743 


50% 


50% 


9% 


7% 


9% 


735 



50% 50% 10% 7% 10% 727 

Some mills use the constant 735 for heavy 
sheetings, 745 for sheetings, 756 for print cloths, 
and 775 for India linons, and obtain fairly ap- 
proximate results. The exact constant will vary 
according to any variation in the percentage of 
warp or of filling, of contraction in width or in 
length ,or of the percentage of sizing added to the 
warp. 

The percentages of warp and of filling are rare- 
ly exactly the same so we shall first put the result 
of the above analysis as a rule and then give a 
few examples illustrative of the cloth constants 
that would be obtained for typical standard cloths. 



50 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

To find the cloth constant, knowing percent- 
ages of warp and of filling, contraction and siz- 
ing of warp, and contraction of filling: 

Rule 24: Subtract the percentages of warp 
contraction and sizing from 1, and multiply by 840 
and by the percentage of sized warp in the cloth. 
Subtract the percentage of filling contraction from 
1, and multiply by 840 and by the percentage of 
filling in the cloth. The sum of the two products 
is the cloth constant to be used to allow for con- 
traction and sizing. 

Example 1: No 3 sail duck is 22-in. wide, 
has 29 ends of 7/4 ply warp and 22 picks of 7/5 
ply filling to the square inch. It weighs 16 ounces 
per yard or 1 yard per pound. Warp is 57% and 
filling 43% of the cloth weight. No sizing is 
used on such coarse ply warps so that factor is 
eliminated. If the warp contraction is 15% and 
filling contraction 20%, what is the cloth con- 
stant ? 

Answer : 

Warp : 840 X .85 X -57 = 406.98 

Filling: 840 X .80 X .43 = 288.96 



Cloth constant = 695.94, say 696. 

Example 2: A heavy sheeting is woven 36 
inches, 48 X 48, 14s.l4s, 3 yds. per lb. Warp 
53%, filling 47%. Warp contraction 8%%, sizing 
on warp 7%, filling contraction 8%%. What is 
the cloth constant? 

Answer : 

Warp : 840 X .845 X .53 = 376.19 

Filling: 840 X .915 X .47 = 361.24 



Cloth constant = 737.43 say 737. 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 51 

Example 3 : A sheeting is woven 36 inches, 
56 X 60, 21s.24s, 4 yds. per lb. Warp 54%, fill- 
ing 46%. Warp contraction 8%, sizing on warp 
7%, filling contraction 7%. What is the cloth 
constant ? 

Answer : 

Warp : 840 X .85 X .54 = 385.56 

Filling: 840 X-93 X .46 = 359.35 



Cloth constant = 744.91, say 745. 

Example 4 : A print cloth is woven 381/2 inches, 
64 X 60, 30s.40s, 5.35 yds. per lb. Warp 60%, 
filling 40%. Warp contraction 6%, sizing on 
warp 6%, filling contraction 6%%. What is the 
cloth constant? 

Answer : 

Warp : 840 X .88 X .60 = 443.52 

Filling: 840 X .935 X .40 = 314.16 



Cloth constant = 757.68, say 758. 

Example 5 : A grey shirting is woven 40 inches, 
80 X 72, 50s.60s, 6.80 yds. per lb. Warp 57%, 
filling 43%. Warp contraction 5.2%, sizing od 
warp 5%, filling contraction 6.3%. What is the 
cloth constant? 

Answer : 

Warp : 840 X .898 X .57 = 429.96 

Filling: 840 X .937 X .43 = 338.44 



Cloth constant = 768.40, say 768. 

Example 6 : An India linon is woven 30 inches, 
88 X 80, 60s.l00s, 11.35 yds. per lb. Warp 65%, 
filling 35%. Warp contraction 4.8%, sizing on 



52 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

warp 4%, filling contraction 5.7%. What is the 
cloth constant? 

Answer : 

Warp : 840 X -912 X .65 = 497.95 

Filling: 840 X .943 X .35 = 277.24 

Cloth constant = 775.19, say 775. 

To find cloth constant, knowing width, 
weight, construction, and average yarn count: 

Rule 25 : Multiply width in inches by yards 
per pound and by total threads per square inch;, 
divide product by average yarn count. 

The above may be expressed, by transposition 
of the basic formula 1, as 

BYT 

Formula 3 : C = 



Example: A print cloth is woven 39 inches 
68 X 72, 30s.40s, 4.75 yds. per lb. Average yarn 
count is 34.1s. What is the cloth constant? 

BYT 39 X 4.75 X 140 
Answer : C = = = 



A 34.1 

760 cloth constant. 



CONSTRUCTION CALCULATIONS 



The number of warp ends and of filling picks 
per square inch, that is, the sley and the pick, are 
often referred to as the "construction" of the 
cloth. 

Staple plain cloths with a large number of ends 
per inch are made with fine yarns, and the 
coarser the yarn the fewer threads used per 
square inch. The same yarns may be used in 
different construction, however, according to 
the openness of the fabric desired. There is a 
limit, depending on the diameter of the yarn, to 
the number of ends of any count that can be 
used but the fabric can be made as open as de- 
sired and in some instances fine yarns are used 
in very coarse constructions. 

In plain cloths for ordinary purposes it is 
usually found best to have the sley and pick ap- 
proximate to secure best results. In the United 
States it is customary to have the sley slightly 
exceed the pick. In England it would seem that 
the contrary is the case, that there are usually 
slightly more picks than ends. If the sley and 
pick are the same the cloth is said to have a 
' 'square" construction. There are certain con- 
structions for certain goods that are more or less 
standard in each country. For instance in the 
United States the typical construction for coarse 
sheeting is 48 square (48 ends and 48 picks per 
square inch), but sheetings of different qualities 
are made from as coarse as 40x40 up to 68x68. 
The typical print cloth construction is 64 square, 
though subcount prints may be as open as 48x48 
in some cases, while fine prints may run up to 
88x88 or even above. Some tobacco cloths are 
made in constructions as coarse as 8x8 ends per 
square inch while some imported transparent 



54 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

Swiss organdies or fine French lawns, for wom- 
en's collars, come in constructions as fine as 
180x180. The first has 16 and the latter 360 
threads per square inch ; these probably mark the 
limits in staple plain cloths. 

In passing it may be noted that while canvas 
and duck have comparatively coarse construc- 
tions they probably average finer in construction 
as compared with the size of their yarns than any 
other type of cloths. In some instances they have 
as many ends in the warp as the count of the 
yarn would permit to be contained in an inch if 
laid side by side without any filling; they are 
packed together so tight in weaving on a heavy 
loom that there are practically no interstices be- 
tween the yarns, and the cloth therefore has a 
board-like feel. 

It may also be noted that special fabrics often 
have more threads per inch than are here noted 
for plain cloths. For instance, an imported Eng- 
lish pique vesting, made with filling back and 
filling stuffing, has been found on examination 
to have over 800 threads per square inch. Even 
plain-woven cloths, if for special purposes, may 
be far from having approximately the same num- 
ber of ends and picks per inch, for instance a 
typical "cord fabric" that is one of the several 
types of cloths that are used in various parts of 
an automobile tire, has 2% picks per inch to 261/2 
ends per inch. This study, however, is confined 
mainly to staple plain cloths of large consump- 
tion and peculiar specialties may be disregarded. 

To find the total threads per square inch, 
knowing aU other particulars: 

Rule 26: Multiply average yarn count by 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 55 

cloth constant; divide product by width in inches 
and by yards per pound. 

The above may be expressed, by transposition 
of the basic formula 1, as 

AC 
Formula 4: T= 

BY 

Example: A print cloth is to be made 38^ 
inches wide, to weigh 5.35 yards per pound, from 
30s warp and 40s filling. Average yarn count 
33.8 and cloth constant 756. What would be total 
threads per square inch necessary? 

Answer : 

AC 33.8 X 756 

T = = =124 threads per 

BY 38.5 X 5.35 square inch.. 

Knowing the usual constructions for print 
cloths we would naturally make this cloth with 
64 warp ends and 60 picks per inch. 



WIDTH CALCULATIONS 



Woven goods of 12 inches and under are known 
as narrow fabrics and are made on narrow-fabric 
or ribbon looms that weave several at a time with 
the aid of rack-and-pinion controlled shuttles. 
Cloth is made on an ordinary fly-shuttle loom. 

Cloth widths run from 13 inches up to wide 
sheeting widths of 108 inches ; a small amount is 
made for special purposes in even wider widths. 
The width is usually stated in inches but for wide 
sheeting is often expressed in quarters of a yard 
(9 inches), thus we see quotations on 6/4 (this 
is 54 inches and known as six-quarter) sheeting 
up to 12/4 or 108 inch sheeting. Sometimes this 
system is used for widths less than 50 inches, for 
instance 4/4 being used in place of 36 inches, or 
even 3/4 in place of 27 inches. 

Ordinary staple cloths are mainly between 25 
and 45 inches in width, probably the bulk being 
between 36 and 40 inches. 

Looms are ordinarily known by the width of 
the cloth that can be woven on them and in order 
to allow for contraction the reed space is there- 
fore usually four or five inches wider than the 
nominal width named. For instance a 40" loom 
is one intended for weaving cloth up to the 40 
inch width and therefore usually has a reed space 
of 44 to 45 inches. 

To find width of cloth to correspond with 
other particulars stated: 

Rule 27. Multiply average yarn count by 
cloth constant; divide product by total threads' 
per square inch and by yards to the pound. 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 57 

The above may be expressed, by transposition 
of the basic formula 1, as 

AC 
Formula 5 : B = 

TY 

Example: A sub-count print cloth is to be 
made with 64 ends of 28s warp and 56 picks of 
38s filling. Weight desired is 7.85 yards per 
pound. Average yarn count is 33.6 and cloth con- 
stant 756. What would be the necessary width 
of the cloth? 
Answer : 

AC 33.6 X 756 

B = = = 27 inches. 

TY 120 X 7.85 

RELATION OF CLOTH WIDTH AND 
WEIGHT. 

If the warp and filling yarns, also the sley and 
pick, are maintained the same then the width 
times the weight is constant. 

To find weight corresponding to a new width, 
yarns and construction being unchanged: 

Rule 28 : Multiply present width and weight 
together for a constant. Divide this constant by 
any desired width and the quotient will be the 
corresponding weight. 

Example: A 36-inch, 64x68, 21s.24s, sheeting 
weighs 3.50 yards. What would be the weight 
of identical cloth in other usual widths? 

Answer: 36 X 3.50 = 126. Dividing this 
constant by various widths we get corresponding 



58 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 



weight in yards per pound as follows : 

30 inch width weighs 4.20 yards per pound. 



32 ' 






3.94 " 


34 ' 






3.71 " 


36 ' 






3.50 " 


38 ' 






3.32 " 


40 ' 






3.15 " 


42 ' 






3.00 " 


45 ' 






2.80 " 


48 ' 






2.62 " 


54 ' 






2.33 " 


63 ' 






2.00 " 


72 ' 






1.75 " 


81 ' 






1.55 ■" 


90 ' 






1.40 " 


99 ' 
08 ' 






1.27 " 
1.17 " 



WEIGHT CALCULATIONS 



In the United States the weight of cloth is 
usually stated in terms of the linear yards that 
weigh one pound. Heavy goods such as duck and 
tire fabrics are more conveniently stated in terms 
of ounces per yard, in order to avoid fractions. 
The English use an entirely different system from 
either of these, as they usually state the weight 
in terms of pounds per piece of so many yards. 
For certain purposes cloth is stated in terms of 
square yards to the pound; this system has also 
been used in tariff laws. 

Let Y = yards (linear) per pound. 
Z = ounces per linear yard. 
S = square yards per pound. 
L = lbs. per piece. 

To find weight in linear yards per pound, 
knowing ounces per linear yard: 

Rule 29: Divide 16 (ounces to pound) by 
ounces per linear yard. 

Example: A tent duck weighs 10 ounces per 
linear yard. What is the weight in yards per 
pound? 

16 16 
Answer : Y = — = — =1.6 yards per lb. 
Z 10 

Note — In the same way yards per pound can 
be changed to ounces per yard by dividing 16 by 
the yards per pound. 

To find weight in square yards per pound, 
knowing linear yards per pound: 



60 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

Rule 30: Multiply width in inches by yards 
per pound and divide by 36. 

Example 1 : A 38%-inch print cloth measures 
5.35 linear yards per pound. How many square 
yards to the pound? 

Answer : 

BY 38.5 X 5.35 

S = = = 5.72 square yds. 

36 36 per pound. 

Example 2: A 27 inch print cloth measures 
7.85 linear yards per pound. How many square 
yards to the pound? 

Answer : 

BY 27 X 7.85 

S = = = 5.89 square yards 

36 36 per pound. 

Note — In the same way, square yards to the 
pound times 36, divided by the width, gives yards 
per pound. 

To find weight in pounds per cut, knowing 
yards per pound: 

Rule 31 : Divide length of cut in yards by the 
yards per pound. 

Example : What is weight of a 40 yard cut of 
2.85-yard drill? 

Answer : 

40 40 

L = = = 14 pounds per cut. 

Y 2.85 

To find weight in yards per pound, knowing 
weight in pounds per piece: 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 61 

Rule 32 : Divide yards per piece by weight of 
piece in pounds. 

Example : The standard English grey shirting 
is known as the "81,4-lb. shirting" and measures 
38 yards to the piece. What is the weight in 
yards per pound? 

Answer : 

38 38 

Y = = = 4.12 yards per pound. 

L 814 

To find weight of cloth in yards per pound, 
knowing all other particulars: 

Rule 33 : Multiply the average yarn count by 
cloth constant; divide the product by the width in 
inches and by the total threads per square inch. 

The above may be expressed, by transposition 
of the basic formula 1, as 

AC 

Formula 6 : Y = 

BT 

Example : A print cloth is made 38% inches,, 
64x64, 30s.38s. Average yarn count 33.6, and 
cloth constant 756. What is weight in yards per 
pound? 

Answer : 

AC 33.6 X 756 

Y = = = 5.15 yds. per lb. 

BT 38.5 X 128 

To find weight of cloth in yards per pound, 
knowing all other particulars: 

Rule 34: Divide the sley by the warp count; 



62 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

divide the pick by the filling count; add their quo- 
tients and multiply by the width. Divide the 
cloth constant by the result. 

The above may be expressed as follows : 

E P 
Y = C-f-B 



( -+-) 

\ W F / 



Example: A print cloth is made 38V2 inches, 
64x64, 30s.38s. Cloth constant 756. What is 
weight in yards per pound? 

Answer : 

(64 64 \ 
1 I = 
30 38 / 

756 

5.15 yards per pound. 



38.5 X 3.817 



PERCENTAGES OF WARP, FILLING, 
AND SIZING 



To find weight of filling yarn in a piece of 
cloth, knowing* all particulars: 

Rule 35 : Multiply width in reed by picks per 
inch and by yards cloth in piece; divide product 
by the filling count and by 840. 

Example: A print cloth is woven 39 inches, 
72x76, 30s.38s, 4.25 yds. per lb. What is weight 
of filling in a 60-yard cut? 

Answer: Assuming a cloth constant of 756 
then from Rule 17 the average yarn count would 
be 32%s. The filling contraction is found from 
the table given, for the contraction on plain cloth 
by looking under the column headed 72 (in this 
case ends warp crossed by the filling) and taking 
a figure that is one-fourth of the difference be- 
tween those shown for 32s and 34s average yarn 
counts; for 32%s average yarn count the filling 
contraction is therefore 8.3%. The cloth width, 
39 inches, divided by 1 minus 8.3%, which is .917, 
gives width in reed as 42% inches. 

Then the weight filling in cut = 
42.5 X 76 X 60 

= 6.07 lbs. 

38 X 840 

To find weight of warp (unsized) in a piece 
of cloth, knowing all particulars: 

Rule 36 : Divide total ends in warp by 1 minus 
warp contraction to get yards warp yarn in one 



64 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

yard of cloth; multiply this by yards in piece and 
divide by the warp count and by 840. 

Example: (As above). What is the weight 
of warp (unsized) in a 60-yard cut? 

Answer : Total ends in warp = 39 X 72 = 
2808 plus 48 selvage ends = 2856. From the 
warp contraction table we find under the column 
headed 76 (in this case picks crossed by the waro) 
that the warp contraction corresponding to 32 tos 
average yarn count would be 9.1%. 1 minus 
9.1 == .909. 

Then weight unsized warp in cut = 
2856 60 3142 X 60 

X = = 7.48 lbs. 

.909 30 X 840 30 X 840 

To find weight of sizing in a piece of cloth, 
knowing all particulars: 

Rule 37 : Add weight of filling, ascertained by 
Rule 35, to weight of unsized warp, ascertained 
by Rule 36, and subtract from total weight of 
cloth. 

Example: (As above). What is the weight 
of the sizing in a 60-yard cut ? 

Answer: A 60-yard cut of 4.25 yard cloth 
weighs 60 -h 4.25 == 14.12 lbs. Weight of filling 
plus unsized warp = 6.07 + 7.48 = 13.55 lbs. 
Weight of sizing in cut therefore 14.12 = 13.55 
= 0.57 lb. 

To find percentages of filling, warp (unsized), 
and sizing in a piece of cloth, having their re- 
spective weights: 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 65 

Rule 38 : Divide weights of filling, of unsized 
warp, and of sizing by weight of the piece to get 
their respective percentages. 

Example: (As above.) What are percent- 
ages of warp, of filling, and of sizing? 

Answer: As the cut weighs 14.12 lbs. and the 
filling 6.07 lbs., the filling constitutes 6.07 divided 
by 14.12 or 43% of the total weight. Similarly 
we find the unsized warp to constitute 7.48 divided 
by 14.12 or 53%, while the sizing. constitutes 0.57 
divided by 14.12 or 4% of the total weight of the 
cloth. 

To find percentage of sizing on warp, know- 
ing percentage sizing in cloth: 

Rule 39 : Divide percentage of sizing in cloth 
by percentage of warp yarn in cloth. 

Example: A cloth as woven is composed of 
43% filling, 53% unsized warp, and 4% sizing. 
What is percentage of sizing on warp? 

Answer: If the sizing constitutes 4% of the 
total weight of the cloth and the warp yarn con- 
stitutes 53%, then there are 4 pounds of sizing to 
every 53 pounds of warp yarn. 4 divided by 53 
gives 7V2% of sizing on warp. Allowing for 
amount shaken and chafed off in weaving there 
must have been at least 8% sizing added to the 
weight of the warp yarn at the slasher. 

To find approximate percentage of filling and 
of sized warp, knowing width, sley, pick, and 
yarn counts: 

Rule 40: Divide total number of ends in the 



Q6 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

warp by the warp count to obtain relative weight 
of ivarp. Multiply picks per inch by width and di- 
vide by filling count to obtain relative weight of 
filling. Divide iveight of warp by sum of weights 
of tvarp and filling to obtain percentage of sized 
warp. Divide weight of filling by sum of weights 
of warp and filling to obtain percentage of filling. 

Example: A 4-yard sheeting is woven 36 
inches, 52x48, 17s.21s. What are the percentages 
of warp (sized) and filling in the cloth? 

Answer : Total ends in warp = 36 X 52 = 1872 
plus 48 selvage ends = 1920. 1920 -=- 17 = 112.9 
relative weight of warp. 

48 X 36 

= 82.3 relative weight of filling. 

21 

112.9 + 82.3 = 195.2 weight of warp and fill- 
ing. 

Then 112.9 -*- 195.2 = 57.8% warp (sized) . 
82.3 -v- 195.2 = 42.2% filling. 

To find approximate percentage of filling and 
of sized warp, knowing sley, pick, and yarn 
counts: 

Rule 41 : Divide sley by tvarp count, and pick 
by filling count to obtain relative weights of warp 
and filling. Divide each by their sum to obtain 
percentages of warp and filling. 

Example: What are approximate percentages 
of warp and Ailing in a cloth made with 52 ends 
of 17s and 48 picks of 21s to the square inch? 

Answers 

52 -=- 17 = 3.06 relative weight of sized warp. 

48 -f- 21 = 2.28 relative weight of filling. 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 67 

3.06 + 2.28 == 5.34 weight of warp and filling. 
Then 3.06-^-5.34 = 57.3% sized warp. 

2.28 -r- 5.34 = 42.7% filling. 
To find approximate percentage of sized 
warp, knowing 1 sley, pick, warp count, and aver- 
age yarn count: 

Rule 42 : Multiply sley by average yarn count; 
divide product by warp count and by total threads 
per square inch. 

Expressed as a formula this is EA -i-WT. 
Example: A pa jama check is made with 
72x80 ends per square inch; the warp count is 
30s and the average yarn count 34.9s. What is 
percentage of sized warp in the cloth? 
Answer : Percentage of sized warp = 
EA 72 X 34.9 

= = 55%. 

WT 30 X 152 

Note — The percentage of filling, from above, 
would therefore be 100 — 55 = 45%. If, how- 
ever, the problem had been to find the percentage 
of filling, knowing sley, pick, average yarn count, 
and filling, the latter being given as 41s, then we 
would have proceeded as follows: 

PA 80 X 34.9 

Percentage filling = = = 45%. 

FT 41 X 152 



SELE TION OF YARN COUNTS TO MAKE 
A CERTAIN CLOTH 



To find suitable yarn counts when widfth, 
weight and construction of cloth are gievn: 

Rule 43 : (a) Ascertain average yarn count by 
Rule 17, assuming an approximate cloth constant 
from knoivledge of similar goods, (b) Decide on 
a warp count, not too far removed from the av- 
erage yarn count, that fits best into the mill or- 
ganization. Also decide on percentage of size pre- 
ferred on warp, (c) Ascertain weight of sized 
ivarp in a convenient length of cloth, say 100 
yards, (d) Find weight of filling, for same length 
of cloth, by subtracting iveight of sized ivarp 
from weight of cloth, (e) The filling count is 
then found by multiplying width in reed by picks 
per inch and by length of cloth, and dividing by 
840 and by iveight of filling. 

Example: A mill receives an order for 36 
inch, 56x60, 4-yard sheeting. The problem to be 
solved is as to the warp and filling yarns to be 
used. 

Answer: (a) From experience with similar 
sheetings we may take 745 as approximately cor- 
rect for the cloth constant, Then the average 
yarn count = 

BYT 36 X 4 X 116 

A == = = 22.4s. 

C 745 

(b) In most instances the warp count is coarser 
than the filling and therefore coarser than the 
average yarn count. In this instance we may de- 
cide on 21s warp as best fitting into the existing 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 69 

organization and for the same reason decide on 
6% sizing to be put on the warp. 

(c) Before finding weight of sized warp it is 
necessary to find the length of warp from the 
slasher required to make a certain length of cloth. 
Turning to the table given for contraction on plain 
cloths and looking under the column headed 60 
(in this case picks crossed by the warp) it is seen 
that average yarn counts of 22s and 24s show 
contractions of 8.5% and 7.8% respectively and 
by interpolation the warp contraction correspond- 
ing to 22.4s average yarn count would be 8.36%. 
1 — 8.36% c = .9164. 100 divided by 91.64 gives 
109,12 as yards from slasher required to produce 
100 yards of cloth. The total ends in warp equal 
36 inches times 56 sley, or 2106, plus 40 selvage 
ends, or 2056 ends total. Then weight of sized 
warp in 100 yards cloth = 

2056 ends X 109.12 yds. warp X 1.06 for sizing 

-r- 21s warp yarn X 840 yds. in hank 
== 13.48 pounds. 

(d) Weight of 100 yards of 4-yard cloth == 100 
divided by 4 ="25 lbs. 25 — 13.48 = 11.52 lbs. 
filling. 

(e) From the table given for contraction on 
plain cloths and under the column headed 56 (in 
this case ends warp crossed by the filling) we 
find by interpolation that 22.4s average yarn count 
would give 7.38 % filling contraction. 1 — 7.38 = 
.9262. .9262 X 56 sley, divided by 2 ends to the 
dent, gives a reed of 25.93 dents to the inch. As 
reeds are rarely graded closer than half a dent 
it is necessary to use a 26 dent reed. Using a 26 
dent reed the corrected filling contraction will be 
56 minus 52, divided by 56, or 7.14%. 1 — 7.14% 
= .9286. The cloth width, 36 inches, divided by 



70 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

.9286, gives width in reed as 38.77 inches. Then 
filling yarn required = 

38.77 width in reed X 60 picks X 100 yds. cloth 
H- 840 yards in hank X 11.52 lbs. filling = 24s. 

Note — The fact that 21s warp and 24s filling 
have been proved above to be suitable yarns to 
use in making this cloth does not mean that they 
constitute the only yarn combination that can be 
employed. In fact scarcely any two mills use ex- 
actly the same counts and reports from seven 
Southern mills that regularly employ all or part 
of their looms in making what is sold as 36 inch, 
56x60, 4-yard grey sheeting show the following 
yarn combinations : (1) 20s.24s, (2) 20i/ 2 s.23i/ 2 s, 
(3) 21s.23s, (4) 21s.24s, (5) 22s.20i/ 2 s, (6) 
22s.22s, (7) 22s.25s. Doubtless other mills em- 
ploy still other yarns. 

There are various reasons for the use of dif- 
ferent yarns in making the same fabric. In many 
instances it is a case of convenience for it is to 
the interest of the mill to spin as few yarns as 
possible and if a mill is using 22s- warp in making 
other cloths it may prove more economical to use 
22s instead of 21s warp for this cloth also and in 
such case the filling would have to correspond to 
obtain the weight desired. The same is true as to 
the sizing and some mills size much heavier than 
others. Varying the percentage of sizing changes 
the center of gravity, that is, the average yarn 
count, and permits of a different yarn combina- 
tion. On automatic looms the yards of filling that 
can be put on a quill is not so important but in 
the case of non-automatic looms the finer the 
filling that can be used to obtain the desired result 
the better, as a longer length of filling on the quill 
means better production because of fewer 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 71 

changes of filling, and this fact is frequently a 
matter for consideration. On the other hand, 
having the warp slightly finer than the filling 
means that after sizing the two yarns will be more 
nearly uniform in diameter and this has its effect 
on the appearance of the cloth. 

The fact also has to be considered that the cloth 
is not always made exactly to the nominal speci- 
fications. Even where this is attempted the fact 
that it is impossible to spin exactly to count, im- 
possible to put exactly the same percentage of size 
on every cut, and impossible to use exactly the 
same tension on every loom so as to have the 
width invariable, is recognized in the trade to per- 
mit of a certain latitude. Advantage is taken of 
this leeway by some mills and the width, weight, 
or even the construction may regularly be run on 
the scant side of the nominal specifications. The 
extent to which this is allowable, however, de- 
pends largely on the nature of the trade to which 
the mill caters and some mills find it preferable 
to gain a reputation for their cloth by making it 
so that it will always average fully up to specifi- 
cations or even slightly over in width. 

It is seen that in the selection of counts to make 
this cloth there are various factors, outside of the 
simple calculations, to be considered and not only 
in this but in the case of other cloths, no matter 
how standard, there will be found differences from 
mill to mill. As an illustration take the case of 
the standard 38% inch, 64x60, 5.35-yard print 
cloth which is most typical of the American in- 
dustry today. A large number of mills use 30s 
warp and 40s filling but among other combina- 
tions in actual use are to be found the following : 
(2) 28s.38s, (3) 28s.40s, (4) 28s.42s, (5) 28s.44s, 



72 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

(6) 28i/ 2 s.403/ 2 s, (7) 29s.38s, (8) 29s.42s, (9) 
29i/ 2 s.39s, (10) 30s.38s, (11) 30s.41s, (12) 
30s.42s. As a further illustration consider the 
leader in the tobacco cloth constructions, which is 
variously known as tobacco cloth, shade cloth, 
gauze cloth, cotton bandage cloth, and bunting, 
the 38i/ 2 inch, 44x40, 8.20-yard goods that are 
made in large quantities in many mills. For cloth 
made to nominally the same specifications we find 
mills employing, among others, the following yarn 
combinations: (1) 28s.42s, (2) 29s.44s, (3) 
29s.39s, (4) 29s.40s, (5) 29s.42i/ ? s, (6) 29i/ 2 s.41s, 

(7) 30s.40s, (8) 30s.41s, (9) 30s.43s, (10) 
30s.44s. 

Assuming that the average mill attempts to 
make cloth as near as possible to the specifica- 
tions stated on its order and invoice it would 
seem, from a study of the yarn variations used 
in mak-ng the above and many other cloths, that, 
even allowing for the matter of convenience in fit- 
ting the manufacture of a particular cloth into the 
work of a mill making other cloths, many mills 
do not give the subject of yarn selection as much 
attention as it deserves. Certain it is that the 
correct selection of yarn counts is a matter that 
in itself often gives one mill an advantage over 
others, though this may be manifested in the ob- 
tainment of a better price for a better quality 
or in more economical cost of production. 

Incidentally it may be noted that the spread in 
the range between the warp and the filling counts 
usually increases with the fineness of the yarns. 
In ordinary staple sheetings the warp may be the 
same or a few numbers coarser than the filling, 
in ordinary print cloths the warp is usually 4 to 16 
counts coarser than the filling, whereas in staple 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 73 

fine plains the warp may be 15 to 50 or more 
counts coarser than the filling. (For instance 
heavy sheetings are largely 12s to 14s warp and 
13s to 17s filling, print cloths are largely 28s to 
30s warp and 38s to 44s filling, whereas India 
linons are largely 60s warp and 80s to 130s fill- 
ing.) In some classes of goods the filling is regu- 
larly coarser than the warp but this obtains more 
largely in goods that are more or less specialties 
such as blankets, flannelets, Canton flannel, repp, 
and tapestries. 

GREY CLOTH ANALYSIS 

Mills engaged in export trade are often asked to 
weave cloth "to sample," and this occurs not infre- 
quently in the domestic trade. The sample may be 
of any size but in many instances the mill is fur- 
nished only a small clipping and has to ascertain 
all particulars therefrom. 

In analyzing a sample for cloth duplication we 
may proceed in the following order : (1) Descrip- 
tion and weave, (2) width, (3) construction, 
(4) weight, (5) yarn counts and sizing, (6) reed 
and slashing length. 

In order to show the method of analysis with 
the greatest clearness we will here confine our- 
selves to the analysis of plain grey cloth, though 
the basic system is the same for fancy cloths. We 
will first discuss the analysis of a small clipping 
and then of a large sample. 

Analysis of a Small Clipping 
(1) Description and Weave. The class of cloth 
and the weave are found by inspection. In this 
instance we will suppose that the sample is that 
of a plain grey print cloth. 



74 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

(2) Width. In the case of a small sample for 
cloth duplication the customer specifies the width 
desired, and also usually the length of cut. In 
this case we will say that the cloth is desired in 
38%-inch width and in 60-yard cuts. 

(3) Construction. The ends and picks per 
square inch are ascertained with a pick counter. 
If the clipping is without selvage ends close in- 
spection is sometimes necessary to decide which 
is warp and which filling. In most instances, sup- 
posing the cloth is not back starched, the warp is 
easily identified by the fact that it carries sizing 
whereas the filling does not; the warp is also 
usually harder twisted than the filling. 

(4) Weight. The sample is cut to rectangular 
shape along warp and filling threads and weighed, 
using a balance that will weigh to the fraction of 
a grain. The larger the sample that can be cut 
the more accurate the determination of the weight 
of the cloth. 

To find, from a small sample, the weight of 
the cloth in yards per pound: 

Rule 44 : Multiply square inches in sample by 
7,000 {grains per pound) ; divide product by 36, 
by width of cloth in inches, and by weight of sam- 
ple in grains. 

This rule can be shortened as follows : 

Multiply square inches in sample by 194.4; di- 
vide product by width of cloth in inches and by 
tveight of sample in grains. 

Example : A sample cut 4 by 4 inches, having 
an area of 16 square inches, weighs 15.1 grains. 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 75 

Supposing the cloth is desired in 38%-inch width, 
what would it weigh in yards per pound? 

16 X 194.4 
Answer: = 5.35 yds. per lb. 

15.1 X 38.5 

Note — For cloth widths that will divide into 
194.4 without remainder the above rule can be 
shortened. For instance Rule 44 may be used as 
follows: Divide square inches in sample by 
weight of sample in grains. Multiply quotient by 
5.4 for 36-inch cloth, or 4.86 for 40-inch cloth, to 
get weight in yards per pound. 

To find, from a small sample, the weight of 
the cloth in ounces per linear yard: 

Rule 45 : Multiply weight of sample in grains 
by 36 and by width of cloth; divide product by 
square inches in sample and by 437.5 (grains per 
ounce) . 

Example: A sample containing 16 square 
inches weighs 15.1 grains. What is weight in 
ounces of a linear yard 38% inches wide? 
15.1 X 36 X 38.5 

Answer : = 2.99 ounces per 

16 X 437.5 linear yard. 

To find, from a small sample, the weight of 
the cloth in ounces per square yard: 

Rule 46 : Multiply weight of sample in grains 
by 1296 (square inches in a square yard) ; divide 
product by square inches in sample and by 437.5 
(grains per ounce) . 

Example: A sample containing 16 square 



76 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

inches weighs 15.1 grains. What is weight of a 
square yard in ounces? 

15.1 X 1296 

Answer: = 2.80 oz. per sq. yd. 

16 X 437.5 

(5) Yarn Counts and Sizing. The yarn count 
is the number of 840-yard hanks that weigh one 
pound (7,000 grains). Therefore the number of 
yards that weigh 8 1/3 grains equals the count; 
and the number of lengths of 4.32 inches each that 
weigh one grain equals the count. The count is 
also found by dividing any number of yards by 
their weight in grains and by .12. 

Comparing yarns with others of known size 
to determine the count is a very crude method 
that has no value except for rough approxima- 
tions. The correct yarn count can be found only 
by measuring and weighing. 

A ready method of ascertaining the yarn counts 
is afforded by a Universal Yarn Assorting Bal- 
ance and the template, about 2% inches square, 
that goes therewith. The sample is cut to tem- 
plate size and the scale is so adjusted that the 
number of threads from the cut sample that it 
takes to balance the arm indicates direct the count 
of the yarn being weighed. 

Another ready method is based on the fact that 
the count is equal to the number of lengths of 4.32 
inches each that weigh one grain. If 64 lengths 
of 4.32 inches each weigh one grain the count is 
64s; if 64 lengths of 4.32 inches weigh 2 grains 
the count is 32s, etc. The method of procedure 
can be stated as a rule. 

To find from a small sample, the yam counts 
in condition in cloth: 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 77 

Rule 47 : Cut sample 4.32 inches by 4.32 inches. 
Unravel one inch width of the warp yarns, smooth 
to remove the waviness caused by weaving and 
again cut to 4.32 inch length ; do the same with the 
filling yarns. The warp count (sized) is equal 
to the ends per inch divided by the weight in 
grains of this number of warp threads each 4.32 
inches long. The filling count is equal to the picks 
per inch divided by the weight in grains of this 
number of filling threads each 4.32 inches long. 

Example: A sample shows 64 ends and 60 
picks per square inch. 64 ends, each 4.32 inches 
long, weighs 2.45 grains. 60 picks, each 4.32 
inches long, weighs 1.45 grains. What are the 
yarn counts? 

Answer: The warp count (sized) = 64 divid- 
ed by 2.45 = 26.1s. The filling count = 60 di- 
vided by 1.45 = 41.4s. 

Note — To obtain the spun count of the warp 
the 64 ends, each 4.32 inches long, can be stripped 
of size by boiling and reweighed. Suppose they 
weigh, with allowance for natural moisture, 2.3 
grains. Then the spun count would be 64 divided 
by 2.3 or 27.8s. Allowing for the margin of error 
in obtaining grain weights of such short lengths 
we can consider that the warp was originally 28s 
and the filling, say, 42s. If the sized weight of 
the warp is 2.45 grains and the unsized weight 
2.3 grains, the percentage of sizing on warp is 
2.45 minus 2.30, divided by 2.30, or around 
6%%. 

Stripping. The size is removed by boiling the 
yarn in a weak solution of soda, or steeping in a 
weak solution of acid, followed by rinsing in clean 



78 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

water and drying. In drying the yarn is put in 
a glass jar or bottle which is placed in an oven. 
It is preferable to use a small drying oven to which 
is attached a thermometer and to bring the tem- 
perature up to 212 degrees. On removing the bot- 
tle, sufficient time should be allowed for cooling, 
and the yarn then extracted with pincers (to 
avoid moisture from the hands), and weighed. 
This gives the bone dry weight, to which is added 
7.834% to bring the yarn up to its natural condi- 
tion with 8!/2% moisture contents. 

(6) Reed and Slashing Length. Having ob- 
tained the width, weight, and yarn counts, the 
average yarn count can be ascertained from Rules 
17 or 21. The contraction in warp and in filling 
during weaving can then be found direct from the 
table given for contraction percentages in weav- 
ing plain cloths. Having the contractions the 
width in reed, and the reed required, also the 
slashing length, can be obtained by simple calcula- 
tion according to the rules previously given under 
those heads. 

Analysis of a Large Sample 

(1) Description and Weave. We will assume 
that, as before, inspection shows sample to be of 
plain grey print cloth. 

(2) Width.. In measuring the width care 
should be taken to get the full width intended 
without undue stretching. Width is found to be 
38!/2 inches. 

(3) Construction. The ends and picks per 
square inch are ascertained, as before, with a pick 
counter. The total ends in warp should be 
counted for exact accuracy or else the selvage ends 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 79 

counted and added to the product of the sley times 
the width inside of selvage. We will suppose, as 
before, that the construction is 64x60. The total 
ends in warp are found to be 2500. 

(4) Weight. One full yard, or more if avail- 
able, should be accurately weighed, and the weight 
in yards per pound found by dividing 7,000 by the 
weight of one linear yard in grains. If one yard 
weighs 1,308 grains then the cloth weighs 5.35 
yards to the pound. 

(5) Yarn Counts and Sizing. Unravel one 
inch, 60 picks, of filling and weigh; suppose this 
comes to 13.85 grains. If there are 60 picks per 
inch there are 60 X 36 or 2160 picks per yard 
and therefore the weight of the filling in a linear 
yard = 13.85 X 2160 divided by 60 == 498 grains. 
As the weight of the cloth equals 1308 grains, the 
weight of the sized warp in a linear yard equals 
1308 minus 498, or 810 grains. 

To obtain the length of filling pull out four con- 
tinuous picks, place two of the loops, made by the 
shuttle . in reversing, around a pin stuck in the 
edge of a table and carefully pull the other ends 
to remove the waviness caused in weaving, taking 
care to avoid undue elongation of the yarn. Sup- 
pose the length of pick is found to have been 41.2 
inches then the length of filling in a linear yard 
equals 2160 times 41.2 divided by 36, or 2472 
yards. 

To obtain the length of warp used pull out a 
couple of ends and carefully stretch to remove 
the waviness caused by weaving. Suppose the 
length is found to be 38.3 inches then the total 
length of warp in a linear yard of the cloth equals 
2500 (total ends) times 38.3 divided by 36, or 
2660 yards. 



80 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

The count of any yarn can be found by dividing 
the length in yards by the weight in grains 
times .12. Therefore from above the filling count 
would be 2472 divided by 498 and by .12, or 
41.3s. The warp count (sized) would be 2660 
divided by 810 and by .12, or 27.3s. 

The original spun count of the warp and the 
percentage of sizing can be ascertained, as in the 
case of the small clipping, by boiling to remove the 
size and again weighing. 

(6) Reed and Slashing Length. The length of 
the pick, which is the same as the width in reed, 
has been found under (5) to be 41.2 inches, and 
the filling contraction is therefore 41.2 minus 38.5 
divided by 41.2 or 6.55%. 1 — 6.55% = .945. If 
there are 64 ends per inch in the cloth the reed 
required is 64 times .945 divided by 2, or 30.14, 
say 30, dents per inch. 

Under (5) above it was found that 38.3 inches, 
equal to 1.064 yards, of warp yarn was contained 
in each 36-inch length as measured in the cloth. 
For 100 yards of cloth there would be required 
106.4 yards of warp, and for a 60-yard cut of 
cloth there would be required 60 X 1.064 or 63.84 
yards of warp from the slasher. 

PRODUCTION PROBLEMS. 

In almost any weave shed, but particularly in 
those making a variety of goods, production prob- 
lems are constantly coming up for solution, and in 
order to make the best use of the available looms 
these have to be solved intelligently and in many 
cases quickly. The main problem of course is as 
to the output that can be expected of a loom on a 
certain cloth, this being essential in fixing the rate 
per cut as well as in knowing how many looms 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 81 

to allocate to a certain order in order to finish it 
on time. Closely allied to production problems 
are those relating to the amount of warp and fitt- 
ing that will be required from week to week to 
keep loom production up to standard. 

Cloth Production. 

The yards of cloth produced per loom depend 
on the picks per inch, the picks per minute, and 
the time the loom is in actual operation. Theo- 
retical or 100% production is, of course, never 
attained in practice for there is more or less loss 
of time in piecing up broken ends and, in the case 
of non-automatic looms, in changing shuttles ; the 
loom also stands while the loom fixer is making 
adjustments or repairs, and while warps are being 
renewed. The amount of time lost depends on 
many factors such as the nature of the goods, the 
speed of the looms, the quality of the material, the 
skill of the weaver, the efficiency of the loom 
fixer, and the character of the management, so 
that there is a wide variation from mill to mill or 
even between two weavers in the same alley. 

The following percentages of full time produc- 
tion may be taken as indicative of good practice : 
85 to 95% production on automatic plain looms. 
80 to 90% production on plain looms. 
80 to 90% production on automatic looms with 

dobbies. 
75 to 85% production on drop-box looms. 
70 to 80% production on drop-box dobbies. 
60 to 70% production on Jacquards. 

There are some mills that attain a better pro- 
duction than the normal maximums stated but 
there are a large number that for various reasons 
fall under the normal minimums given. 



82 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

To find 100% production (no allowance for 
stops), in 60 hours: 

Rule 48: Multiply picks per minute by 100 
and divide by picks per inch. 

Example: A loom on 36 inch, 48x48, 3-yard 
sheeting is run at 180 picks per minute. What is 
theoretical or 100% production in 60 hours? 

180 X 100 

Answer : = 375 yards. 

48 

Note — This is a very convenient rule to remem- 
ber as a basis, even though mills no longer work 
60 hours. Knowing 100% production in 60 hours, 
100% production in any other period of time can 
be obtained by proportion. Thus 100% produc- 
tion in 55 hours = 11/12 times 375 = 343.75 
yards, and 100% production in 48 hours = 
.8 X 375 = 300 yards, since 55 hours is eleventh- 
twelfths and 48 hours is eight-tenths of 60 hours. 

To find 100% production (no allowance for 
stops), in any number of hours: 

Rule 49 : Multiply picks per minute by total 
minutes weave shed is run; divide product bp 
picks per inch and by 36. 

Example : A loom on 48 pick goods is run at 
180 picks per minute. What is 100% production 
in a full-time week of 55 hours? 

180 X 60 X 55 

Answer: = 343.75 yards. 

48 X 36 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 83 

To find yards woven per loom per week: 

Rule 50: Multiply picks per minute by 60 
(minutes in hour) , by full-time hours, and by per 
cent of theoretical production attained; divide 
product by picks per inch and by 36 (inches in 
yard) . 

Example: A loom on 38% inch, 44x40, 8.20- 
yard tobacco cloth is run at 174 picks per minute. 
What is 85% production in a full time week of 55 
hours ? 

174 X 60 X 55 X .85 

Answer : = 338.9 yds. 

40 X 36 

To find cuts of cloth woven per loom per 
week: 

Rule 51 : Multiply picks per minute by 60, by 
fidl-time hours, and by per cent of theoretical 
production attained; divide product by picks per 
inch, by 36, and by yards per cut. 

Example : A loom on 40 pick goods is run at 
174 picks per minute. How many cuts of 60 yards 
each are obtained in a week of 55 hours, assuming 
85% loom efficiency? 

174 X 60 X 55 X .85 
Answer: = 5.65 cuts. 

40 X 36 X 60 

Note — Since 60 and 36 are constants it is pos- 
sible to slightly shorten the two preceding rules 
by substituting division by .6 in place of multiply- 
ing by 60 and dividing by 36. 



84 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

To find yards woven per loom per week, using 
constants: 

Rule 52: Multiply picks per minute by the 
constant desired in the following list and divide 
by picks per inch. 





Constant 


Constant 


Constant 


Per Cent of 


to Use for 


to Use for 


to Use for 


Production. 


48 Hours. 


55 Hours. 


60 Hours. 


50 


40 


45.8 


50 


55 


44 


50.4 


55 


60 


48 


55 


60 


65 


52 


59.6 


65 


70 


56 


64.2 


70 


75 


60 


68.8 


75 


80 


64 


73.3 


80 


85 


68 


77.9 


85 


87% 


70 


80.2 


871/2 


90 


72 


82.5 


90 


92V 2 


74 


84.8 


921/2 


95 


76 


87.1 


95 


100 


80 


91.7 


100 



Example : A loom on 40 pick goods is run at 
174 picks per minute. Assuming production to 
be 85% of the theoretical, how many yards are 
woven per week of 55 hours ? 

174 X 77.9 

Answer: = 338.9 yards. 

40 

To find yards woven per loom per week, using 
production table: 

Rule 53 : Multiply the 100% production shown 
per loom per hour by hours run and by percentage 
of theoretical production attained. 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 85 

Example: A loom on 80 pick goods is run at 
165 picks per minute. Assuming production to be 
85% of the theoretical, how many yards are 
woven per week of 55 hours? 

Answer: According to the table theoretical 
100% production per loom per hour would be 
3.44 yards, therefore actual production in 55 
hours would be 3.44 X 55 X .85 = 160.8 yards. 

To find loom eff icency when loom speed, picks 
per inch, and yards woven in a stated time, 
are known: 

Rule 54 : Multiply picks per inch by .6 and by 
yards woven; divide by picks per minute and by 
hours run. 

Note— The .6 is obtained by dividing 36 (inches 
per yard) by 60 (minutes in hour). 

Example : A loom running 136 picks per min- 
ute on 60 inch, 60x56, 2.75-yard wide sheeting 
gets off 190 yards in a week of 55 hours. What 
is efficiency of loom ? 

56 X .6 X 190 

Answer: = 85.3% production 

136 X 55 

To find pounds of cloth produced per loom per 

week: 

Rule 55: Multiply picks per minute by min- 
utes operated (allowing for stops) ; divide product 
by picks per inch, by 36, and by yards per pound. 

Example: A loom on 38% inch, 64x64, 5.15- 
yard print cloth is changed to 36 inch, 20x16, 21- 



86 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

yard gauze cloth for surgical dressings. Assum- 
ing speed of 170 picks per minute and production 
of 85% to be the same in both cases, what are the 
relative pounds of cloth produced? 

170 X 60 X 55 x.85 

Answer: = 40.19 lbs. of 

64 X 36 X 5.15 
5.15-yard print cloth 

l 170 X 60 X 55 X 85 

[" — =-39.42 lbs. of 21- 

\l - 16 X 36 X 21 yd. gauze cloth. 

Note — The above illustration is reminiscent of 
war time changes. Many mills that were called 
on by the Government to change from print cloths 
to gauze cloths (commonly known as tobacco 
cloth construction) found that there was practi- 
cally no change in the yarn counts or in the 
amounts of yarn required from the spinning 
room, nor in the pounds of cloth that could be 
produced if warps were available, but that it was 
impossible to change over the whole mill to the 
faster-running gauze cloths because of lack of 
slasher capacity. While the pounds of warp re- 
quired might be the same, the fewer ends in the 
gauze cloth warps meant that two or three times 
as many yards of warp must be put through the 
slashers and it was impossible to speed them up 
to anything like this proportion. 

To estimate time required to weave a certain 
length of cloth. 

Kule 56 : Multiply picks per inch by .6 and by 
yards of cloth desired; divide product by picks per 
minute and by per cent production estimated. 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 87 

Example: Loom is running at 160 picks per 
minute on 39 inch, 68x72, 4.75 yard print cloth. 
Figuring on 90% production, how long would it 
take to exhaust a loom beam that holds warp 
enough for 1,200 yards (20 cuts of 60 yards each) 
of cloth? 

72 X .6 X 1,200 

Answer : = 360 hours, or 6 

160 X .90 
weeks (of 55 hours) and 3 days. 

To estimate looms require to fill an order in 
a certain time: ** I 

Rule 57: Multiply yards cloth required by .6 
and by picks per inch; divide product by picks per 
minute, by percentage of theoretical production 
estimated, and by hours allozved for filling order. 

Example : A mill accepts an order for 100,000 
yards of 39 inch, 68x72, 4.75-yard print cloth to 
be shipped within 6 weeks. Mill works 55 hours 
a week and on these goods runs looms at 160 picks 
per minute, obtaining about 90% production. How 
many looms should be allocated to this order? 

100,000 X .6 X 72 

Answer: = 91 looms. 

160 X .90 X 330 

Weaver's Wages 

To find weekly wages of a weaver on a par- 
ticular cloth: 

Rule 58 : Multiply total cuts produced by rate 
of payment per cut. 

Example : A weaver tends 12 plain looms, fit- 
ted with warp stop motions and running at 160 



88 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

picks per minute, on 43 inch, 68x76, 30s.36s, 4- 
yard twill. He is paid 50 cents per cut of 60 yards 
and gets off 85% production? How much does he 
make in a 55-hour week? 

Answer: By Rule 51 the production per set 

12 X 160 X 55 X .85 

of 12 looms would be == 

76 X .6 X 60 
31.75 cuts total per week. Then his weekly 
wages =31.75 X $0.50 = $15.88 a week. 

To find rate per cut on a new cloth to give 
equivalent wages per week: 

Eule 59 : Ascertain cuts per week obtainable 
on the new cloth and divide into former wages 
per week. 

Example : A weaver on 12 plain looms is mak- 
ing $15.88 a week. It is proposed to give him 20 
automatic looms, running at 160 picks per minute, 
on 39 inch, 68x72, 30s.40s, 4.75 yard print cloth. 
If he is assumed to get off 90% production, how 
much will he have to be paid per cut of 60 yards 
to give him approximately the same weekly re- 
turn ? 

Example: Using Rule 51 the production per 
20 looms on the new cloth would be 

20 X 160 X 55 X .90 

= 61.11 cuts total per week. 

72 X .6 X 60 
Then $15.88 divided by 61.11 = 26 cents per cut. 

Note : In changing to a cloth where the work 
is easier so that a weaver is not entitled to as 
high returns, or to a cloth where more work or 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 89 

greater skill is required so that the weaver is en- 
titled to a greater remuneration, the same system 
applies in that the probable cuts per week should 
be first determined and then divided into the 
weekly wages that are regarded as fair for the 
work to be done. 

To find weekly wages per loom: 

Rule 60: Divide weekly wages by looms op- 
erated. 

Example: On 43 inch, 4-yard twill a weaver 
on 12 plain looms makes $15.88 and on 39 inch, 
4.75-yard print cloth a weaver on 20 automatic 
looms makes $15.88 a week. What is weekly wage 
cost per loom? 

Answer: The weekly wage cost per loom is 
$15.88 divided by 12 or $1,325 on the plain looms 
and $15.88 divided by 20 or $0,794 on the auto- 
matic looms. 

To find weaver's wages per pound of cloth: 

Rule 61 : Divide rate per cut by pounds per 
cut. 

Example: A weaver on 43 inch, 4-yard twill 
is paid 50 cents a cut of 60 yards and a weaver 
on 39 inch, 4.75-yard print cloth is paid 26 cents 
a cut of 60 yards. How much is paid per pound 
of cloth : 

Answer : A 60-yard cut of 4-yard twill weighs 
15 pounds and a 60-yard cut of 4.75-yard print 
cloth weighs 12.63 pounds. On the twill the mill 
is paying 50 divided by 15 or 3.33 cents a pound, 
and on the print cloth 26 divided by 12.63 or 2.06 
cents a pound, as weaver's wages. 



90 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 



(1) 

YARDS OF CLOTH PER LOOM PER HOUR 
(100% Production) 

PICKS PER MINUTE 



Picks 
















135 








per 


100 


105 


110 


115 


120 


125 


130 


140 


145 


150 


Inch. 
























20 


8.33 


8.75 


9.17 


9.58 


10.00 


10.42 


10.83 


11.25 


11.67 


12.08 


12.50 


22 


7.58 


7.95 


8.33 


8.71 


9.09 


9.47 


9.85 


10.23 


10.61 


10.98 


11.36 


24 


6.94 


7.29 


7.64 


7.99 


8.33 


8.68 


9.03 


9.37 


9.72 


10.07 


10.42 


26 


6.41 


6.73 


7.05 


7.37 


7.69 


8.01 


8.33 


8.65 


8.97 


9,29 


9.62 


28 


5.95 


6.25 


6.55 


6.85 


7.14 


7.44 


7.74 


8.04 


8.33 


8.63 


8.93 


30 


5.56 


5.83 


6.11 


6.39 


6.67 


6.94 


7.22 


7.50 


7.78 


8.06 


8.33 


32 


5.21 


5.47 


5.73 


5.99 


6.25 


6.51 


$.77 


7.03 


7.29 


7.55 


7.81 


34 . 


4.90 


5.15 


5.39 


5.64 


5.88 


6.13 


6.37 


6.62 


6.86 


7.11 


7.35 


36 


4.63 


4.86 


5.09' 


5.32 


5.56 


5.79 


6.02 


6.25 


6.48 


6.71 


6.94 


38 


4.39 


4.61 


4.82 


5.04 


5.26 


5.48 


5.70 


5.92 


6.14 


6.36 


6.58 


40 


4.17 


4.37 


4.58 


4.79f 


' 5.00 


5.21 


5.42 


5.63 


5.83 


6.04 


6.25 


42 


3.97 


4.17 


4.37 


4.56 


4.76 


4.96 


5.16 


5.36 


5.56 


5.75 


5.95 


44 


3.79 


3.98 


4.17 


4.36/ 


4.55 


4.73 


4.92 


5.11 


5.30 


5.49 


5.68 


46 


3.62 


3.80 


3.99 


4.17 


4.35 


4.53 


4.71 


4.89 


5.07 


5.25 


5.43 


48 


3.47 


3.65 


3.82> 


3.99 


4.17 


4.34 


4.51 


4.69 


4.86 


5.03 


5.21 


50 


3.33 


3.50 


3.67 


3.83 


4.00 


4.17 


4.33 


4.50 


4.67 


4.83 


5.00 


52 


3.21 


3.37 


3.53 


3.69 


3.85 


4.01 


4.17 


4.33 


4.49 


4.65 


4.81 


54 


3.09 


3.24 


3.40 


3.55 


3.70 


3.86 


4.01 


4.17 


4.32 


4.48 


4.63 


56 


2.98 


3.13 


3.27 


3.42 


3.57 


3.72 


3.87 


4.02 


4.17 


4.32 


4.46 


58 


2.87 


3.02 


3.16 


3.30 


3.45 


3.59 


3.74 


3.88 


4.02 


4.17 


4.31 


60 


2.78 


2.92 


3.06 


3.19 


3.33 


3.47 


3.61 


3.75 


3.89 


4.03 


4.17 


62 


2.69 


2.82 


2.96 


3.09 


3.23 


3.36 


3.49 


3.63 


3.76 


3.90 


4.03 


64 


2.60 


2.73 


2.86 


2.99 


3.13 


3.26 


3.39 


3.52 


3.65 


3.78 


3.91 


66 


2.53 


2,65 


2.78 


2.90 


3.03 


3.16 


3.28 


3.41 


3.54 


3.66 


3.79 


68 


2.45 


2.57 


2.70 


2.82 


2.94 


3.06 


3.19 


3.31 


3.43 


3.55 


3.68 


70 


2.38 


2.50 


2.62 


2.74 


2.86 


2.98 


3.10 


3.21 


3.33 


3.45 


3.57 


72 


2.31 


2.43 


2.55 


2.66 


2.78 


2.89 


3.01 


3.13 


3.24 


3.36 


3.47 


74 


2.25 


2.36 


2.48 


2.59 


2.70 


2.82 


2.93 


3.04 


3.15 


3.27 


3.38 


76 


2.19 


2.30 


2.41 


2.52 


2.63 


2.74 


2.85 


2.96 


3.07 


3.18 


3.29 


78 


2.14 


2.24 


2.35 


2.46 


2.56 


2.67 


2.78 


2.88 


2.99 


3.10 


3.21 


80 


2.08 


2.19 


2.29 


2.40 


2,50 


2.60 


2171 


2.81 


2.92 


3.02 


3.13 


82 


2.03 


2.13 


2.24 


2.34 


2.44 


2.54 


2.64 


2.74 


2,85 


2.95 


3.05 


84 


1.98 


2.08 


2.18 


2.28 


2.38 


2.48 


2.58 


2.68 


2.78 


2.88 


2.98 


86 


1.94 


2.03 


2.13 


2.2S 


2.33 


2.42 


2.52 


2.62 


2.71 


2.81 


2.91 


88 


1.89 


1.99 


2.08 


2.18 


2.27 


2.37 


2.46 


2.56 


2.65 


2.75 


2.84 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 91 



(2) 



YARDS OF CLOTH PER LOOM PER HOUR 
(100% Production) 



PICKS PER MINUTE 


Picks 


I | 


1 1 1 




| 




per 
Inch. 


155 | 160 [ 165 

1 1 


170 | 175 | 180 | 185 


190 


195 | 200 


205 


20 


12,92|13.33|13.75|14.17|14.58|15.00|15.42|15.83 


16.25116.67 


17.08 


22 


|11.74 


l|12.15 


■J12.5C 


|12.88|13.26|13.64|14.02|14.39|14.77|15.15 


15.53 


24 


|10.7( 


>|11.11 


1 11.46 


|11.81|12.15|12.50|12.85|13.19|13.54 


13.89 


14.24 


26 


9.94 


10.26 


10.58 


10.90 


11.2)2 


11.54 


11.86 


12.18 


12.50 


12.82 


13.14 


28 


9.23 


9.52 


9.82 


10.12 


10.42 


10.71 


11.01 


11.31 


11.61 


11.90 


12.20 


30 


8,61 


8.89 


9.17 


9.44 


9.72 


10.00 


10.28 


10.55 


10.83 


11.11 


11.39 


32 


8.07 


8.33 


8.59 


8.85 


9.11 


9.37 


9.64 


9.90 


10.16 


10.42 


10.68 


34 


7.60 


7.84 


8.09 


8.33 


8.58 


8.82 


9.07 


9.31 


9.56 


9.80 


10.05 


36 


7.18 


7.41 


7.64 


7.87 


8.10 


8.33 


8.56 


8.80 


9.03 


9.26 


9.49 


38 


6.80 


7.02 


7.24 


7.46 


7.68 


7.89 


8.11 


8.33 


8.55 


8.77 


8.99 


40 


6.46 


6.67 


6.87 


7.08 


7.29 


7.50 


7*71 


| 7.92 


| 8.13 


8.33 


8.54 


42 


6.15 


6.35 


6.55 


6.75 


6.94 


7.14 


7.34 


7.54 


7.74 


7.94 


8.13 


44 


5.87 


6.06 


6.25 


6.44 


6.63 


6.82 


7.01 


7.20 


7.39 


7,58 


7.77 


46 


5.62 


5.80 


5.98 


6.16 


6.34 


6.52 


6.70 


6.88 


7.07 


7.25 


7.43 


48 


5.38 


5.56 


5.73 


5.90 


6.08 


6.25 


6.42 


6.60 


6.77 


6.94 


7.12 


50 


5.17 


5.33 


5.50 


5.67 


5.83 


6.00 


6.17 


6.33 


6.50 


6.67 


6.83 


52 


4.97 


5.13 


5.29 


5.45 


5.61 


5.77 


5.93 


6.09 


6.25 


6.41 


6.57 


54 


4.78 


4.94 


5.09 


5.25 


5.40 


5.56 


5.71 


5.86 


6.02 


6.17 


6.33 


56 


4.61 


4.76 


4.91 


5.06 


5.21 


5.36 


5.51 


5.65 


5.80 


5.95 


6.110 


58 


4.45 


4.60 


4.74 


4.88 


5.03 


5.17 


5.32 


5.46 


5.60 


5.75 


5.89 


60 


4.31 


4.44 


4,58 


4.72 


4.86 


5.00 


5.14 


5.28 


5.42 


5.56 


5.69 


62 


4.17 


4.30 


4.44 


4.57 


4.70 


4.84 


4.97 


5.11 


5.24 


5.38 


5.51 


64 


4.04 


4.17 


4.30 


4.43 


4.56 


4.69 


4.82 


4.95 


5.08 


5.21 


5.34 


66 


3.91 


4.04 


4.17 


4.29 


4.42 


4.55 


4.67 


4.80 


4.92 


5.05 


5.18 


68 


3.80 


3.92 


4.04 


4.17 


4.29 


4.41 


4.53 


4.66 


4.78 


4.90 


5.02 


70 


3.69 


3.81 


3.93 


4.05 


4.17 


4.29 


4.40 


4.52 


4.64 


4.76 


4.88 


72 


| 3.59J 3.7C 


| 3.82 


| 3.94| 4.05 


| 4.17 


| 4.28 


| 4.40 


| 4.51 


| 4.63 


4.75 


74 


3.49] 3.60 


3.72 


3.83] 3.94 


4.05 


4.17 


4.28 


4.39 


4,50 


4.62 


76 


3.40J 3.51 


3.62 


3.73| 3.84 


3.95 


4.06 


4.17 


4.28 


4.39 


4.50 


78 


3.31| 3.42 


3.53 


3.63| 3.74 


3.85 


3.95 


4.06 


4.17 


4,271 4.38 


80 


3.23J 3.33 


3.44 


3.54| 3.65 


3.75 


3.85 


3.96 


4.06 


4.17| 4.27 


82 


3.15| 3.25 


3.35 


3.46| 3.56 


3.66 


3.76 


3.86 


3.96 


4.07| 4.17 


84 


3.08| 3.17 


3.27 


3.37| 3.47 


3.57 


3.66 


3.77 


3.87 


3.97| 4.07 


86 


3.00| 3.10 


3.20 


3.29| 3.39 


3.49 


3.58 


3.68 


3.78 


3.88| 3.97 


88 


2.94 


3.03 


3.13 


3.22 


3.31 


3.41 


3.50 


3.60 


3.69 


3.79 


3.88 



92 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 



(3) 

YARDS OF CLOTH PER LOOM PER HOUR 
(100% Production) 

PICKS PER MINUTE 



Picks 




















per 


100 


105 


110 


115 


120 


125 130 


135 I 140 


145 


150 


Inch. 












[ 


J 






90 


1.85 


1.94 


2.04 


2.13 


2.22 


2.31 


2.41 


2-50 


2.59 


2.69 


2.78 


92I 


1.81 


1.90 


1.99 


2.08 


2.17 


2.26 


2.36 


2.45 


2.54 


2.63 


2.72 


94 


1.77 


1.86 


1.95 


2.04 


2.13 


2.22 


2.30 


2.39 


2.48 


2.57 


2.66 


96 


1.74 


1.82 


1.91 


2.00 


2.08 


2.17 


12.26 


2.34 


2.43 


2.52 


2.60 


98 


1.70 


1.79 


1.87 


1.96 


2.04 


2.13 


2.21 


2.30 


2.38 


2.47 


2.55 


100 


1.67 


1.75 


1.83 


1.92 


2.00 


2.08 


2.17 


2.25 


2.33 


2.42 


2.50 


102 


1.63 


1.72 


1.80 


1.88 


1.96 


2.04 


2.12 


2.21 


2.29 


2.37 


2.45 


104 


1.60 


1.68 


1.76 


1.84 


1.92 


2.00 


2.08 


2.16 


2.24 


2.32 


2.40 


106 


1.57 


1.65 


1.73 


1.81 


1.89 


1.97 


2.04 


2.12 


2.20 


2.28 


2.36 


108 


1.54 


1.62 


1.70 


1.77 


1.85 


1.93 


2.01 


2.08 


2.16 


2.24 


2.31 


110 


1.52 


1.59 


1.67 


1.74 


1.82 


1.89 


1.97 


2.05 


2.12 


2.20 


2.27 


112 


1.49 


1.56 


1.64 


«1.71 


1.79 


1.86 


1.93 


2.01 


2.08 


2.16 


2.23 


114 


1.46' 


1.54 


1.61 


1.68 


1.75 


1.83 


1.90 


1.97 


2.05 


2.12 


2.19 


116 


1.44 


1.51 


1.58 


1.65 


1.72 


1.80 


1.87 


1.94 


2.01 


2.08 


2.16 


118 


1.41 


1.48 


1.55 


1.62 


1.69 


1.77 


1.84 


1.91 


1.98 


2.05 


2.12 


120 


1.39 


1.46 


1.53 


1.60 


1.67 


1.74 


1.81 


1.87 


1.94 


2.01 


2.08 


122 


1.37 


1.43 


1.50 


1.57 


1.64 


1.71 


1.78 


1.84 


1.91 


1.98 


2.04 


124 


1.34 


1.41 


1.48 


1.55 


1.61 


1.68 


1.75 


1.81 


1.88 


1.95 


2.01 


126 


1.32 


1.39 


1.46 


1.52 


1.59 


1.65 


1.72 


1.79 


1.85 


1.92 


1.98 


128 


1.30 


1.37 


1.43 


1.50 


1.56 


1.63 


1.69 


1.76 


1.82 


1.89 


1.95 


130 


1.28 


1.35 


1.41 


1.47 


1.54 


1.60 


1.67 


1.73 


1.79 


1.86 


1.92 


134 


1.24 


1.31 


1.37 


1.43 


1.49 


1.55 


1.62 


1.68 


1.74 


1.80 


1.87 


136 


1.23 


1.29 


1.35 


1.41 


1.47 


1.53 


1.59 


1.65 


1.72 


1.78 


1.84 


140 


1.19 


1.25 


1.31 


1.37 


1.43 


1.49 


1.55 


1.61 


1.67 


1.73 


1.79 


144 


1.16| 1.22 


1.27 


1.33 


1.39 


1.45 


1.50 


1.56 


1.62 


1.68 


1.74 


146 


1.14 1.20 


1.26 


1.31 


1.37 


1.43 


1.48 


1.54 


1.60 


1.66 


1.71 


150 


1.11 1.17 


1.22 


1.28 


1.33 


1.39 


1.44 


1.50 


1.56 


1.61 


1.67 


154| 


| 1.08| 1.14| 1.19| 1.24| 1.301 1.35 


1.41) 1.46 


1.52 


1.57 1.62 


156| 


| 1.07J 1.12| 1.18 1.23| 1.28| 1.34 


1.39| 1.44 


1.50 


1.55 


1.60 


160 


| 1.04| 1.091 1.151 1.20| 1.25 


1.30 


1.35 


1.41 


1.46 


1.51 


1.56 


164 


1.02J l.(07| 1.12| 1.17| 1.22 


1.27 


1.32 


1.37 


1.42 


1.47 


1.52 


166 


| 1.00| 1.05] 1.10| 1.15-1 1.20 


1.26 


1.31 


1.35 


1.41! l- 4 6 


1.51 


170 


| .98| 1.03| 1.08| 1.131 1.18 


1.23 


1.27 


1.32 


1.37J 1.42 


1.47 


174. 


| .96} l.Olj 1.05| 1.10J 1.15 


1.20 


1.25 


1.29 


1.34} 1.39 


1.44 


176 


! .95| .991 1-041 1.09! 1-14 


1.18 


1.23 


1.28 


1.331 1-37 


1.42 


180 


| .93 


! .97 


( 1.02 


J 1.06 


! i.n 


1.16 


1.20 


1.25 


1.30 


1.34 


1.39 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 



93 



(4) 

YARDS OF CLOTH PER LOOM PER HOUR 
(100% Production) 











PICKS PER MINUTE 








Picks 


| 


















per 


I 155 1 160 1 165 


170 


175 


180 


185 


190 


195 


200 


205 


Inch. 


1 1 


















90 


2.871 2.961 3.06 


3.15 


3.24 


3.33 


3.43 


3.52 


3.61 


3.70 


3.80 


92 


2.81 2.90 2.99 


3.08 


3.17 


3.26 


3.35 


3.44 


3.53 


3.62 


3.71 


94 


| 2.75| 2.84| 2.93| 3.01 


3.10 


3.19 


3.28 


3.37 


3.46 


3.55 


3.63 


96 


2.69 


2.78 


; 2.8G 


2.95 


3.04 


3.13 


3.21 


3.30 


3.39 


3.47 


3.56 


98 


2.64 


2.72 


2.81 


2.89 


2.98 


3.06 


3.15 


3.23 


3.32 


3.40 


3.49 


100 


2.58 


12.67 


2.75 


2.83 


2.92 


3.00 


3.08 


3.17 


3.25 


3.33 


3.44 


102 


2.53 


2.61 


2.70 


2,78 


2.86 


2.94 


3.02 


3.10 


3.19 


3.27 


3.35 


104.. 


•2.48 


2.56 


2.64 


2.72 


2.80 


2.88 


2.96 


3.04 


3.13 


3,21 


3.29 


106 


2.44 


2.52 


2.59 


2.67 


2.75 


2.83 


2.91 


2.99 


3.07 


3.14 


3.22 


108 


2.39 


2.47 


2.55 


2.62 


2.70 


2.78 


2.85 


2.93 


3.01 


3.09 


3.16 


110 


2.35 


2.42 


2.50 


2.5? 


2.65 


2.73 


2.80 


2.88 


2.95 


3.03 


3.11 


112 


2.31 


2.38 


2.46 


2.53 


2.60 


2.68 


2.75 


2.83 


2.90 


2.98 


3.05 


114 


2.27 


2.34 


2.41 


2.49 


2.56 


2.63 


2.70 


2.78 


2.85 


2.92 


3.00 


116 


2.23 


2.30 


2.37 


2.44 


2.51 


2.59 


2.66 


2.73 


2.80 


2.87 


2.95 


118 


2.19 


-2.26 


2.33 


2.40 


2.47 


2.54 


2.61 


2.68 


2.75 


2.82 


2.90 


120 


2.15 


2.22 


2.29 


2.36 


2.43 


2.50 


2.57 


2.64 


2.71 


2.78 


2.85 


122 


2.12 


2.19 


2.25 


2.32 


2.39 


2.46 


2.53 


2.60 


2.66 


2,73 


2.80 


124 


2.08 


2.15 


2.22 


2.28 


2.35 


2.42 


2.49 


2.55 


2.62 


2.69 


2.76 


126 


2.05 


2.12 


2.18 


2.25 


2.31 


2.38 


2.45 


2.51 


2.58 


2.65 


2.71 


128 


2.02 


2.08 


2.15 


2.21 


2.28 


2.34 


2.41 


2.47 


2.54 


2.60 


2.67 


130 


1.99 


2,05 


2.12 


2.18 


2.24 


2.31 


2.37 


2.44 


2.50 


2.56 


2.63 


134 


1.93 


1.99 


2.05 


2.11 


2.18 


2.24 


2.30 


2.36 


2.43 


2.49 


2.55 


136 


1.90 


1.96 


2.02 


2.08 


;2.14 


2.21 


2.27 


2.33 


2.39 


2.45 


2.51 


140 


1.85 


1.90 


1.96 


2.02 


2,08 


2.14 


2.20 


2.26 


2.32 


2.38 


2.44 


. 144 


1.79 


1.85 


1.91 


1.97 


2.03 


2.08 


2.14 


2.20 


2.26 


2.31 


2.37 


146 


1.77 


1.83 


1.88 


1.94 


2.00 


2.05 


2.11 


2.17 


2.23 


2.28 


2.34 


150 


1.72 


1.78 


1.83 


1.89 


1.94 


2.00 


2.06 


2.11 


2.17 


2.22 


2.28 


154 


1.68 


1.73 


1.79 


1.84 


1.89 


1.95 


2.00 


2.06 


2.11 


2.16 


2.22 


156 


1.66 


1.71 


1.76 


1.82 


1.87 


1.92 


1.98 


2.03 


2.08 


2.14 


2.19 


160 


1.61 


1.67 


1.72 


1.77 


1.82 


1.87 


1.93 


1.98 


2.03 


2.08 


2.14 


164 


1.58 


1.63 


1.68 


1.73 


1.78 


1.83 


1.88 


1.93 


1.98 


2.03 


2.08 


166 


1,56 


1.61 


1.66 


1.71 


1.76 


1.81 


1.86 


1.91 


1.96 


2.01 


2.06 


170 


1.52 


1.57 


1.62| 1.67 


1.72 


1.76 


1.81 


1.86 


1.91 


1.96 


2.01 


174 


1.48 


1.54 


1.58| 1.63 1.68J 1.7)2 


1.77 


1.82 


1.87 


1.92 


1.96 


176 


1.47 


1.52 


1.56) 1.61J 1.66| 1.70 


1.75 


1.80 


1.85 


1.89 


1.94 


180 


1.44 


1.48 


1.53 


1.57 


1.62 


1.67 


1.71 


1.76 


1.81 


1.85 


1.90 



94 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

Warp and Filling Required from Spinning 
Room 

The filling usually goes direct from the spindle 
to the shuttle and the only waste made is that at 
the loom itself. The warp undergoes several in- 
termediate processes, such as spooling, warping, 
slashing, and drawing in, and more or less waste 
is made at each process in addition to waste at 
the loom. Some mills condition their filling yarns 
with the result that not only does the work run 
better but more pounds of filling are woven than 
are spun. In a large number of instances the 
sizing added at the slasher more than compen- 
sates for all warp waste between the spun yarn 
and the finished cloth. The weight of the cloth 
may therefore be more or it may be less than the 
weight of the yarns as spun for its manufacture. 
It is rare, however, that the percentages of warp 
yarn and of filling yarn in the woven cloth are 
exactly the same as the percentages of warp yarn 
and of filling yarn required from the spinning 
frame. In order to avoid an over or under sup- 
ply of warp or of filling it is often of importance 
to know how to figure so as to ensure an exact 
balance between spinning and weaving. 

To find warp and filling required to be spun 
So fill a certain cloth order: 

Rule 62: Ascertain weight of filling in cloth 
by Rule 35 and divide by 1 minus percentage fill- 
ing waste to get weight of filling to be spun. As- 
certain weight of unsized ivarp by Rule 36 and 
divide by 1 minus percentage ivarp waste to get 
weight of warp to be spun. 

Example : A mill receives an order for 425,000 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 95 

yards (100,000 pounds) of 39 inch, 72x76, 4.25- 
yard print cloth. Assuming 3% filling waste to 
be made at the loom and 5% warp waste to be 
made between the spun yarn and the woven 
cloth, how much warp and filling must be spun to 
fill this order? 

Answer : As shown in the example given un- 
der Rules 35 and following, the woven cloth is 
composed of 53% warp yarn, 4% sizing, and 43% 
filling, therefore 100,000 pounds of the cloth is 
composed of 53,000 pounds of warp yarn and 43,- 
000 pounds of filling yarn in addition to 4,000 
pounds of sizing. 

The warp required from the spinning frame 
will be 53,000 divided by 1 minus 5%, or .95, 
which is 55,790 pounds. The filling required from 
the spinning frame will be 43,000 divided by 1 
minus 3%, or .97, which is 44,330 pounds. There- 
fore to make 100,000 pounds of cloth, containing 
96,000 pounds of actual yarn, there is required 
100,120 pounds of yarn from the spinning frames. 
In percentages we find : 

Warp (sized) = 57% of cloth weight. 

Warp (unsized- = 53% of cloth weight. 

Warp (unsized) = 55.21% of actual yarn in 
cloth. 

Warp (unsized) = 55.72% of actual yarn spun. 

Filling = 43% of cloth weight. 

Filling = 44.79% of actual yarn in cloth. 

Filling == 44.28% of actual yarn spun. 

Length Cloth That Can Be Woven With a 
Given Amount of Warp or Filling 

To find length of cloth that can be woven 
from a warp of known weight and count: 



96 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

Rule 63 : Multiply net w&lglfd of warp on loom 
beam by 1 minus percentage of sizing on warp, 
by warp count, by 840, by 1 minus warp contrac- 
tion in weaving, and by 1 minus percentage of 
loss in tveight of warp at loom; divide product by 
total ends in warp. 

Example : A loom beam with 2700 ends of 30s 
is found to weigh 145 pounds net. It is known to 
carry 7%% sizing. How many yards of 39 inch, 
08x72, 4.75-yard print cloth can be made there- 
with? 

Answer: Sizing equals 7i/ 2 %. 1 — 7%% = 
.925. From the table given for contraction in 
weaving plain cloths the warp contraction is 
found to be 8%. 1 — 8% = .92. The loss in 
weight of warp at loom, including sizing shaken 
or chafed off as well as warp yarn wasted at the 
beginning and ending of the weaving, may be 
estimated in this case at 1%. 1 — 1% = .99. 
Then the yards of cloth that can be woven from 
this warp = 
145 X .925 X 30 X 840 X .92 X .99 

= 1140 yds. 

2700 
or 19 cuts of 60 yards each. 

To find length of cloth that can be woven 
with a given weight and count of filling: 

Rule 64 : Multiply weight of filling by count 
and by 840, also by 1 minus percentage of filling 
waste at loom; divide product by picks per inch 
and by width warp in reed. 

Example: A 72-pick cloth that is spaced 42.1 
inches wide in the reed is using 40s filling. There 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 97 

are 55 pounds of filling on hand. Assuming a fill- 
ing waste at the loom of 2%, what length of cloth 
can be woven therewith ? 

55 X 40 X 840 X .98 

Answer : = 597 yards. 

72 X 42.1 

Note : This is a useful rule in ascertaining if 
the filling on hand is sufficient to complete an 
order calling for a certain number of yards. If it 
is not, then the additional amount of filling re- 
quired for the remaining yardage can be ascer- 
tianed by the use of Rule 35, with due allowance 
for probable waste at loom. 



LOOM SPEED CALCULATIONS. 



Narrow looms are operated faster than wide 
looms, for instance a loom on 36-inch sheeting 
will ordinarily be speeded to put in fully twice as 
many picks per minute as a loom on 108-inch 
sheeting. This does not necessarily mean that 
the shuttle itself travels faster, for in fact in the 
instance cited the shuttle in the narrow loom will 
not cover as many feet per minute as the shuttle 
in the wider loom. The narrower the loom the 
larger the percentage of time lost in retardation 
of speed, bringing the shuttle to rest, at each end 
of its traverse. A normal shuttle speed is around 
10 miles an hour, varying according to circum- 
stances between 9 and 13 miles an hour. 

The width, however, is only one of several fac- 
tors that have to be considered in deciding upon 
the number of picks per minute most advisable 
and, even on the same cloth, looms of the same 
width will be found operated at different speeds in 
different mills. In general the slower the speed, 
within reasonable limits, the higher the percent- 
age of the theoretical production obtainable and 
good judgment is required in deciding as to the 
picks per minute preferable. For instance, a mill 
may be weaving print cloth at 180 picks per min- 
ute and getting off 80 per cent production but 
find that by reducing the speed to 160 picks per 
minute it can get off 90 per cent production; the 
output per loom would be the same in either case 
but the change would probably be advisable be- 
cause the slower speed would make easier work 
for the weaver and tend to fewer seconds. 

English mills operate their looms faster than 
customary in this country. In most instances 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 99 

this is due not so much to superior skill of the 
weaver as it is to the fewer looms given each 
weaver. As a rule the English weaver is re- 
quired to do much extra work, such as bringing 
his own filling from the storeroom, unrolling and 
trimming and repairing cuts, carrying the per- 
fected cloth to the warehouse, oiling, sweeping, 
etc., that in American mills is usually done by 
a cheaper class of operatives. This difference in 
methods, backed by the loom limitations laid down 
by the labor unions, accounts largely for the fact 
that the English weaver rarely operates over four 
looms (if he runs as many as six he always has 
a young "half-timer" assistant) on cloth that in 
the United States a weaver would tend 8 plain 
looms, or 12 if fitted with stop motions. The au- 
tomatic looms, where the filling is automatically 
replenished, is used to a large extent in this coun- 
try only; it is due to this that, in spite of higher 
wages made by the weaver, American weaving 
costs per yard are often less than those abroad. 

Japanese looms are also operated faster than 
the American but this higher speed, together with 
the poor grade of material used (Japanese yarns 
are most largely of the coarse Indian cotton or a 
mixture thereof), and a lower degree of skill, 
means that only two or three looms can be given 
a weaver. In the United States, where wages are 
high, the main object is to obtain the maximum 
production from each operative; hence loom 
speeds are moderate and each weaver is given as 
many looms as he can handle. In low wage coun- 
tries, such as Japan, the principal object is to get 
the maximum output from each machine; hence 
loom speeds are high and as many operatives are 
employed as are necessary to get the desired re- 
sults. 



100 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

The class of goods to be made and the type of 
loom to be used are prominent factors in the 
adjustment of the loom speed. The more com- 
plicated the design the slower the speed and dob- 
bies are therefore run slower than ordinary cam 
looms, and Jacquards are run slower than dob- 
bies. For some purposes cloth is required as near 
perfect as possible and in such cases the loom 
speed is reduced appreciably below that usual 
when operating on the same goods for ordinary 
uses. 

The following table of loom speeds on medium 
weight cloth is taken from the catalogs of two 
prominent loom manufacturers, one making plain 
and one automatic looms. 

Name of Loom or Whitin Draper 

Cloth Width Plain Automatic 

28 inch 200 to 210 190 to 195 

SO inch 195 to 200 185 to 190 

32 inch 185 to 190 180 to 185 

34 inch 180 to 185 175 to 180 

36 inch 175 to 180 170 to 175 

38 inch 170 to 175 165 to 170 

40 inch 165 to 170 160 to 165 

42 inch 160 to 165 154 to 158 

44 inch 154 to 158 148 to 152 

46 inch 150 to 154 144 to 148 

48 inch 140 to 144 

50 inch 142 to 148 

52 inch 136 to 140 

56 inch 138 to 140 132 to 136 

60 inch 132 to 136 128 to 132 

72 inch 116 to 120 116 to 120 

80 inch 110 to 112 108 to 112 

88 inch 104 to 106 100 to 104 

92 inch 100 to 102 96 to 100 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 101 

100 inch 94 to 96 90 to 94 

108 inch 86 to 88 86 to 88 

124 inch 75 to 80 

150 inch 65 to 70 

Although width is only one of several factors 
that decide speed, the foregoing is useful as an in- 
dication of the normal relation of speeds on looms 
of different widths. 

In stating rules for loom speed calculations most 
writers disregard the fact that there is such a 
thing as belt slippage, with the result that there 
is not actually obtained the speed calculated. The 
percentage of speed lost by belt slippage varies 
according to conditions but, with proper care 
given the belts, will be around 3% for each belt 
and it is well to allow for this amount. If there 
are two belts between the main shaft and the loom 
and each slips 3%, a total of approximately 6% 
of the speed is thus lost. This means a loss of 
8 to 12 picks per minute at the loom and belt slip- 
page is therefore an appreciable item in most cal- 
culations dealing with the transmission, of power 
by belting. 

To find speed of loom, when speed of shaft- 
ing, diameter of driving" pulley, and diameter 
of loom pulley are known: 

Rule 65 : Multiply speed of shafting by diame- 
ter of driving pulley, and by 1 minus percentage 
of belt slip; divide product by diameter of loom 
pulley. 

Example :* Shafting runs at 325 r. p. m. (revo- 
lutions per minute) and uses a 7-inch pulley driv- 
ing down to a 14-inch pulley on loom. What is 
speed of loom if 3% is allowed for belt slippage? 



102 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

325 X 7 X .97 

Answer: = 157% picks per 

14 minute. 

To find speed of shafting, when diameter of 
driving pulley, diameter of loom pulley, and 
speed of loom are known: 

Rule 66 : Multiply speed of loom by diameter 
of loom pulley; divide product by diameter of driv- 
ing pulley, and by 1 minus percentage of belt slip. 

Example: With driving pulley of 7 inches di- 
ameter and loom pulley of 14 inches diameter, 
what would be speed of shafting required to give 
1571/2 picks per minute if belt slip be taken as 3% ? 

157.5 X 14 
Answer : = 325 r. p. m. of shaf ing 

7 X .97 

To find diameter of driving pulley, when 
speed of shafting, speed of loom, and diameter 
of loom pulleys are known: 

Rule 67: Multiply speed of loom by diameter 
of loom pulley; divide product by speed of shaft- 
ing, and by 1 minus percentage of belt slip. 

Example : Shafting runs 325 r. p. m., and loom 
has 14-inch pulley. If belt slip be taken as 3%, 
what is diameter of driving pulley required to give 
1571/2 picks per minute? 

157.5 X 14 

Answer : = 7 inches* diameter of 

325 X .97 driving pulley. 

To find dameter of loom pulley, when speed 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 103 

of loom, speed of shafting, and diameter of 
driving pulley are known: 

Rule 68: Multiply speed of shafting by di- 
ameter of driving pulley, and by 1 minus percent- 
age of belt slip; divide product by speed of loom. 

Example: Shafting runs at 325 r. p. m. and 
drives loom from a 7-inch pulley on shaft. Allow- 
ing for 3% belt slip, what is diameter of loom 
pulley required to give 157% picks per minute? 

325 X 7 X .97 

Answer : — = 14 inches diame- 

157.5 ter of loom pulley. 

To find diameter of loom pulley required in 
changing speed of loom, knowing diameter of 
loom pulley in use: 

Rule 69 : Multiply present speed of loom by 
diameter of present loom pulley; divide results by 
loom speed desired. 

Example: Loom is being run at 157% picks 
per minute with 14-inch loom pulley; what loom 
pulley would be required to speed loom up to 165 
picks per minute? 

157.5 X 14 

Answer : = 13.36 inches diameter 

165 loom pulley. 

Note — Loom pulleys are normally made only in 
full inch diameters such as 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 
or 16 inches and where the above rule does not 
give an answer very close to the even inch it is 
necessary to change also some other pulley be- 
tween the main shaft and the loom. Where a 



104 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

countershaft is employed it is usually preferable 
to change the pulleys carrying the countershaft 
belt but any one or all of the four pulleys between 
the main shaft and the loom may be changed if 
circumstances warrant. 

To find, diameters of pulleys required to 
change speed of loom, knowing" present speeds 
and diameters of pulleys being used: 

Rule 70 : Divide speed of loom required by 
present speed of loom to ascertain percentage of 
change in speed required. Change one or more 
pulleys until product of driving pulleys divided by 
product of driven pulleys is changed to the extent 
of the percentage of change in loom speed desired. 

Note — The pulley on main shaft and every al- 
ternate pulley in the drive are driving pulleys ; the 
pulley driven by main shaft and every alternate 
pulley are considered as driven pulleys. 

Example : Main line shafting runs at 300 r. p. 
m., using a 30-inch pulley to drive to a 27-inch 
pulley on countershaft. The countershaft has a 
7-inch pulley driving down to a 14-inch pulley on 
loom. Present speed of loom is about 157 picks 
per minute. What changes should be made to 
obtain a loom speed of 165 picks per minute? 

Answer : The proposed loom speed of 165, di- 
vided by the present loom speed of 157 1 / / 2 picks 
per minute, equals 1.0475, showing that the speed 
is to be increased by 4%%. Present arrangement 
30 X 7 

of pulleys is . If it were possible to in- 

27 X 14 
crease diameter of any one driving pulley by 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 105 

4%%, or decrease diameter of any driven pulley 
by 4%%, and get a pulley of commercial size, that 
would be the easiest arrangement. The change in 
diameter is, however, too small to make that prac- 
ticable so it is necessary to try various combina- 
tions until we strike one where the product of the 
diameters of the driving pulleys divided by the 
product of the diameters of the driven pulleys is 
4%% more than that of the result of the present 
arrangement. In trying to make the change with 
two new pulleys only we may divide the main 
shaft pulley diameter (30 inches) times 1.0475 by 
the diameter of the countershaft receiving pulley 
(27 inches). This gives 1.162. Dividing a trial 
number 28 by a trial number 24 we get 1.166, 
which is very nearly the same, so we may use a 
28-inch main shaft pulley and a 24-inch counter- 
shaft receiving pulley; in so doing we avoid 
changing either the countershaft driving pulley 
or the loom pulley. 

Proof : 

300 X 30 X 7 X .94 

= 156.7 picks per minute 

27 X 14 present speed. 

300 X 28 X 7 X-94 

= 164.5 picks per minute 

24 X 14 required speed. 

To find difference in length of belt required 
when changing the size of one or both pulleys: 

Rule 71 : Take the difference between the di- 
ameters of the pulleys, present and prospective, 
and one-half of the difference, and add to present 
belt length if the change is to pulleys the sum of 
whose diameters is larger than the sum of the 



106 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

diameters of the present pulleys, or subtract from 
present belt length if the sum of the diameters of 
the new pulleys is smaller than the sum of the 
diameters of the present pulleys. 

Example 1: A pulley of 14 inches is substi- 
tuted for a loom pulley of 12 inches. What length 
should be added to the loom belt? 

Answer : 14 — 12 = 2. 2 X 1% = 3 inches 
longer belt required. 

Example 2 : A countershaft belt runs on pul- 
leys of 30 and 27 inches diameter, but these are 
replaced by 28 and 24 inch pulleys. Should the 
countershaft belt be lengthened or shortened and 
by how much? 

Answer: 30 plus 27 equals 57; 28 plus 24 
equals 52. The difference is 57 — 52 or 5 inches. 
IV2 X 5 = 7% inches, which is the amount that 
needs to be cut out of the belt. 



TYPICAL AMERICAN 
CLOTHS 



107 



TYPICAL AMERICAN CLOTHS. 



A book on weave room calculations is hardly- 
complete without some tabulation of cloths with 
their particulars. Such a list is of interest as il- 
lustrating the conditions that confront the weaver 
in various branches of the industry. The cotton 
weaving industry has many ramifications and a 
weaver on duck or coarse sheeting, for instance, 
usually has little opportunity to visualize the en- 
tirely different conditions that pertain to the 
weaving of organdies or Venetians. It is not with- 
out suggestive value, at least, where a weaver 
has to make a cloth with which he is not familiar. 

A full description of a cloth involves stating the 
weave, the width, the weight, the construction, 
and the yarn counts. This latter is usually omit- 
ted from such lists for the reason that, as pre- 
viously shown, the same cloth may be made of 
many yarn combinations within a certain limit. 
That a blanket mill uses only 19s warp count, 
varying its filling from 3s to 6s to get the weights 
desired, does not mean that another mill may not 
be using 18s to 20s or other warp yarns and other 
counts of filling, but a statement of the yarns used 
in one mill, if typical, throws some light on the 
manufacture of blankets by showing that they 
are usually made of coarse yarns with the filling 
very much coarser than the warp. We have in- 
cluded typical yarn counts as indicative of the 
usual ranges and in order to make the tabulation 
completer and of more practical value. 

The list does not attempt to be an exhaustive 
one but gives examples of cloths, many of them 
of large production, in some of the most important 
sections of the industry. The majority of the 
cotton cloths made in this country, in fact in the 
world, are plain-woven cloths using counts under 



110 CLAKK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

42s (the ordinary spinning limit of short-staple 
Upland cotton not over 1 1/16 inch in length) and 
it will be found that those shown are mainly of 
this predominating class. 

In stating the counts of ply yarns, the count is 
shown first and the ply second, for instance 23/11 
means 23s, 11-ply. In the wool industry the ply 
is usually given first and the count second, and 
this also obtains to some extent in the cotton in- 
dustry, but we have followed the procedure that 
is most general and preferable. The figures 
23/5/3 used in connection with the warp of cord 
tire fabrics indicates cabled yarn ; five ends of 23s 
single are twisted together with wet, reverse 
twist, and then three ends of this ply yarn cabled 
with dry, regular twist. 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 



111 



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112 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

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CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 113 



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114 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 







Ends and 






Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling 


in inches. 


per lb 


per inch. 

Grey Drills 


yarn. 


yarn. 


25 


3.80 


68x40 


12.75s 


16s 


29 


2.51 


72x52 


13.50s 


10.60s 


29 


2.82 


72x48 


13.50s 


13.30s 


30 


2.50 


68x48 


12.50s 


11.75s 


30 


2.50 


70x48 


13.50s 


10s 


30 


2.50 


70x52 


13s 


12.50s 


30 


2.50 


72x60 


13.50s 


14s 


30 


2.60 


68x44 


12.75s 


lis 


30 


2.60 


70x48 


13.50s 


10s 


30 


2.85 


70x48 


13s 


15s 


30 


2.85 


71x46 


14s 


14s 


30 


2.88 


68x46 


13s 


13s 


30 


2.93 


68x44 


12.75s 


15s 


30 


3.00 


66x44 


13.60s 


14.25s 


30 


3.00 


68x40 


13s 


13.50s 


30 


3.00 


68x46 


15s 


15s 


30 


3.00 


68x48 


13s 


14s 


30 


3.00 


70x44 


13s 


15s 


30 


3.00 


72x46 


14s 


14s 


30 


3.25 


68x40 


13s 


17s 


30 


3.25 


68x46 


15s 


15s 


30 


3.25 


70x40 


13s 


18s 


30 


3.28 


68x46 


13s 


18s 


30 


3.50 


68x46 


13s 


20s 


30 


4.00 


70x48 


17.50s 


20s 


30% 


3.09 


70x46 


12s 


16s 


30y 2 


2.45 


70x50 


13.50s 


10.50s 


31 


3.05 


68x40 


12.50s 


16.50s 


32 


2.69 


70x46 


13.50s 


13.25s 


36 


2.28 


68x56 


13s 


22s 


37 


2.35 


68x40 


15s 


16s 


37 


2.35 


70x48 


15s 


16s 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 115 







Ends and 






Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling 


in inches. 


per lb 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 




Grey Drills (Continued) 




37 


2.35 


76x42 


13s 


14s 


37 


2.65 


68x40 


13s 


17s 


37 


3.00 


67x40 


17s 


20s 


37 


3.00 


68x36 


13s 


22s 


37 


3.25 


68x40 


17s 


17s 


37 


3.50 


68x40 


17s 


20s 


37 


3.75 


68x40 


20s 


20s 


37 


3.95 


66x36 
Grey Jeans 


18s 


23s 


29 


5.25 


80x60 


26.50s 


33s 


291/2 


3.53 


96x64 


22s 


24.50s 


30 


4.00 


88x56 


21s 


27s 


30 


5.00 


96x64 


28s 


36s 


32 


3.31 


96x64 


22s 


24.50s 


39 


2.75 


96x64 


22s 


24.50s 


39 


2.89 


96x64 


28s 


22s 


39 


3.00 


96x64 


22s 


30s 


39 


3.10 


96x64 


22s 


31s 




Wide Grey Drills 






40 


2.03 


70x48 


13.50s 


13s 


40 


2.40 


68x40 


13s 


16s 


40 


3.06 


63x40 


22s 


12s 


40 


3.96 


68x40 


24s 


24s 


46 


1.75 


76x42 


13s 


13s 


46 


2.00 


70x42 


13s 


16s 


51 


1.81 


70x42 


13s 


16.50s 


52 


1.90 


68x40 


13.50s 


15.50s 


58 


1.60 


68x40 


13.50s 


14s 


59 


1.85 


68x40 


13s 


20s 


59 


1.94 


68x40 


17s 


17s 



116 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 







Ends and 






Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling 


in inches. 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 




Three-leaf Twills 


i 




35 


5.00 


68x72 


30s 


36s 


36 


4.20 


60x80 


28s 


28s 


37 


4.50 


96x60 


28s 


40s 


38i/ 2 


3.10 


96x64 


28s 


22s 


39 


3.65 


80x92 


28s 


34s 


39 


3.75 


80x84 


28s 


34s 


39 


3.90 


80x80 


28s 


34s 


39 


4.00 


68x76 


28s 


30s 


39 


4.25 


68x76 


28s 


32s 


39 


4.50 


68x76 


28s 


38s 


39 


4.80 


64x72 


30s 


40s 


39 


5.10 


64x64 


28s 


38s 


39 


5.25 


64x56 


28s 


36s 


39 


6.00 


64x48 


30s 


40s 


39 


6.60 


56x44 


28s 


38s 


40 


2.94 


66x64 


26.50s 


17s 


43 


3.25 


80x92 


28s 


34s 


43 


3.50 


80x84 


28s 


36s 


43 


3.55 


68x76 


28s 


28s 


43 


4.00 


68x68 


28s 


32s 


43 


4.00 


68x76 


30s 


36s 


43 


4.00 


80x76 


28s 


44s 


43 


4.30 


68x60 


28s 


34s 


43 


4.50 


68x76 


30s 


42s 


43 


4.75 


68x52 


28s 


36s 




Four-leaf Twills 






30 


2.00 


88x48 


12s 


10s 


30 


2.10 


88x58 


12s 


12s 


30 


2.12 


80x42 


lis 


10s 


30 


2.15 


88x48 


12s 


lis 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 117 







Ends and 






Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling 


in inches. 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 




Four-leaf Twills (Continued) 




30 


2.31 


88x48 


13s 


13s 


30 


2.40 


88x48 


13s 


14s 


30 


2.50 


88x38 


12s 


14s 


30 


2.65 


88x38 


13s 


14s 


30 


2.85 


88x38 


15s 


14s 


30 


3.00 


86x40 


18s 


10s 


30 


3.00 


88x38 


15s 


15s 


30 


3.25 


88x38 


17s 


17s 


30 


3.50 


88x38 


17s 


18s 


3U/ 2 


2.05 


88x56 


13s 


13s 


331/2 


1.73 


86x62 


13.50s 


8s 


37 


1.75 


86x44 


12s 


10s 


37 


1.95 


76x42 


12.50s 


10s 


37 


2.00 


88x42 


13.50s 


12s 


37 


2.10 


86x44 


13.50s 


13s 


37 


2.35 


76x42 


13s 


14s 


59 


1.76 


76x44 


18s 


15s 




Canton Flannels 






27% 


3.09 


68x48 


10s 


8s 


28 


2.95 


66x47 


14s 


9s 


30 


2.50 


68x47 


1214s 


10s 




Corset Coutils 






38 


1.70 


104x80 


17s 


17s 


38 


1.85 


124x84 


24s 


18s 


38 


2.15 


86x68 


22s 


16s 


38 


2.15 


104x80 


22s 


20s 


38 


2.25 


96x80 


22s 


20s 


38 


2.53 


112x56 


22s 


24.50s 


38 


2.73 


108x56 


28s 


22s 


38 


3.05 


100x56 


28s 


24s 



118 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 







Ends and 






Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling 


in inches. 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 




Alberts (5-leaf lining twills) 




35 


4.40 


64x80 


30s 


32s 


35 


4.85 


64x88 


30s 


43s 


35 


5.10 


64x80 


30s 


43s 


35 


5.50 


64x72 


30s 


45s 




Warp Sateens 






27% 


2.50 


96x56 


22s 


8s 


271/2 


3.70 


112x64 


22s 


28s 


29 


4.20 


112x64 


28s 


30s 


30 


2.85 


88x38 


14s 


14s 


301/2 


2.65 


118x64 


24s 


15s 


301/2 


3.00 


118x64 


22s 


22s 


301/2 


3.30 


118x64 


24s 


22s 


301/2 


3.35 


112x64 


22s 


28s 


301/2 


3.35 


118x64 


24s 


22s 


301/2 


3.50 


112x64 


26s 


22s 


301/2 


4.00 


112x64 


28s 


30s 


37 


3.50 


112x64 


24s 


45s 


37% 


3.65 


112x64 


28s 


40s 


40 


3.00 


112x64 


28s 


30s 


42 


3.50 


112x64 


28s 


42s 


42 


3.50 


140x84 


42s 


44s 


421/2 


3.75 


96x64 


28s 


40s 


42i/ 2 


3.90 


96x60 


28s 


40s 


421/2 


4.00 


96x56 


28s 


40s 


43 


3.35 


140x96 


42s 


44s 


43 


3.35 


160x96 


52s 


44s 


43 


3.50 


112x64 


36s 


32s 


43 


3.50 


120x84 


42s 


36s 


43 


3.50 


120x96 


42s 


44s 


43 


3.75 


96x64 


30s 


40s 


44 


3.35 


140x96 


45s 


50s 


54 


1.30 


104x64 


16s 


16s 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 119 







Ends and 






g Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling- 


in inches. 


per lb 


per inch 

Venetians 


yarn. 


yarn. 


35 


2.85 


156x64 


30s 


23s 


35 


3.15 


156x64 


30s 


30s 


35 


3.18 


156x64 


30s 


33s 


38 


2.63 


156x64 


30s 


23s 


38 


2.90 


156x64 


30s 


33s 


35 


3.00 


156x64 


60/2 


30s 


38 


2.75 


156x64 


60/2 


30s 




Filling Sateens 






26i/ 2 


6.85 


64x72 


28s 


36s 


28 


5.85 


64x68 


28s 


36s 


31 


4.00 


72x120 


28s 


34s 


311/a 


5.50 


64x88 


32s 


37s 


3H/2 


5.50 


64x124 


34s 


48s 


331/2 


5.50 


96x150 


46s 


66s 


35 


3.75 


64x112 


28s 


36s 


35 


4.65 


64x104 


32s 


38s 


35 


5.25 


64x80 


36s 


32s 


35 


5.50 


64x72 


28s 


40s 


36 


4.50 


64x104 


36s 


34s 


36 


4.50 


64x112 


34s 


41s 


36 


4.85 


64x88 


36s 


34s 


36% 


4.00 


100x132 


45s 


45s 


371/2 


3.90 


64x112 


28s 


36s 


371/2 


4.00 


64x104 


32s 


37s 


371/2 


4.15 


64x112 


28s 


42s 


37i/ 2 


4.25 


64x96 


28s 


36s 


371/2 


5.00 


64x80 


36s 


33s 


371/2 


5.25 


64x72 


28s 


42s 


39 


3.75 


64x112 


28s 


36s 


39 


3.75 


84x124 


32s 


47s 


39 


3.75 


96x132 


36s 


50s 


39 


3.75 


96x132 


40s 


45s 



120 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 







Ends and 






Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling 


in inches. 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 




Filling Sateens (Continued) 




39 


4.00 


64x104 


32s 


37s 


39 


4.00 


64x112 


28s 


42s 


39 


4.20 


64x104 


29s 


43s 


39 


4.50 


64x88 


36s 


34s 


40 


3.56 


96x136 


40s 


45s 


43 


3.35 


84x124 


36s 


40s 


43 


3.35 


96x132 


36s 


48s 


43 


3.35 


96x150 


36s 


54s 


44 


3.75 


64x112 


36s 


38s 


44 


4.00 


64x104 


36s 


38s 




Grey Osnaburgs 






28 


2.28 


30x30 


5.50s 


6s 


29 


2.90 


30x32 


8s 


6.50s 


29 


3.33 


30x30 


8s 


8s 


29 


3.33 


32x30 


8.50s 


7.50s 


291/2 


3.33 


34x34 


10s 


8.50s 


30 


2.00 


32x32 


5.50s 


6s 


30 


2.00 


36x31 


6s 


5.50s 


30 


2.00 


39x30 


8.50s 


4.75s 


30 


2.00 


39x34 


8.50s 


5s 


30 


2.00 


42x30 


6s 


6s 


30 


2.28 


36x30 


6s 


7s 


30 


2.28 


36x30 


6s 


7s 


30 


2.28 


39x30 


8.50s 


5s 


30 


2.28 


40x30 


6s 


6s 


30 


2.29 


42x30 


6s 


8s 


30 


2.90 


40x32 


8.50s 


7.75s 


31 


'2.80 


32x30 


8.50s 


6.20s 


31% 


2.00 


30x30 


5.50s 


6s 


351/4 


3.33 


37x28 


lis 


10s 


36 


2.30 


32x24 


8.50s 


4.75s 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 121 







Ends and 






Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling 


in inches 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 




Gray Osnaburgs (Continued) 




36 


2.50 


32x30 


8.50s 


6s 


36 


3.50 


34x32 


14s 


9s 


36 


3.60 


33x28 


12s 


10s 


36 . 


3.90 


33x28 


12s 


13.50s 


36 


3.90 


32x28 


10s 


9.50s 


37 


3.95 


34x34 


12s 


12s 


40 


1.71 


39x30 


8.50s 


4.75s 


40 


3.28 


24x34 


12s 


10s 


40 


3.50 


32x28 


10s 


9.50s 




Osnaburg Tubing 




20 


1.71 


39x30 


8.50s 


4.75s 




Coarse Sheetings (14s 


range) 




24 


4.40 


40x40 


12s 


12s 


24 


5.50 


40x38 


12s 


16s 


261/, 


5.00 


40x38 


12s 


16s 


27 * 


4.70 


44x42 


13s 


14s 


28 


4.00 


48x48 


12s 


17.30s 


30 


3.60 


48x48 


14s 


13.50s 


30 


3.75 


48x48 


12s 


17.30s 


31 


3.50 


48x44 


14s 


13s 


33 


3.40 


48x48 


12s 


12s 


36 


2.85 


40x40 


lis 


12s 


36 


2.85 


48x48 


12s 


13.50s 


36 


2.99 


48x48 


13s 


15s 


36 


3.00 


48x44 


14s 


13s 


36 


3.00 


48x46 


13s 


13.50s 


36 


3.00 


48x48 


14s 


14s 


36 


3.25 


40x40 


12s 


12.90s 


36 


3.25 


48x40 


13.50s 


14.50s 


36 


3.25 


48x44 


13s 


15s 


36 


3.25 


48x48 


13s 


16s 



122 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 







Ends and 






Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling: 


in inches. 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 


Coarse 


Sheetings (14s range) (Continued) 


36 


3.50 


40x40 


14s 


lis 


36 


3.60 


48x40 


14s 


16s 


36 


3.75 


40x40 


12s 


16s 


36 


3.88 


40x38 


13s 


13s 


36 


3.90 


40x38 


13s 


16s 


36i/ 2 


3.50 


44x40 


13.50s 


16s 


39 


2.60 


48x48 


13s 


14s 


40 


2.35 


48x46 


11.50s 


11.50s 


40 


2.50 


48x46 


11.50s 


13.50s 


40 


2.50 


48x48 


13.50s 


12s 


40 


2.66 


48x48 


13.50s 


13.50s 


40 


2.70 


48x48 


14s 


14s 


40 


2.85 


48x44 


13s 


14.50s 


40 


2.85 


48x48 


14s 


16s 


Coarse Sheetings (18s range) 




26 


6.25 


44x44 


20.50s 


16s 


30 


4.50 


48x48 


17s 


18s 


30 


5.00 


48x44 


18.50s 


18.50s 


30 


5.00 


44x48 


16s 


20s 


31 


4.50 


44x44 


17s 


16s 


31 


4.70 


44x44 


17s 


17s 


31 


4.99 


46x46 


18s 


19.50s 


31 


5.00 


48x48 


21s 


18s 


36 


3.20 


65x64 


18.50s 


22s 


36 


4.00 


48x48 


18.50s 


18.50s 


36 


4.00 


48x52 


17s 


21s 


36 


4.00 


52x48 


19.50s 


19s 


36 


4.50 


44x36 


20s 


13s 


36 


4.50 


48x44 


20s 


18s 


37 


4.00 


48x48 


17s 


21s 


37 


4.00 


48x48 


20.50s 


17s 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 123 







Ends and 






_ Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling 


in inches. 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 


Coarse 


Sheetings (18s range) 


i (Continued) 


37 


4.00 


52x48 


18s 


22s 


39% 


2.40 


64x64 


16s 


17s 


40 


2.92 


65x64 


18.50s 


22s 


40 


3.60 


48x48 


18s 


18s 


40 


3.75 


44x40 


17s 


21s 


40 


3.75 


48x44 


20.50s 


16s 


40 


4.25 


44x40 


17s 


18s 




Sheetings (22s range) 




30 


5.50 


48x48 


21s 


22s 


32 


4.50 


56x60 


21s 


23s 


32 


6.25 


40x40 


21s 


22s 


34 


5.82 


48x40 


21s 


24s 


34 


6.00 


40x40 


21s 


22s 


34 


6.50 


40x40 


21s 


25s 


. 36 


3.25 


68x72 


22s 


25s 


36 


3.25 


68x76 


21s 


25s 


36 


3.50 


64x68 


22s 


25s 


36 


3.60 


64x68 


21s 


26s 


36 


3.68 


64x62 


20.50s 


23s 


36 


3.70 


64x68 


22s 


26s 


36 


3.75 


60x64 


21s 


23s 


36 


4.00 


56x60 


21s 


24s 


36 


4.00 


60x56 


21s 


23s 


36 


4.00 


60x60 


21s 


26s 


36 


4.20 


56x56 


23s 


23s 


36 


4.25 


56x56 


22s 


25s 


36 


4.50 


48x52 


21s 


24s 


36 


4.50 


56x52 


22s 


25s 


36 


4.50 


60x48 


21s 


26s 


36 


4.69 


52x48 


20s 


25s 


36 


4.70 


48x50 


21.50s 


22s 



124 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 







Ends and 






Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling 


in inches. 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 


Sheetings (22s 


; range) (continued) 


36 


4.70 


48x52 


20s 


23s 


36 


4.70 


52x48 


20s 


26s 


36 


5.00 


44x44 


21s 


23s 


36 


5.00 


48x48 


21s 


24s 


36 


5.20 


46x46 


21s 


23s 


36 


5.50 


44x44 


21s 


26s 


36 


5.50 


48x40 


21s 


24s 


36 


5.50 


48x44 


21s 


28s 


36 


6.00 


40x40 


21s 


24s 


36 


6.15 


40x36 


20.50s 


23s 


37 


5.50 


44x44 


21s 


26s 


38 


4.00 


48x52 


21s 


20s 


381/2 


4.50 


48x52 


21s 


28s 


40 


2.93 


68x76 


21s 


25s 


40 


3.15 


64x68 


22s 


25s . 


40 


3.35 


64x68 


21s 


28s 


40 


3.60 


56x60 


22s 


25s 


40 


4.05 


56x52 


22s 


25s 


40 


4.25 


44x40 


21s 


24s 


40 


5.00 


44x44 


21s 


26s 




Sheetings (26s range) 




28 


7.00 


60x52 


28s 


27s 


36 


4.00 


68x72 


25s 


29s 


36 


6.05 


44x44 


25s 


27s 


36 


6.15 


44x40 


22s 


28s 


36 


6.15 


44x44 


24s 


26s 


36 


6.50 


40x40 


25s 


27s 


36 


6.50 


44x40 


24s 


26s 


37 


6.33 


40x40 


25s 


27s 


40 


3.70 


68x72 


25s 


29s 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 125 







Ends and 






m Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling 


in inches. 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 




Wide Sheetings 






42 


3.06 


64x68 


21s 


25s 


42 


3.55 


56x60 


22s 


25s 


44 


4.00 


48x48 


25s 


27s 


45 


2.85 


64x68 


21s 


25s 


45 


3.20 


64x68 


25s 


25s 


46 


2.08 


64x68 


17s 


18s 


46 


2.56 


68x76 


21s 


25s 


48 


2.68 


64x68 


21s 


25s, 


49i/ 2 


2.36 


68x76 


21s 


25s 


50i/ 2 


3.20 


48x48 


20s 


21s 


511/2 


3.85 


48x48 


24s 


27s 


511/2 


4.50 


40x40 


25s 


27s 


52 


3.85 


48x48 


25s 


27s 


52 


4.00 


44x46 


25s 


27s 


52 


4.50 


40x40 


25s 


28s 


54 


2.17 


68x76 


21s 


25s 


54 


2.38 


64x68 


21s 


25s 


56 


3.03 


60x52 


25s 


27s 


58 


4.05 


40x40 


25s 


27s 


60 


2.75 


60x56 


24s 


26s 


60 


3.25 


48x48 


25s 


27s 


60 


3.90 


40x40 


25s 


27s 


63 


1.88 


66x72 


21s 


26s 


63 


2.04 


64x68 


21s 


25s 


72 


1.63 


68x76 


21s 


25s 


72 


1.79 


64x68 


21s 


25s 


76 


1.88 


60x56 


20s 


22s 


81 


1.45 


68x76 


21s 


25s 


81 


1.59 


64x68 


21s 


25s 


81 


1.69 


64x64 


22s 


25s 


86 


1.66 


60x56 


20s 


22s 


90 


1.30 


68x76 


21s 


25s 



126 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 







Ends and 






Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling 


in inches. 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 




Wide Sheeting (Continued) 




90 - 


1.32 


66x72 


21s 


26s 


90 


1.43 


64x68 


21s 


25s 


99 


1.30 


64x68 


21s 


25s 


108 


1.01 


66x72 


21s 


26s 


108 


1.25 


56x56 


20s 


20s 


118 


1.00 


64x64 


20s 


20s 


126 


.895 


64x64 


20s 


20s 


156 


.76 


64x64 


20s 


20s 




Linoleum Fabrics 




22 


10.00 


40x40 


20s 


28s 


27 


9.00 


44x44 


30s 


38s 


30 


6.66 


48x48 


24s 


26s 


51 


3.85 


48x48 


24.50s 


25s 


51 


4.55 


56x56 


30s 


42s 


51i/ 2 


4.25 


44x44 


23.75s 


27s 


60 


3.33 


48x48 


24s 


26s 




Narrow Cheese Cloths 




24 


9.50 


44x44 


28s 


29s 


25 


10.25 


44x44 


28s 


31s 


25 


13.25 


40x36 


28s 


38s 


25 


13.25 


44x36 


30s 


39s 


25 


14.00 


40x36 


30s 


40s 


25 


14.75 


40x32 


30s 


40s 


27 


9.50 


44x44 


28s 


31s 


28 


9.15 • 


44x40 


28s 


29s 


28 


11.28 


44x40 


30s 


40s 


28 


13.50 


40x28 


30s 


37s 


30 


10.52 


44x40 


30s 


40s 


32 


9.87 


44x40 


30s 


40s 


32 


13.50 


32x28 


28s 


42s 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 127 







Ends and 






Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling: 


in inches. 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 



Narrow Cheese Cloths (Continued) 
32 14.50 34x22 28s 42s 

34 9.40 44x40 29s 42s 

Tobacco Cloths 



36 


7.75 


48x44 


29s 


38s 


36 


8.10 


44x44 


29s 


38s 


36 


8.10 


48x40 


30s 


36s 


36 


8.40 


44x44 


30s 


39s 


36 


8.50 


44x40 


30s 


37s 


36 


9.20 


40x40 


29s 


40s 


36 


9.20 


44x36 


30s 


39s 


36 


9.65 


40x36 


30s 


38s 


36 


9.65 


40x32 


28s 


37s 


36 


10.20 


40x32 


30s 


38s 


36 


10.50 


36x32 


30s 


37s 


36 


11.20 


36x32 


30s 


41s 


36 


11.50 


32x28 


28s 


36s 


36 


11.50 


36x32 


30s 


43s 


36 


12.00 


32x28 


30s 


37s 


36 


13.00 


32x28 


32s 


41s 


36 


13.50 


32x24 


30s 


41s 


36 


15.00 


28x24 


32s 


41s 


36 


15.80 


26x22 


30s 


41s 


36 


17.00 


24x20 


30s 


40s 


36 


19.00 


22x18 


28s 


42s 


36 


21.00 


20x16 


29s 


42s 


36 


22.00 


20x14 


30s 


40s 


36 


23.25 


20x12 


30s 


39s 


36 


30.00 


16x8 


30s 


37s 


36 


40.00 


8x8 


28s 


31s 




Wide Cheese Cloths 




37 


9.38 


40x36 


30s 


40s 



128 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 







Ends and 






Vidth 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling 


inches. 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 


Wide Cheese Cloths (Continued) 




383/2 


7.65 


44x44 


30s 


39s 


38i/ 2 


8.00 


44x40 


30s 


40s 


38i/ 2 


8.10 


44x40 


30s 


40s 


38i/ 2 


8.20 


40x40 


28s 


40s 


381/2 


8.20 


44x40 


30s 


40s 


38i/ 2 


8.50 


44x36 


29s 


40s 


39 


8.00 


44x40 


30s 


40s 


39 


9.20 


40x32 


30s 


38s 


39 


9.80 


40x28 


28s 


38s 


40 


9.10 


40x32 


30s 


40s 


40 


10.80 


32x28 


30s 


39s 


42 


7.00 


33x44 


28s 


33s 


42 


7.50 


44x40 


30s 


40s 


42 


10.50 


32x28 


30s 


40s 


43 


8.25 


40x32 


28s 


40s 


44 


7.25 


44x40 


29s 


42s 


44 


8.50 


36x32 


28s 


40s 




Narrow Print Cloths 




24 


10.77 


58x44 


29s 


40s 


25 


7.60 


64x60 


28s 


34s 


25 


8.21 


64x60 


30s 


38s 


25 


10.55 


56x44 


30s 


40s 


25 


11.00 


52x44 


29s 


44s 


26 


7.08 


64x72 


30s 


40s 


27 


6.00 


72x76 


28s 


35s 


27 


7.46 


64x60 


30s 


40s 


27 


7.60 


64x60 


30s 


40s 


27 


7.85 


64x58 


29s 


38s 


27 


8.70 


58x56 


30s 


40s 


27 


8.70 


56x60 


30s 


42s 


27 


8.77 


56x52 


30s 


38s 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 129 







Ends and 






Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling- 


in inches. 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 


Narrow Print Cloths (Continued) 


i 


27 


9.00 


56x52 


30s 


40s 


27 


9.40 


56x44 


28s 


38s 


27 


9.50 


56x44 


28s 


38s 


27 


9.75 


56x44 


30s 


40s 


27 


9.85 


56x40 


28s 


38s 


28 


7.00 


64x64 


28s 


40s 


28 


7.30 


64x60 


30s 


40s 


28 


7.35 


64x56 


30s 


40s 


28 


7.50 


64x56 


30s 


40s 


28 


8.00 


56x60 


28s 


40s 


28 


8.70 


56x60 


32s 


43s 


28 


9.00 


56x52 


30s 


41s 


28 


9.14 


48x44 


28s 


34s 


29 


9.70 


48x48 


28s 


42s" 


30 


6.94 


64x60 


29.50s 


42s 


31 


6.00 


75x56 


28s 


36s 


31 


6.60 


64x60 


28s 


38s 


31l/ 2 


5.36 


64x88 


30s 


40s 


31i/ 2 


7.50 


56x52 


30s 


38s 


31i/ 2 


7.54 


56x52 


30s 


40s 


31i/ 2 


7.60 


56x52 


28s 


42s 


381/2 


8.45 


56x40 


30s 


39s 


32 


5.75 


64x60 


28s 


33s 


32 


6.12 


64x64 


30s 


38s 


32 


6.20 


64x60 


30s 


38s 


32 


6.50 


64x60 


29s 


40s 


32 


8.50 


48x48 


30s 


40s 


32 


8.80 


48x48 


28s 


42s 


34 


5.00 


68x72 


28s 


35s 


34 


6.00 


64x60 


30s 


40s 


34 


8.00 


48x48 


30s 


40s 


35 


5.00 


68x72 


30s 


37s 


35 


6.70 


56x44 


29s 


33s 



130 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 







Ends and 






Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling 


In inches. 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 




Wide 


; Print Cloths 




36 


5.00 


64x64 


28s 


34s 


36 


5.50 


64x64 


30s 


40s 


36 


6.00 


56x56 


30s 


38s 


36 


6.43 


60x52 


29s 


40s 


36 


7.00 


52x52 


28s 


40s 


38 


5.20 


64x56 


28s 


35s 


38 


6.75 


56x44 


30s 


39s 


38 


7.15 


48x48 


30s 


40s 


38i/ 2 


5.15 


64x60 


30s 


38s 


38i/ 2 


5.15 


64x64 


30s 


40s 


38i/ 2 


5.26 


64x64 


30s 


40s 


38l/ 2 


5.35 


64x60 


30s 


40s 


38i/ 2 


5.48 


64x56 


30s 


38s 


38l/ 2 


5.50 


64x52 


30s 


38s 


38i/ 2 


5.50 


64x56 


30s 


40s 


38i/ 2 


5.54 


64x64 


30s 


42s 


38l/ 2 


6.00 


60x48 


30s 


38s 


38% 


6.00 


60x52 


30s 


40s 


38i/ 2 


6.00 


60x56 


30s 


41s 


38i/ 2 


6.25 


60x48 


30s 


40s 


38% 


6.85 


56x44 


30s 


40s 


38i/ 2 


7.01 


48x48 


30s 


40s 


38i/ 2 


7.15 


48x48 


29s 


40s 


38i/ 2 


7.30 


52x40 


29s 


42s 


39 


4.00 


80x80 


30s 


40s 


39 


4.25 


68x76 


29s 


32s 


39 


4.25 


72x76 


30s 


39s 


39 


4.50 


68x76 


29s 


38s 


39 


4.50 


68x80 


30s 


40s 


39 


4.66 


68x72 


28s 


38s 


39 


4.67 


68x72 


30s 


40s 


39 


4.75 


68x72 


30s 


40s 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 131 







Ends and 






Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling 


in inches 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 


' 


Wide Print Cloths (Continued) 




39 


5.10 


64x64 


30s 


40s 


39 


5.25 


64x56 


30s 


40s 


39 


6.60 


56x44 


30s 


40s 


39i/ 2 


6.00 


56x56 


30s 


40s 


39i/ 2 


6.60 


56x52 


32s 


42s 


40 


4.00 


80x80 


29s 


39s 


40 


5.10 


64x64 


30s 


40s 


40 


6.00 


56x56 


29s 


44s 


40 


6.00 


60x48 


30s 


40s 


40 


6.60 


56x44 


28s 


44s 


40 


7.00 


48x48 


29s 


42s 


41 


7.25 


52x40 


29s 


44s 


42 


6.70 


48x48 


28s 


43s 


43 


3.75 


80x80 


30s 


42s 


43 


5.60 


56x52 


29s 


38s 


43 


5.85 


56x52 


29s 


38s 


44: 


4.50 


64x64 


30s 


40s 


44 


4.65 


64x60 


30s 


40s 


44 


6.40 


48x48 


30s 


41s 


45 


3.70 


72x76 


30s 


38s 


. Gray Shirting! 


3 (Printcloth yarns) 


34 


5.10 


94x80 


42s 


40s 


38i/ 2 


4.25 


84x80 


29s 


46s 


39 


4.15 


96x100 


36s 


44s 


39 


5.00 


80x80 


40s 


46s 


391/2 


3.60 


76x92 


30s 


38s 


391/2 


4.25 


84x80 


29s 


46s 


40 


3.20 


83x92 


28s 


33s 


40 


3.50 


80x92 


30s 


38s 



132 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 







Ends and 






% Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling 


in inches. 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 




Longcloths (in the Grey) 




36l/ 2 


5.15 


96x104 


40s 


65s 


39 


4.65 


100x116 


50s 


60s 


39 


4.95 


96x104 


50s 


60s 


39 


5.00 


80x80 


34s 


51s 


39 


5.00 


80x88 


30s 


52s 


39 


5.00 


96x100 


50s 


54s 


39 


5.25 


96x92 


50s 


54s 


39 


5.50 


96x100 


50s 


60s 


39 


6.00 


72x68 


40s 


52s 


39 


6.00 


80x76 


40s 


60s 


39i/ 2 


5.00 


96x100 


47s 


58s 


40 


4.15 


96x100 


40s 


50s 


40 


4.80 


96x104 


44s 


62s 


40 


4.90 


96x104 


47s 


57s 


40 


5.00 


88x92 


42s 


62s 


40 


5.00 


94x104 


47s 


58s 


40 


6.00 


72x68 


40s 


50s 


40 


6.00 


80x76 


40s 


65s 


40 


6.00 


88x80 


50s 


60s 


40 


6.50 


72x68 


50s 


54s 


40 


6.80 


80x72 


50s 


60s 




Nainsooks (in the 


Grey) 




28 


10.50 


82x78 


54s 


74s 


28 


10.73 


80x80 


50s 


83s 


28 


11.00 


84x87 


50s 


75s 


30 


9.60 


85x80 


54s 


74s 


30 


10.04 


83x76 


55s 


75s 


32 


8.41 


92x100 


60s 


80s 


33 


7.70 


88x92 


55s 


68s 


33 


8.00 


84x88 


55s 


68s 


33 


8.30 


80x84 


55s 


68s 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 133 







Ends and 






Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling 


in inches, 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 


Nainsooks (in 


the Grey) (Continued) 


33 


8.35 


96x96 


60s 


84s 


33 


8.50 


76x80 


55s 


60s 


33 


8.75 


84x80 


55s 


75s 


33 


9.55 


76x80 


55s 


60s 


35 


7.00 


116x124 


60s 


100s 


35 


7.30 


116x116 


60s 


100s 


35 


7.70 


108x116 


60s 


100s 


35 


8.00 


108x104 


60s 


100s 


35 


8.70 


100x100 


60s 


100s 




Indiana Linons (in the 


Grey) 




28 


12.00 


60x60 


50s 


60s 


29 


12.15 


68x68 


50s 


75s 


30 


12.30 


64x64 


50s 


75s 


30 


13.00 


72x68 


60s 


86s 


30 


12.50 


72x72 


60s 


84s 


30 


12.00 


76x72 


60s 


84s 


30 


11.75 


76x76 


60s 


84s 


30 


11.16 


76x84 


60s 


84s 


30 


12.00 


80x76 


60s 


94s 


30 


11.25 


80x80 


60s 


84s 


30 


11.50 


80x80 


60s 


86s 


30 


11.04 


84x80 


60s 


84s 


30 


11.35 


88x80 


60s 


100s 


30 


11.10 


88x84 


60s 


93s 


30 


11.00 


88x88 


60s 


95s 


30 


10.75 


88x92 


60s 


93s 


30 


10.75 


92x88 


60s 


100s 


30 


10.40 


92x92 


60s 


93s 


30 


10.23 


92x96 


60s 


95s 


30 


10.06 


92x100 


60s 


100s 



134 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 







Ends and 






Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling: 


in inches 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 




Combed Lawns (in the Grey) 




40 


9.50 


72x68 


60s 


85s 


40 


9.00 


76x72 


60s 


84s 


40 


9.00 


80x80 


60s 


95s 


40 


9.00 


80x80 


60s 


95s 


40 


10.50 


84x80 


70s 


135s 


40 


10.55 


84x80 


80s 


100s 


40 


8.50 


88x80 


60s 


100s 


40 


10.50 


88x80 


80s 


105s 


40 


7.50 


96x92 


60s 


102s 


40 


9.40 


96x92 


80s 


105s 


40 


7.00 


96x100 


60s 


90s 




Persian Lawns (in the Grey) 




30 


16.46 


80x80 


90s 


130s 


30 


12.75 


96x100 


80s 


130s 


30 


11.75 


104x110 


80s 


130s 


30 


14.00 


108x120 


110s 


140s 


32 


15.58 


76x64 


90s 


110s 


32 


15.36 


76x68 


80s 


120s 


32 


15.15 


80x76 


100s 


130s 


32 


17.31 


80x80 


100s 


130s 


32 


15.95 


84x80 


100s 


140s 


32 


16.42 


88x84 


100s 


140s 


32 


16.70 


88x88 


100s 


150s 


32 


16.38 


88x96 


110s 


160s 


32 


16.44 


92x92 


110s 


160s 


32 


15.64 


96x96 


110s 


160s 


32 


14.88 


100x92 


120s 


140s 


32 


14.52 


104x100 


120s 


150s 


32 


13.97 


104x108 


120s 


150s 


32 


14.49 


104x112 


120s 


160s 


32 


14.12 


108x116 


120s 


180s 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 135 







Ends and 






_ Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling 


in inches 


i. per lb, 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 


Persian Lawns 


(in the Grey) (Continued) 


34 


•13.54 


104x108 


100s 


150s 


34 


13.76 


104x112 


120s 


160s 


34 


13.72 


108x116 


120s 


180s 


34 


12.85 


112x124 


120s 


180s 


34 


12.47 


116x128 


120s 


180s 


45 


11.40 


72x68 


90s 


120s 


45 


9.94 


80x72 


85s 


115s 


45 


10.15 


80x76 


90s 


120s 


45 


11.26 


84x80 


100s 


140s 


45 


11.23 


84x84 


100s 


140s 


45 


11.88 


88x88 


110s 


150s 


45 


11.20 


96x96 


110s 


160s 


45 


9.86 


104x108 


120s 


150s 


45 


9.98 


104x112 


120s 


160s 


45 


10.01 


108x116 


120s 


180s 


45 


10.29 


108x116 


120s 


180s 


45 


9.65 


112x124 


120s 


180s 




Voiles (in the Grey) 




40 


8.22 


60x56 


50s 


50s 


40 


9.86 


60x56 


60s 


60s 


27 


9.00 


34x34 


35/2 


45/2 


27 


8.32 


49x46 


60/2 


60/2 


40 


8.00 


62x56 


100/2 


100/2 


40 


9.80 


64x64 


140/2 


140/2 




Pajama Checks (in the Grey) 




36i/ 2 


4.70 


72x80 


30s 


41s 


36i/ 2 


5.20 


66x72 


28.50s 


40s 


36i/ 2 


5.40 


66x64 


30s 


42s 


36i/ 2 


5.75 


64x60 


30s 


41s 


37 


4.00 


88x80 


30s 


38s 



136 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 







Ends and 






Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling 


in inches. 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 


Pajama Checks (in the Grey) (Continued) 


37 


4.80 


74x72 


30s 


42s 


38 


4.35 


80x76 


30s 


42s 


38 


4.65 


72x74 


28.50s 


41s 


38i/ 2 


4.60 


72x74 


28.50s 


40s 




Cotton Blankets 




46 


2.74 


41x32 


19s 


8s 


50 


2.35 


43x24 


19s 


8s 


54 


2.06 


42x28 


19s 


6s 


60 


1.30 


40.1x30 


19s 


3s 


60 


1.41 


41.6x29 


19s 


4s 


60 


1.88 


39x30 


19s 


6s 


64 


1.41 


40.7x28 


19s 


4s 


64 


1.61 


40x30 


19s 


6s 


64 


1.69 


40x28 


19s 


6s 


66 


1.18 


39.4x30 


19s 


3s 


10 


1.48 


39x32 


19s 


6s 


72 


1.10 


40x30 


19s 


3s 




Dimity quilts 




80 


1.06 


70x58 


25s 


lis 


72 


1.35 


16x68 


10s-25s 


24s 




Crochet quilts 




71x89 


2.10 


36x28 


13/2 


7s 


72x84 


2.61 


30x28 


9/2 


13/3 


72x88 


3.17 


36x28 


9/2 


9/2 


78x90 


3.72 


37x35 


15/3 


15/3 




Marseilles quilts 




80x90 


3.14 


66x84 


20s-15s 


14s-4i/4s 


76x86 


3.66 


63x88 


25s-19s 


lls-6s 


76x88 


4.51 


92x112 


30s-15s 


26s-3s 


80x89 


5.05 


105x145 


25s-19s 


32s-4s 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 137 







Ends and 






_ Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling- 


in inches. 


per lb 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 






Satin quilts 




76x88 


3.00 


60x48 


25s-10s 


24s-4s 


76x88 


3.50 


60x54 


25s-10s : 


24s-3i/ 2 s 


80x90 


4.03 


75x94 


80/2-10s 


45s-6s 


80x90 


4.39 


90x120 ; 


80/2-30/2 


65s-6s 




Denims and Coverts 




. 28 


1.78 


67x46 


7s 


lis 


28 


2.00 


66x40 


7s 


lis 


28 


2.00 


67x40 


7.75s 


10s 


28 


2.00 


70x40 


9.25s 


9.50s 


28 


2.00 


72x42 


11.25s 


12s 


28 


2.00 


76x35 


8s 


9.50s 


28 


2.00 


76x44 


8.25s 


12s 


28 


2.20 


67x46 


8s 


14s 


28 


2.20 


68x40 


8.25s 


14s 


28 


2.20 


68x44 


8s 


15s 


28 


2.20 


69x38 


8.25s 


14.50s 


28 


2.20 


69x44 


8s 


16s 


28 


2.20 


70x40 


9.25s 


11.50s 


28 


2.20 


73x38 


9.50s 


10.50s 


28 


2.24 


67i/ 2 x26 


12.50s 


3.75s 


28 


2.40 


62x38 


8.75s 


10.75s 


28 


2.40 


64x38 


9.70s 


11.75s 


28 


2.40 


66x40 


9s 


12s 


28 


2.40 


68x42 


9.25s 


13.50s 


28 


2.40 


69x42 


9s 


15.50s 


28 


2.40 


70x38 


9.25s 


17.50s 


28 


2.40 


70x40 


9.70s 


lis 


28 


2.40 


75x44 


10s 


14s 


28 


2.45 


68x42 


9.25s 


16s 


28 


2.45 


70x40 


9.25s 


17.50s 


28 


2.45 


72x38 


10.50s 


12s 


28 


2.45 


74x41 


10.50s 


10s 



138 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 







Ends and 






Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling 


in inches. 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 


Denims and Coverts (Continued) 




28 


2.45 


76x38 


10.50s 


12.50s 


28 


2.47 


76x40 


lis 


10s 


28 


2.50 


68x44 


10s 


15s 


28 


2.50 


78x42 


lis 


10s 


28 


2.60 


68x38 


11.50s 


10.75s 


28 


2.60 


75x40 


lis 


15s 


28 


2.80 


66x38 


11.75s 


12s 


28 


2.95 


71x38 


12.50s 


13s 


28 


3.20 


64x38 


7.75s 


10s 


28 


3.20 


66x38 


14s 


12s 


28% 


2.16 


63x44 


7.65s 


14.56s 


28% 


2.36 


72x40 


10.15s 


lis 


28% 


2.46 


63x44 


8.50s 


16.25s 


28% 


2.52 


72x40 


10.15s 


14.75s 


281/4 


2.95 


69x40 


12.50s 


13s 


28i/ 2 


1.60 


68x48 


7s 


9s 


28i/ 2 


1.78 


68x48 


7s 


lis 


28l/ 2 


1.99 


63x44 


7.30s 


12.20s 


28l/ 2 


2.00 


63x48 


9s 


13s 


28i/ 2 


2.15 


63x44 


7.65s 


14.56s 


28i/ 2 


2.20 


63x44 


8s 


15s 


28i/ 2 


2.39 


66x40 


8s 


15s 


28l/ 2 


2.44 


63x44 


8.50s 


16.25s 


28i/ 2 


2.50 


67x44 


9s 


15.50s 


28i/ 2 


2.67 


63x44 


9.40s 


17.93s 


28i/ 2 


2.80 


65x44 


9s 


19.50s 


28i/ 2 


2.90 


56x34 


19s 


5.40s 


28i/ 2 


2.98 


63x38 


10.50s 


12.20s 


28i/ 2 


3.00 


67x44 


10.50s 


19.50s 


28i/ 2 


3.25 


68x40 


10.50s 


22s 


28i/ 2 


3.25 


63x38 


11.10s 


20.60s 


28l/ 2 


3.49 


63x38 


11.80s 


23.20s 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 139 







Ends and 






Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling 


in inches. 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 


Denims and Coverts (Continued) 


28i/ 2 


3.50 


58i/ 2 x34 


12.50s 


13s 


30 


2.51 


70x36 
Tickings 


16s 


16s 


32 


1.96 


76x60 


12s 


12.50s 


32 


1.98 


80x60 


12.50s 


12s 


32 


2.00 


80x72 


12.50s 


14s 


32 


2.00 


88x58 


12s 


16s 


32 


2.02 


76x68 


9s 


14s 


32 


2.03 


80x70 


12s 


16s 


32 


2.05 


78x72 


12.50s 


16s 


38 


1.86 


80x60 


12.50s 


14s 




Straw Ticks 






30 


3.75 


73x40 


14s 


14s 


30l/ 4 


2.53 


65x52 


10.50s 


16s 


31 


2.61 


76x54 


14s 


16s 


31 


2.94 


71x46 


12.50s 


24s 




Sateen Tickings 






32 


2.13 


100x52 


12.50s 


20s 


32 


3.25 


100x44 


18.50s 


24s 


33 


2.00 


100x72 


12.50s 


24s 


51 


1.28 


100x52 


12.50s 


20s 


64 


1.06 


100x52 


12.50s 


20s 




Coarse Stripes 






26 


3.00 


58x38 


10.50s 


9.70s 


27 


3.20 


71x50 


12s 


18.50s 


27l/ 2 


4.21 


66x35 


14s 


16.25s 


28 


2.50 


76x40 


10.50s 


12.50s 


28 


2.75 


76x38 


12s 


12s 


28 


3.00 


66x38 


14s 


14s 



140 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 







Ends and 






Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling 


in inches. 


per lb 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 


• 


Coarse Stripse (Continued) 




28 


3.10 


74x48 


12s 


19.80s 


28 


3.50 


60x40 


13s 


14s 


28% 


3.14 


67x48 


12s 


17s 


30 


2.75 


76x39 


12s 


14s 


30 


3.00 


80x41 
Cheviots 


16s 


12s 


23 


5.20 


81x36 


19s 


16.30s 


26 


4.60 


81x36 


19s 


16.30s 


26l/ 2 


3.00 


58x38 


9s 


13s 


26V 2 


5.21 


70x46 


22s 


25.35s 


28 


4.06 


47x50 


26s 


10s 


28 


4.34 


52x48 


16s 


16s 


28 


5.00 


70x46 


19s 


23.75s 


29 


3.60 


53x45 


12s 


14s 


32 


4.50 


70x46 


19s 


25.35s 


32 


5.05 


70x44 
Cottonades 


22s 


25.35s 


28 


2.00 


66x36 


6s 


10s 


29 


1.78 


44x40 


6s 


6s 


29 


1.78 


66x42 


10s 


6s 




Suitings, Napped 




28 


2.88 


70x40 


12.50s 


15.30s 



Suitings, All Cotton Worsteds 
28 2.24 42x34 12.50s 3.75s 

Suitings, Ply 
28 2.07 50x48 18.50/2 14/2 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 141 







Ends and 






Width 


Yards 


picks ' 


Warp 


Filling 


inches. 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 




Checks and Plaids 




25 


5.00 


44x38 


14s 


14s 


25 


6.00 


38x34 


14s 


14s 


26 


4.90 


46x36 


17.50s 


16.50s 


27 


3.95 


52x36 


16s 


16s 


27 


4.50 


44x44 


14s 


14s 


27 


4.57 


46x39 


14s 


14s 


27i/ 2 


4.65 


45x33 


12s 


14s 


28 


4.00 


40x40 


12s 


13s 


30 


3.57 


52x48 


16s 


16s 


38 


6.00 


38x34 


15s 


15s 


Flannelets, 


Outing's, and Domets 




27. 


2.60 


74x48 


21.50s 


6.50s 


27 


3.99 


64x46 


26.50s 


9.75s 


27 


4.25 


48x40 


23s 


12.50s 


27 


4.45 


56x50 


26s 


12.50s 


27 


4.50 


48x50 


30s 


lis 


27 


4.50 


81x48 


25s 


15s 


27 


5.00 


44x40 


20s 


12s 


27 


5.00 


81x48 


25s 


19.50s 


28 


2.47 


88x54 


14s 


11.20s 


28 


3.30 


78x48 


21.50s 


9.75s 


28 


3.75 


76x48 


21.50s 


12.50s 


28 


4.00 


78x48 


25s 


12.50s 


28 


4.15 


48x48 


22s 


lis 


28 


4.75 


47x41 


19s 


12s 


28 


5.00 


44x44 


20s 


14s 


29 


2.73 


67x42 


22s 


8.10s 


29 


3.50 


67x44 


22s 


9.75s 


30 


2.00 


72x48 


21.50s 


5.50s 


30 


2.75 


73x52 


21.50s 


7.80s 


30 


3.25 


73x52 


21.50s 


11.75s 



142 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 







Ends and 






Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling: 


in inches. 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 


Flannelets, 


Outings and Domets (Continued) 


30 


4.15 


55x52 


21.50s 


14.50s 


31 


2.25 


75x46 


22s 


5.95s 


31 


2.73 


64x46 


22s 


8.25s 


32 


1.43 


71x42 


19s 


3.50s 


32 


2.90 


69x52 


21.50s 


9.75s 


32 


3.25 


72x60 


25s 


13.50s 


35i/ 2 


2.18 


64x44 


17s 


6.80s 


36 


1.50 


40x36 


19s 


2.90s 


36 


2.00 


56x40 


19s 


5.50s 


36 


2.20 


48x44 


13.60s 


7s 


36 


2.50 


41x44 


21.50s 


8.50s 


36 


3.00 


59x48 


21.50s 


11.80s 


36 


3.50 


63x48 


21.50s 


15s 


36 


3.85 


54x48 


25s 


15.50s 


39 


3.50 


48x42 


26.50s 


11.15s 


40 


2.01 


64x46 


22s 


7s 


40 


2.30 


48x44 


13.60s 


10s 


40 


3.06 


63x40 


22s 


12.15s 


40 


4.02 


42x44 


26.50s 


13.75s 


40 


5.60 


24x24 


26.50s 


26.50s 


42 


2.16 


46x44 


22s 


8.50s 


42 


4.50 


45x38 


22s 


19s 


42% 


1.78 


72x42 


19s 


5.90s 


421/2 


2.25 


49x42 


22s 


7s 


44% 


3.01 


32x36 


22s 


8.75s 


46 


2.78 


56x30 
Cretonnes 


26.50s 


7.45s 


241/2 


6.45 


64x49 


28s 


18s 


27 


3.85 


62x51 


17s 


19s 


273/ 4 


7.14 


60x52 


28s 


26s 


28 


7.00 


62x62 


31s 


42s 


30 


2.56 


111x55 


19s 


19s 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 143 







Ends and 






Width 


Yards 


picks 


Warp 


Filling 


in inches. 


per lb. 


per inch. 


yarn. 


yarn. 




Cretonnes (Continued) 




30 


3.33 


62x59 


17s 


19s 


30 


3.86 


102x51 


24s 


30s 


31V2 


3.06 


62x62 


16s 


21s 


33 


2.82 


111x51 


24s 


19s 


35i/ 2 


2.07 


45x62 


16s 


9s 


43 


2.12 


61x62 


17s 


17s 


471/4 


1.28 


71x33 


17s 


5s 


471/4 


2.43 


59x103 


24s 


29s 


63 


1.50 


59x62 


17s 


17s 


71 


1.32 


59x62 


17s 


17s 




Table Damask 






54 


1.77 


58x72 


20s 


17s 


56 


1.67 


58x72 


20s 


17s 


58 


2.12 


78x76 


30s 


22s 


58 


1.90 


56x82 


19s 


20s 


59 


1.63 


62x84 


18s 


16s 


60 


1.68 


60x84 


20s 


20s 


64 


1.92 


78x76 


30s 


22s 


70 


1.05 


60x72 


20s 


20s 


72 


1.17 


63x68 


15s 


16s 


72 


1.74 


78x76 


30s 


22s 




Ginghams and Chambrays 




241/2 


7.15 


64x68 


22s 


30s 


26 


6.23 


68x48 


22s 


30s 


26 


6.40 


76x64 


31s 


33s 


26 


7.90 


62x54 


26s 


34s 


26i/ 2 


6.50 


56x50 


25s ' 


25s 


26i/ 2 


6.50 


68x52 


25s 


30s 


26i/ 2 


6.50 


72x64 


30s 


40s 


26V2 


6.74 


76x52 


32s 


40s 


261/2 


6.80 


66x52 


27s 


40s 



144 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 



Width 
in inches. 



Yards 
per lb. 



Ends and 

picks 
per inch. 



Warp 

yarn. 



Filling 
yarn. 



Ginghams and Chambrays (Continued) 

261/2 7-00 70x54 28s 37s 

261/9 7.14 72x64 30s 40s 

27 ' 6.40 54x52 25s 25s 

27 6.50 60x56 25s 35s 

27 6.50 68x52 25s 30s 

27 6.50 74x64 35s 35s 

27 6.80 64x54 25s 35s 

31i/ 2 5.25 68x50 22s 30s 

32 5.05 70x44 22s 25i/ 2 s 

32 5.50 64x52 25s 35s 

32 5.71 66x54 27s 40s 

32 5.85 72x58 31s 33s 

32 6.12 66x54 27s 40s 

32 6.40 68x52 30s 36s 



26 
31 

31% 
32 



27 
27 
27 

27% 



Fine Ginghams 

8.00 64x68 32s 50s 

7.34 84x82 50s 56s 

7.91 86x81 50s 50s 

6.40 88x84 40s 50s 

Fancy Ginghams. 

6.37 55x52 26s 26s 

6.37 57x61 30s-16/2 28s-30s 

6.70 72x52 45s-40/2 30/2-40/2 

6.58 76x49 40s-40/2 40/2-36/2 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 145 



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146 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 



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CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 147 



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TEXTILE MA TE RIALS 
& YARN NUMBERING 



149 



TEXTILE MATERIALS AND YARN 
NUMBERING 



Textile fibers may be divided into vegetable 
fibers, animal fibers, and mineral fibers. A fourth 
division might be made of re-worked fibers. 

Vegetable Fibers include cotton, jute, flax, 
hemp, ramie, manila, sisal, sunn, New Zea- 
land flax, etc. Artificial silk and paper are not, 
strictly speaking, vegetable fibers but are made of 
vegetable substances and hence usually included in 
this class. 

Animal Fibers include wool, silk, and hair; 
the main hairs used being mohair, alpaca, cash- 
mere, and camel's hair. 

Mineral Fibers include asbestos, finely spun 
glass, slag wool, and the metal threads used in 
tinsel and other yarns. 

Re-Worked Fibers include wool noils, mungo, 
shoddy, extract, and flocks ; also cotton waste. 

The following table will be found of use as 
showing the systems used in numbering yarns of 
different materials and the method of obtaining 
equivalent counts in the cotton-yarn numbering 
system. 



152 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 



Yarn Numbering Systems and Equivalents 



System 

Cotton 
Spun silk 
Thown silk 
Raw silk 
Artificial silk 
Worsted 
Woolen, run 
Woolen, cut 
Linen wet-spun 
Flax dry-spun 

Jute 

Metric 
French 

half- metric 



Yarn count is number of: 

840-yard hanks in pound. 
840-yard hanks in pound. 
Drams to 1,000 yards. 
Deniers to 450 meters. 
Deniers to 450 meters. 
560-yard hanks in pound. 
1600-yard runs in pound. 
300-yard cuts in pound. 
300-yard leas in pound. 
Lbs. to 14,400-yard "spyndle" 

Lbs. to 14,400-yard "spyndle" 

1,000 meters per kilogram. 

1,000 meters per y 2 kilogram. 



Cotton yarn 
equivalent: 
X 1. 
X 1. 

304.76 Tf- drams. 
5315 -f- deniers. 
5315 -r- deniers. 
X 2/3. 
X 1-905. 
X -357. 
X -357. 

17.14 -=- lbs. per 

spyndle. 

17.14 -=- lbs. per 

spyndle. 

X 1.18. . 

X -59. 



Mohair and alpaca are numbered the same as 
worsted, and hemp is numbered the same as wet- 
spun linen yarn. 

In the leading textile industries — cotton, wool, 
and silk — there is an increasing trend towards the 
production of mixed goods, so that these indus- 
tries are yearly becoming more interdependent. 
The cotton industry, for instance, has become a 
strong competitor of the silk industry, as cotton 
mills produce large amounts of cotton-back satins 
and dominate the trade in many lines of silk-and- 
cotton fancies. Cotton yarns are used in making 
mixed goods in practically every branch of the 
textile industry but the outside yarns of most in- 
terest to the cotton weaver are those of silk and 
artificial silk. After stating some facts in regard 
to raw cotton and cotton yarn, such as the "cotton 
weaver should know, we will therefore close with 
a brief description of the processes involved in 
making silk and artificial silk yarns. 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 153 

RAW COTTON 

Cotton is the main textile fiber of the world and 
its mill consumption about equals that of all other 
textile fibers combined. It is a comparatively new 
fiber, as compared with wool or flax, and the mod- 
ern cotton-manufacturing industry may be said 
to date from the invention of the cotton gin by 
Elias Whitney in 1793. The world's total crop 
averages around 22,000,000 bales, of 500 pounds 
each, and the demand is increasing faster than 
the supply, particularly in regard to "staple" cot- 
tons. The United States produces about 60% of 
the total and is followed by India. China, Egypt, 
Russia, and Brazil are the only other cotton-pro- 
ducing countries of importance. 

The United States is the largest consumer of 
cotton and in 1919 was followed by the United 
Kingdom, Japan, India, and China. In normal 
times Germany, Russia, France, Austria, and Italy 
are also large consumers. 

The cottons of interest to the American spin- 
ner and weaver may be enumerated as follows : 

Short-staple Uplands. This type constitutes the 
bulk of the American crop and consists of cotton 
between 7/8 and 1 1/16 inches in length. It is 
used only for coarse and medium counts, rarely 
for ringspun yarns much above 40s, but the bulk 
of the cotton goods of the world are made of yarns 
under this number,. Using mules, the English 
spin short-staple Uplands to 50s or slightly 
above. Texas, Georgia, South Carolina, Missis- 
sippi, Arkansas, and North Carolina are the lead- 
ing producers, 

Long-staple Uplands. American "staple" cot- 
ton of li/ 8 to 1% inches (a trifle of "extra" or 



154 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

"fancy" staple attaining lengths up to 1% inches) 
is of the same species as the short-staple type 
though it is possible that some of the longest have 
been slightly crossed with Sea Island. The culti- 
vation of these long-staple varieties (known as 
Peelers, Benders, Allanseed, etc.) is mainly con- 
fined to the Mississippi delta and the lowlands of 
Louisiana. 

Sea Islands. The longest, finest, silkiest, and 
most costly of all cottons is grown on islands off 
the coast of South Carolina but the total amounts 
to only a few thousand bales. Some of this cot- 
ton exceeds 2 inches in length. Georgia and Flor- 
ida produce larger amounts of commercial Sea 
Island, but of an inferior type, the staple ranging 
from 1% inches upward. The total Sea Island 
crop rarely exceeds 100,000 bales and is now much 
less. 

American-Egyptians. In recent years efforts 
have been made to grow Egyptian cotton in the 
United States and these have met with success in 
lower California and Arizona. The crop now 
amounts, to about 50,000 bales and is increasing. 
By careful seed selection the staple has been im- 
proved until it averages a full 1% inches. This 
cotton is most largely used for tire fabrics. 

Egyptians. There are several varieties of 
Egyptian cotton. Formerly the brown-tinged 
Mitafifi was the main type but this has been super- 
seded by the longer and whiter Sakelaridis (often 
called Sakel) . Egypt is the main producer of 
long-staple cotton although its total crop is rarely 
over 1,500,000 bales (of equivalent 500 lbs.) The 
United Kingdom is the largest consumer of Egyp- 
tian cotton and exceeds all other countries in the 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 155 

production of fine counts. American imports of 
Egyptian cotton are mainly for use in coarse 
yarns for tire fabrics. 

Indian and Chinese Cottons. These cottons are 
mainly harsh and of short staple. There is a small 
import for use in blankets and cheap colored cot- 
tons. 

Starting with one-inch cotton as suitable for 
20s warp, we can figure that every sixteenth of an 
inch addition to the length of the staple increases 
the spinning range by about ten counts. The fol- 
lowing may be taken as indicative of the normal 
practice in the United States. 

Normal Usage of Raw Cottons by American 
Spinners 

Will Spin to Following 
Cotton Staple, Warp Filling 

Inches. Counts. Counts. Type of Cotton. 



% to 15/ 


16 10s 


15s 


Low-grade Uplands. 


1 


20s 


30s 


Uplands. 


1 1/16 


30s 


40s 


Uplands. 


1% 


40s 


50s 


Rivers, Creeks. 


1 3/16 


50s 


60s 


Benders. 


1*4 


60s 


70s 


Peelers, Mitafifi. 


1 5/16 


70s 


80s 


Peelers, Mitafifi. 


1% 


80s 


90s 


Peelers, Mitafifi, low 
Sea Islands. 


1 7/16 


90s 


100s 


Allanseed, Mitafifi, 
low Sea Islands. 


iy 2 


100s 


120s 


Allenseed, Sakel, Sea 
Island. 


i% 


120s 


150s 


Sakel, Sea Island. 


i% 


140s 


180s 


Sakel, Sea Island. 


2 


200s 


250s 


Selected Sea Island. 


2*4 


250s 


300s 


Best Sea Island. 



156 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

The above is given only as an indication for the 
spinning limit of cotton depends, not alone on the 
staple, but also on the grade and the type of cot- 
ton. The same cotton can be spun to finer counts 
on the mule than on the ring frame; and the sta- 
ple and grade of cotton used has to be varied ac- 
cording to the perfection of yarn desired. 

COTTON YARN 

Cotton yarn is numbered according to the num- 
ber of 840-yard hanks that weigh one pound. Thus 
No. 10 measures 8,400 yards to the pound and 
No. 100 measures 84,000 yards to the pound. It is 
claimed that cotton has been spun to No. 2000; 
this would measure 1,680,000 yards or 318 miles 
to the pound. Commercially cotton is rarely spun 
to over No. 300, and No. 260, used in the lace in- 
dustry, is the finest yarn imported. A few Amer- 
ican mills spin up to 200s for their own use but 
normally there is little made here above 100s warp 
or 120s filling. 



Table of Lengths for Cotton Yarns 



Cotton 


Yards per 


Cotton 


Yards per 


Cotton 


Yards per 


Counts 


Pound 


Counts 


Pound 


Counts 


Pound 


% 


420 


35 


29,400 


79 


66,360 


i 


840 


36 


30,240 


80 


67,200 


i% 


1,260 


37 


31,080 


82 


68.880 


2 


1,680 


38 


31,920 


84 


70,560 


2% 


2,100 


39 


32,760 


86 


72,240 


3 


2,520 


40 


33,360 


88 


73,920 


3V 2 


2,940 


41 


34,440 


90 


75,600 


4 


3,360 


42 


35,280 


92 


77,280 


4V 2 


3,780 


43 


36,120 


94 


78,960 


5 


4,200 


44 


36,960 


96 


80,640 


5% 


4,620 


45 


37,800 


98 


82,320 


6 


5,040 


46 


38,640 


100 


84,000 


6Y2 


5,460 


47 


39,480 


105 


88,200 


7 


5,880 


48 


40,320 


110 


92,400 


7% 


6,300 


49 


41,160 


115 


96,600 


8 


6,720 


50 


42,000 


120 


100,800 


8y 2 


7,140 


51 


42,840 


125 


105,000 


9 


7,560 


52 


43,680 


130 


109,200 


9% 


7,980 


53 


44,520 


135 


113,400 


10 


8,400 


54 


45,360 


140 


117,600 


11 


9,240 


55 


46,200 


145 


121,800 


12 


10,080 


56 


47,040 


150 


126,000 


13 


10,920 


57 


47,880 


155 


130,200 


14 


11,760 


58 


48,720 


160 


134,400 


15 


12,600 


59 


49,560 


165 


138,600 


16 


13,440 


60 


50,400 


170 


142,800 


17 


14,280 


61 


51,240 


175 


147,000 


18 


15,120 


62 


52,080 


180 


151,200 


19 


15,960 


63 


52,920 


185 


155,400 


20 


16,800 


64 


53,760 


190 


159,600 


21 


17,640 


65 


54,600 


195 


163,800 


22 


18,480 


66 


55,440 


200 


168,000 


23 


19,320 


67 


56,280 


205 


172,200 


24 


20,160 


68 


57,120 


210 


176,400 


25 


21,000 


69 


57,960 


215 


180,600 


26 


21,840 


70 


58,800 


220 


184,800 


27 


22,680 


71 


59,640 


225 


189,000 


28 


23,520 


72 


60,480 


230 


193,200 


29 


24,360 


73 


61,320 


235 


197,400 


30 


25,200 


74 


62,160 


240 


201,600 


31 


26,040 


75 


63,000 


245 


205,800 


32 


26,880 


76 


63,840 


250 


210,000 


33 


27,720 


77 


64,680 


255 


214,200 


34 


28,560 


78 


65,520 ! 


260 


218,400 



158 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

Cotton yarn may be either carded or combed. 
Some yarns are double carded, at a cost about in- 
termediate between ordinary carded and ordinary 
combed. Extreme fine counts, such as 250s, are 
double combed. Ordinarily the finer the yarn the 
higher the percentage of waste. In the manufac- 
ture of coarse carded yarns for osnaburgs or the 
lower grades of duck the waste may be under 
12% ; for sheetings it is ordinarily about 15% 
and for print cloths about 18%. Ordinary combed 
yarns average around 30% waste. In the case of 
double-combed yarns the waste may be as much 
as 40%. These percentages are based on the gross 
weight of the raw cotton, and in figuring costs 
they are reduced by reason of the return from 
waste sold. In making sheeting yarns, for in- 
stance the waste is usually about 15% of the quan- 
tity, but only 12% of the value, of the cotton used. 

American yarns are usually ring spun and ring 
twisted. English yarns are usually mule spun and 
ring twisted, but where ply yarns of superior 
quality are required for fine lace work there is 
used a flyer twister. The flyer twister with its 
slower and more positive speed is essential for 
perfection in twisting. 

Yarns may be unbleached, bleached, dyed, print- 
ed, or colored. The term "colored" includes ply 
yarns made of a gray and a colored yarn. Single 
yarns spun with one gray and one dyed roving are 
known as "mock twist" yarns and are largely used 
as filling in denims. 

Unprocessed yarns are known as "plain" yarns 
in contradistinction to yarns finished by gassing, 
mercerizing, polishing, or other process. 

In gassing, the yarn is passed one or more times 
through the blue part of the flame from a Bunsen 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 159 

gas burner, the speed being regulated so that the 
fuzz of projecting fibers which is found on all 
plain yarns is burned off without the yarn itself 
catching fire. Gassed yarn shows up smoother, 
rounder, and brighter though slightly darker in 
shade. An incidental but important result is that 
the yarn, by reason of the removal of the fuzz, 
weighs less per yard and is therefore raised to 
a higher count; to make 100/2 for instance it is 
necessary to spin to only about 94s. Owing to 
the danger of tendering, cotton yarns are rarely 
gassed in the single. 

In mercerizing, the yarn is subjected to the 
action of an alkali such as caustic soda and kept 
under tension during the process. The object of 
mercerization is to obtain a lustrous silk-like fin- 
ish; incidentally the yarn is increased in strength 
and in affinity for dyestuffs. The caustic soda 
appears to be absorbed by the cotton fiber which 
swells and thereby straightens out from its nor- 
mal twisted-ribbon form; if the tendency to con- 
tract in length is prevented, the fiber assumes an 
appearance more cylindrical and hairlike, and the 
smoother and more cylindrical shape makes it a 
better light reflector and therefore more lustrous. 

Not only sewing thread but large amounts of 
cotton yarn are finished by polishing and used in 
making shoe laces, braids, "luster linings," and 
upholstery fabrics (including imitation hair- 
cloth) . 

About three-fourths of the yarns spun in the 
United States are used in the mills where spun. 
The knitting industry is the largest outlet for 
those spun for the market. Cotton yarns are also 
bought for use in the lace, lace-curtain, embroid- 
ery, and braid industries ; and for weaving mixed 



160 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

goods in silk, mohair, or wool mills; in addition 
to those required by cotton weaving mills which, 
either because they are not equipped with spin- 
dles or because they require special counts or qual- 
ities, buy outside. Imports of cotton yarn are 
negligible and consist mainly of fine two-ply yarns 
mulespun of Egyptian cotton. 

SILK 

Silk is the product of the silk worm or cater- 
pillar. The domesticated worm is fed on mul- 
berry leaves stripped from the trees. After feed- 
ing for about a month the worm spins its cocoon 
<5r silken envelope; the silk fluid is exuded from 
the worm's underlip in two strands, called 
"brins," which immediately unite to form the 
"bave" or silk filament. After completely envel- 
oping itself the worm turns to a chrysalis and 
this in turn, if not killed, becomes a moth which 
breaks its way out of one end of the cocoon. The 
female moth lays her eggs and dies shortly there- 
after. The cycle from birth to death, including 
all transformations, is less than 60 days, and the 
eggs are kept in cold storage until time for the 
next crop. Pierced cocoons, from which the 
moths -have emerged, cannot be reeled because of 
the broken filaments, so only about 2 per cent of 
the chrysalides are allowed to develop into moths, 
the remainder are killed in the cocoon, usually by 
stifling in hot, dry air. 

Tussah silks, used in the production of goods 
of rough appearance, are produced by wild (i. e. 
undomesticated) silk worms that feed on the 
leaves of the oak and other trees. 

The main silk-producing countries are Japan, 
China, and Italy. The United States is the larg- 
est manufacturer of silk but imports all of its 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 161 

raw material. Although produced by cheap labor, 
silk is the most costly of all fibers because of the 
great amount of time and care involved in raising 
the worm and reeling the silk. Because of the eco- 
nomic difficulty, all efforts to raise silk in the 
United States have proved failures. 

There are two general classes of silk: (1) Raw, 
or reeled, silk, from which is made thrown-silk 
yarn; and (2) Waste silk, from which is made 
spun-silk yarn. 

Raw Silk 

Raw Silk is a term used specifically to denote 
silk in skeins, as reeled from the cocoon or re- 
reeled. Its meaning is therefore more circum- 
scribed than that of such terms as raw cotton or 
raw wool since a large proportion of the silk sup- 
ply of the world, known as silk waste, is un- 
reelable. 

Raw silk is the finest, most elastic, and most 
durable of all textile fibers. It is specially prized 
for its brilliant luster. 

Reeling is a simple but tedious process, as it 
requires the product of from 2,500 to 3,000 silk- 
worms to produce a pound of raw silk. 

Raw silks are known according to place of 
origin as Kansai, Shinshiu, Canton, Shanghai, 
etc., and classified into Special Grand Extra, Ex- 
tra Extra A, Extra Extra B, Best Extra, Extra, 
Best No. 1, etc. The system of classification is 
very unsatisfactory as the "best extra" of one 
chop (reeler's trademark) may not be as good as 
the "extra" of another chop, and the classifica- 
tions by various reelers vary in quality from sea- 
son to season. 

Raw silk is numbered according to the weight 
in deniers of a skein 450 meters in length. A de- 



162 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

nier is 5 centigrams, equivalent to 0.771618 grain, 
and 450 meters is equivalent to 492.125 yards; 
therefore the constant 4,464,528 divided by the 
denierage will give the yards per pound. As this 
system is based on the weight of an arbitrary 
fixed length, the finer the silk the smaller is the 
count; this is the reverse of the system used in 
numbering yarns of cotton or wool. 

The silk filament, as spun by the worm, is too 
attenuated to stand much strain, so in reeling the 
filaments from 3 to 12 cocoons are united to form 
the raw-silk thread of commerce. The 13/15 
denier silk, generally reeled from 5 or 6 cocoons, 
is usually taken as the standard count, and is the 
raw silk in largest demand for throwing and dye- 
ing. Owing to the variation in size of different 
cocoon filaments, and of the same filament at dif- 
ferent portions of its length, it is impossible to 
make the combined raw-silk thread of an exact 
size ; in specifying the number, therefore, the lim- 
its are usually given 2 denier apart. 13/15 denier 
raw silk means that 450 meters weighs between 
13 and 15 denier, the average is 14 and if the con- 
stant 4,464,528 be divided by 14 we get 318,895 
as equivalent yards per pound, equal to No. 380 
cotton yarn. Usual sizes of raw silk are 8/10 to 
28/30 deniers (say within the extreme limits of 
558,066 to 148,818 yards to the pound, equivalent 
to cotton counts of No. 664 to No. 177) ; the pro- 
duction of sizes finer or coarser is very limited. 

Some silk goods are woven of raw silk in the 
gum ; these fabrics, after boiling out of the gum 
and bleaching, have a softness and brilliancy un- 
attainable in cloths made of thrown-silk yarns. 
The famous "habutae" of Japan is a striking illus- 
tration of such work, but at least a fourth of 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 163 

American raw silk imports is woven in the gum, 
without any throwing. 

Thrown Silk 

Thrown Silk may be denned as yarn made 
from raw silk, that is, from silk reeled from the 
cocoon. Raw silk consists of several parallel co- 
coon filaments held together by the natural gum 
only. The proportion of gum varies but a pound 
(16 ounces) of raw silk usually contains 3 to 4 
ounces of gum. Silk cannot be boiled off, dyed 
and weighted, and remain in workable condition. 
If the silk is to be skein dyed it must therefore 
first be thrown into yarn. 

Silk "throwing" (from the Saxon "thrawan", 
to twist) is the technical term used for the pro- 
cesses involved in making yarn from raw silk. As 
raw silk is already in the form of a continuous 
strand, the only processes involved are soaking 
(to soften the gum) , winding, doubling, spinning 
(without drafting) , and reeling. Raw silk is the 
single and thrown silk is the ply yarn. Cotton 
yarns, doubled, are known as 2-ply warp, 3-ply 
filling, etc., whereas thrown silk yarns are simi- 
larly designated as 2-thread organzine, 3-thread 
tram, etc. 

Organzine (often called "organ"), used for 
warp, is made by doubling two or more threads 
which have first been well twisted in the single, 
and then giving them a firm twisting in the oppo- 
site direction. 

Tram, used for filling, is made by combining 
two or more threads and then twisting them to- 
gether with a slack twist. Strength is not as 
essential as it is in the warp, and the slack twisted 
filling permits a more brilliant finish. 



164 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

In the United States, as in England, thrown silk 
is usually numbered according to the weight in 
drams of 1,000 yards. As there are 16 drams to 
the ounce and 16 ounces to the pound, this is 
equivalent to the weight in pounds of 256,000 
yards. In Continental Europe thrown silk is num- 
bered the same as raw silk. 

To reduce denier counts to dram counts, divide 
the deniers by 17.44. Thus 2-thread organ of 
13/15 deniers would be 14 X 2 = 28^-17.44 = 
1.60 drams; and 4-thread tram of 16/18 deniers 
would be 17 X 4 = 68 -=- 17.44 = 3.90 drams. Or- 
ganzine is usually between 1.50 and 2.50 drams, 
and tram between 1.70 and 5.10 drams. For the 
hosiery industry silk is thrown into yarn as coarse 
as 10 drams. 

The standard tram twist is about 5 turns to 
the inch; the standard organzine twist is stated 
as 14/16 turns to the inch, meaning 14 turns in 
the singles and 16 turns in the ply. Crepe yarns 
are much harder twisted. Some Georgette crepe 
yarns contain as high as 100 turns per inch. The 
cost of throwing Georgette crepe yarn is more 
than double the cost of throwing organzine, and 
about four times the cost of throwing tram. 

Silk Waste 

Silk Waste is a term used to include all silk 
other than that reeled from the cocoon. It is only 
to a small extent the by-product of manufacture 
and the majority is silk that has never been used 
but which, from one cause or another, was found 
unreelable. 

Only about half of the silk in a good cocoon is 
reelable, as the outer layers are usually coarse, 
uneven, and broken, while the extreme inner lay- 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 165 

ers, spun as the worm is nearing exhaustion of 
its supply, are too attenuated to stand the strain 
of reeling. Many wild silks are either unreelable 
or more profitably worked as waste. Cocoons 
from which the moths have emerged, necessarily 
breaking the filaments in their exit, are known as 
"pierced cocoons," and classed among the best of 
"waste silks." Of the silk wastes that are the by- 
product of manufacture the most important are 
the exhausted noils from the last dressing or 
combing process. 

Silk waste is imported from China, Japan, and 
Italy. 

Spun Silk 

Spun Silk is made from silk waste. The waste 
is first degummed, opened up and laoped, and 
then combed on a series of three or more "dress- 
ing machines." The first "drafts" or combed 
lengths from the dressing machines are prepared, 
on machines similar to those used in the prelimi- 
nary manufacture of flax and other long fibers, 
and then spun into yarn. The noil or shorter 
fibers discarded in combing are carded and spun 
into yarn on machines very similar to those used 
in the cotton industry. 

The consumption of spun silk is steadily grow- 
ing, since such yarns are cheaper than thrown 
silk and for many purposes fully as acceptable. 
Spun silk finds its main use as pile yarn in the 
manufacture of silk velvets (usually made with a 
cotton back) , but is employed in many other lines, 
particularly in tissues to be piece-dyed or printed. 
Large amounts are used in cotton and wool mills 
in the production of mixed goods. 

There are two general systems for numbering 



166 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

spun silk. In the metric system, used on the 
Continent, the count indicates the number of 
thousand meters per kilogram, and is based on the 
singles. In the English system, which is more 
generally employed in this country, the count indi- 
cates the number of 840-yard hanks to the pound. 
The latter is similar to cotton-yarn numbering so 
far as single yarn is concerned, but is different for 
ply yarn, where cotton is based on the single and 
spun silk on the finished yarn. For instance 100/1 
cotton or spun silk yarn measures 84,000 yards to 
the pound; 100/2 cotton yarn, however, consists 
of two ends of 100s and measures only 42,000 
yards to the pound whereas 100/2 spun silk con- 
sists of two ends of 200s and so measures 84,000 
yards to the pound. 

ARTIFICIAL SILK 

There are three principal types of artificial silk. 
The type mainly produced in the United States 
and England is known as viscose silk, or wood- 
silk, and is made from woodpulp. Nitro-cellulose 
silks and cupra-ammonium silks are produced 
mainly in Belgium, France, and Germany, and are 
made from cotton waste or linters. 

The general principle of the apparatus used in 
"spinning" artificial silk is simple, but there are 
many different designs which are continually be- 
ing improved upon. The woodpulp or cotton 
waste, after being chemically treated and reduced 
to a pasty mass of the required consistency, is in- 
troduced into the spinning apparatus, a stout res- 
ervoir, and is then forced therefrom, by continu- 
ous air pressure, through a series of tubes termi- 
nating in glass or platinum nozzles with capillary 
openings varying, according to the size of the fila- 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 167 

ments desired, from one three-hundreds to one 
fiftieth of an inch. As the individual filaments, 
usually 5 to 8 deniers in size, are too fine for com- 
mercial use, 12 to 32 filaments are always com- 
bined to form the "single" of artificial silk yarn. 
Artificial silk is numbered according to the raw 
silk system, by the weight in deniers (0.05 gram) 
of a standard length of 450 meters. The constant 
5,315 divided by the denierage gives the equiva- 
lent cotton counts. The domestic viscose silk is 
made mainly into 150 and 300 deniers, equivalent 
to No. 35.4 and No. 17.7 cotton counts. Some 
nitro-cellulose Chardonnet silks are imported as 
fine as 60 deniers, equivalent to No. 88.6 cotton 
count. 

Artificial silks are more lustrous than real silk 
but are heavier, weaker, less elastic, and more dif- 
ficult to manipulate. The price per pound is less 
than that of natural silk, though this is to a small 
extent offset by the fact that the specific gravity 
of artificial silk is about 10 to 20 per cent greater. 
One of the chief drawbacks to its use in cloths has 
been its inability to withstand moisture, but some 
varieties, even of woodsilk, have now been per- 
fected to the extent that they can be used in wash 
goods. The demand for artificial silk is steadily 
increasing and there is apparently no limit to its 
possibilities. It is not impossible that in time the 
producton of artificial silk may surpass that of 
natural slk. 



168 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

ARTIFICIAL HORSEHAIR 

Artificial horsehair differs from artificial silk 
in that it is coarser and stiffer. It also differs in 
the fact that it is produced and used in coarse sin- 
gle filaments and not, as in the case of artificial 
silk in fine filaments which must be combined be- 
fore use. Artificial horsehair comes only in very 
coarse sizes, mainly the 300 and 600 deniers, 
equivalent to No. 17.7 and No. 8.9 cotton counts. 



APPENDIX 



169 



CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 171 
U. S. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 

Linear Measures 

12 inches (in.) =1 foot (ft.) 

3 feet = 1 yard (yd.) 
1,760 yards = 1 mile. 

Square Measures 

144 square inches 

(sq. in) = 1 square foot (sq. ft.) 
9 square feet = 1 square yard (sq. yd.) 

4,840 square yards = 1 acre. 

3,097,600 square yards = 1 square mile. 

Cubic Measures 

1,728 cubic inches (cu. in.) = 1 cubic foot (cu. ft.) 
27 cubic feet = 1 cubic yard. 

Weight Measures 

16 drams (dr.) =1 ounce (oz.) 

16 ounces = 1 pound. 

437% grains = 1 ounce. 

7,000 grains = 1 pound. 

2,000 pounds = 1 ton. 

2,240 pounds = 1 long ton. 

Liquid Measures 

2 pints (pt.) = 1 quart (qt.) 

4 quarts = 1 gallon (gal.) 
31 V 2 gallons = 1 barrel (bbl.) 

(A gallon contains 231 cubic inches.) 

Dry Measures 

2 pints (pt.) =1 quart (qt.) 

8 quarts = 1 peck (pk.) 

4 pecks = 1 bushel (bu.) 

(A bushel contains 2,150.4 cubic inches.) 

Measures of Time 

60 seconds (sec.) = 1 minute (min.) 

60 minutes = 1 hour (hr.) 

24 hours = 1 day. 

365 days = 1 year. 



172 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 

METRIC EQUIVALENTS 

1 centimeter (cm.) = 0.3937 inch. 

1 meter (m) = 100 cm. = 39.37 inches = 1.0936 yds. 

1 square centimeter (sq. cm.) = 0.155 square inches. 

1 square meter = 1.196 square yards. 

1 cubic centimeter (c. c.) = 0.061 cubic inch. 

1 cubic meter = 1.3079 cubic yards. 

1 liter = 1.0567 liquid quarts. 

1 kilogram (kilo, or kg.) = 2.2046 pounds. 

1 metric ton (1,000 kilo.) =2204.6 pounds. 

1 inch = 2.540 centimeters. 

1 yard = 0.9144 meter. 

1 square inch = 6.452 square centimeters. 

1 square yard = 0.8361 square meter. 

1 cubic inch = 16.387 cubic centimeters. 

1 cubic yard = 0.7646 cubic meter. 

1 liquid quart i =0.9463 liter. 

1 pound = 0.4536 kilogram. 

1 short ton (2,000 lbs.) = 0.9072 metric ton. 

1 long ton (2,240 lbs.) = 1.0160 metric tons. 

1 kilo per 100 square meters = 54.25 sq. yds. per pound. 
1 square yard per pound = 54.25 kilos per 100 sq. m. 
1 thread per square inch = 0.19685 threads per square 

of 5 mm. side. 
1 thread per sq. of 5 mm. side = 5.08 threads per sq. in. 
1 thread per square inch = 0.23622 threads per square 

1 of 6 mm. side. 

1 thread per sq. of 6 mm. side = 4.23334 threads per sq. in. 

(NOTE — In the Spanish, Cuban, and Philippine tariffs, 
cloth constructions are stated in terms of threads per 
square of 6 millimeters side; in most other countries using 
metric system in terms of threads per square of 5 mm. 
side.) 



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